Dropping the transmission: transmission jack, floor jack with adapter, or hoist (1 Viewer)

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Biscuit

Mars Rover Driver Emeritus
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I'm getting ready for my week off of work to spend working on my 40 and the transmission swap is the big project.

So my question to the Mud hive-mind is: what is the best way to support and safely lower the transmission/t-case?
1) Transmission specific jack
2) Floor jack with some sort of adapter (like this one nat made)
3) Engine hoist reaching into the cab with the hump off

I don't have any of these jacks/hoists so I will be purchasing/renting something.
 
engine hoist...


Or, chain hoist if you have a roll cage.
 
Mike, I have an old one like this if you want to use it. It's a little tippy with the t'case attached, but manageable. Easier than using a plain floor jack, I think. I don't think the ratchet strap is still attached, either. I used a loose one to tie the assy down.

image_11238.jpg
 
I'm with Mace and say hoist. Just did mine a few weeks back with a "cherry picker", by myself, and barely broke a sweat (and THAT'S saying something!) :cool: . The seats and hump come out pretty quick, and I ran it a ways down on fuel so I could just prop the tank up, and not remove it. A little awkward leaning over the foot wells, but much better than being on the ground the whole time. I also lowered the assembly onto a HF mover's dolly so I could just roll it out from under the truck (and back under when it was time).

lefty b
 
Hoist is the easiest way on a 40 IMO. I bet Spike's tranny jack would work just fine though.

A skateboard makes a good trolley too.
 
Drop Transmission

Suggest that you only use an approach that supports the transmission + transfer case from the top. Too heavy to control it all from underneath.
2 options.

1) With the boom of an engine hoist through the passenger side door, (seats removed, door off).

2) With the top off use a chain hoist attached to the ceiling of the shop. Harbor Freight differential hoist works great.

Both options with plenty of ratchet straps to fine tune the tilt.
 
I came in through the passenger door (soft doors, just pushed out of the way), and used an engine hoist leveler bolted to the top cover to level the trans/TC.

Trans installed.jpg

The picture was after I unhooked the hoist, but the whole thing slid right in.

lefty b
Trans installed.jpg
 
All the ways mentioned above work as does the brute force Popeye arms method, but the engine hoist and dedicated transmission jack involve less skill and drama.
 
I used a motorcycle jack that I have. It worked fine to get it out.

On the install I supplemented the jack with a ratchet strap tied to a 4x4 that rested across the interior on each door. It made it easier to get the right angle to smoothly get the input shaft lined up and in through the clutch assembly.
 
Hi all,

One of my buddies used a 12v 2,000lb. ATV winch hanging from the roll cage to raise and lower the SM465 & t-case in his 40.

Nat's floor jack bracket looks pretty good; the H41/42 transmission has a rounded bottom, and with the t-case attached always wants to fall-off the jack without some way to restrain it.

Good luck!

Alan
 
Thanks for the input.

I'll probably take Spike Strip up on the offer for the transmission jack.

I have a roll cage, and the spreaders between the windshield bar and B could work for the chain hoist option.
 
fj40 tranny tunnels are made for cherry pickers. i love that they expose everything! always done it with a picker
 
It is nice from above and a lot easier to install the tranny while it is hanging from above it gives u more options when u slide it home it can be tricky to get it lined up while it is sitting on a jack

Also it is nice to get the seats and fuel tank out of the rig to clean it up under there.
Preventative rust maintenance

Lots of debris can accumulate under the tank and cause rust ,And it is nice to get never seize on all those bolts. And chase a few threads and clean everything up.
I do it with a come along from the roll bar.

Sent from iPhone :cheers:
 

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