Driving without rear shaft (1 Viewer)

[Ayune]

Push button -> dash relay clicks -> actuator turns -> dash light comes on.

Sounds like you’re stuck between step 1 and 2.

Key is turned to ON position?

CDL relay is located next to passenger footwell & glove box. All wiring looks ok around there?

You can apply 12V to a specific wire at the relay to get the motor to turn if you’re in a pinch. The CDL switch itself has been known to fail since it has some electrical components on it to allow ‘latching’ of the trigger signal to 12V or ground.

 

[aharlan001]

When you say switch itself are you referring to the push button on the dash or a switch in the t-case/actuator? If you are referring to the push button shouldn't the CDL engage automatically when putting it in 4 low?

 

[Ayune]

Good point, on your ‘98 the CDL should be commanded to engage when shifting to L, unless the previous owner did the “Pin 7” mod which stops that from happening automatically. You say the wiring to the relay is undisturbed?

And yes, the dash switch (under the Hazard switch) has circuitry that converts the single-pole push button to a double-pole circuit, either powering (12V) or grounding an input wire to the relay.

The switch on the transfer case is only there to activate the dash light when the CDL mechanism moves and physically engages it.

 

[AimCOtaco]

I'd try the 9V per the 80 instructions. As long as you are energizing the actuator connector you can't hurt anything, (don't connect the 9V to the vehicle side wiring harness though).

 

[YvesNL]

Some time ago I was playing around with a HF2A transfer case for in my Land Cruiser BJ42.
I did not have the wiring out of a 100 series so I wanted to build my own system.

You can see what I did in this thread.

The actuator connector has 5 pins, the most left and most right pin are the motor connections.
If you apply 12V in the wrong direction you can bind it up, the only way I found to get it unstuck (without applying more than 12V) was to unbolt the actuator/motor.
I do not remember how the polarity goes to lock and unlock.

If you unbuilt the actuator you can also turn the gear by hand.

There is also a picture that will tell you what each sensor does.

In this post from @UZJ40 you can see the gears, tracks & wipers of the actuator.

 

[aharlan001]

Wires are undisturbed so sounds like the problem should be the switch in the car then if nothing is happening at the actuator by the passenger footwell where the actuator is...???

 

[aharlan001]

I would like to temporarily wire the hazard switch to the cdl since I know the hazard switch works I saw somewhere else that someone did this does anyone have the wiring diagram?

 

[aharlan001]

Spoiler: The CDL relay is unplugged...

Circling back to this I swapped the "transmission relay" aka cdl relay in the glove compartment thinking that since the relay isn't clicking when I push the button it might be the relay itself. In the 80 series forums this seems to be an occasional although not frequent issue. I have seen no reported failure in the 100 forum but gave it a try with no luck.

I tore part the dash again to get at the button switchboard thinking I could maybe swap the buttons as another 100 poster suggested but I saw no way to do this since the buttons are soldered to the board. I guess I could have unsoldered them but I am very unconvinced that this is the issue anyway because not only does the cdl button not work but the cdl is not activated by going into 4low. For posterity sake the part number for this little circuit board used in early 100s is 8401460130. There are a couple reports of a new board (which includes the physical switches but not the exterior buttons or housing for the hazzard switch and cdl switch) fixes the issue of the button not engaging the cdl (but doubt this would fix the issue of 4low not engaging cdl.

I did quit a bit of research in the 80 forums which suggested that the most common cause of button not engaging cdl and 4low not engaging cdl is actually a bad ground wire at the actuator which lives on the top of the cdl. Not something I'm interested in replacing since this is a mall crawler not a trail rig. None the less I crawled under to have a look and the connector is UNPLUGGED. Seriously? Now I'm wondering why??? I'm a little scared to plug it back in for fear that the cdl will lock and get stuck...

 

[aharlan001]

SOLVED! I cleaned up the connector and plugged her in. After about 20 "exercise reps" of hitting the button the cdl started working!