driveshaft vibes 4" lift

[toyota guy]

I went from a 3"ish lift to a 4" lift and now I'm experiencing some vibrations under throttle. Decided to switch to a Double Cardon shaft so i adjusted my pinion to point right at the transfer case by making my own castor correction plates and using an angle finder checked the angle difference from the pinion to the shaft, its ~1°. Im still experiencing some vibrations though, they definitely go away if i remove the front shaft although there is a very minor vibe from the back (which i also adjusted: the pinion flange and transfer case flange are in parallel). My question is, does anyone else have this problem? How bad is a slight vibration if i leave it? I don't really want to do all the work again for .5° adjustment only to find out that it makes no difference... I can live with the vibration as long as my driveshaft isn't going to explode in 6months. Im pretty picky too so its probably not as noticeable to someone else.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

I drove with a front shaft vibration for about 4 years. Maybe 10-15k miles. I’m not picky at all though, so YMMV.

If your rear flanges are both EXACTLY parallel then that could cause some minor vibes. Typically you want your pinion flange to point about a degree under the Tcase flange in the rear.

 

[Joebro91]

I went from a 3"ish lift to a 4" lift and now I'm experiencing some vibrations under throttle. Decided to switch to a Double Cardon shaft so i adjusted my pinion to point right at the transfer case by making my own castor correction plates and using an angle finder checked the angle difference from the pinion to the shaft, its ~1°. Im still experiencing some vibrations though, they definitely go away if i remove the front shaft although there is a very minor vibe from the back (which i also adjusted: the pinion flange and transfer case flange are in parallel). My question is, does anyone else have this problem? How bad is a slight vibration if i leave it? I don't really want to do all the work again for .5° adjustment only to find out that it makes no difference... I can live with the vibration as long as my driveshaft isn't going to explode in 6months. Im pretty picky too so its probably not as noticeable to someone else.

I am having this problem too, I have the castor corrector plates on the front and have recently fitted upper control arms to adjust rear pinion angle but am still finding vibration,
Did the castor plates correct any vibration?? As I'm not sure where the vibration is coming from

 

[toyota guy]

I ended up doing a part time conversion and adding manual hubs to completely solve my problem. Drives as smooth as a new car now. It’s all about the flange angles, if you have a regular driveshaft then the flanges on either end need to be perfectly parallel. How big is your lift? Are the u-joints good? For me the castor correction plates could only solve either the castor or the driveline angle, not both. After my driveline angle was set I ended up with almost 0° castor so I did a “cut and turn” on the axle which many people on here are too afraid to do.

 

[inkpot]

Have you tried changing GB PHASE on your front shaft? If it's out, make it IN. if its IN, then make it OUT.

 

[Joebro91]

I ended up doing a part time conversion and adding manual hubs to completely solve my problem. Drives as smooth as a new car now. It’s all about the flange angles, if you have a regular driveshaft then the flanges on either end need to be perfectly parallel. How big is your lift? Are the u-joints good? For me the castor correction plates could only solve either the castor or the driveline angle, not both. After my driveline angle was set I ended up with almost 0° castor so I did a “cut and turn” on the axle which many people on here are too afraid to do.

I have a 4" iron man lift,
I have manual hubs on the front, but drive with center diff spool. I havnt touched the front other than the castor plates I'm focusing on the rear for now.
I have factory driveshafts and the U-joint is in good nick. What is a "Cut and Turn" I'm getting over it the noise haha as I am picky too

 

[Joebro91]

Have you tried changing GB PHASE on your front shaft? If it's out, make it IN. if its IN, then make it OUT.

What's GB phase??

 

[baldilocks]

I ended up doing a part time conversion and adding manual hubs to completely solve my problem. Drives as smooth as a new car now. It’s all about the flange angles, if you have a regular driveshaft then the flanges on either end need to be perfectly parallel. How big is your lift? Are the u-joints good? For me the castor correction plates could only solve either the castor or the driveline angle, not both. After my driveline angle was set I ended up with almost 0° castor so I did a “cut and turn” on the axle which many people on here are too afraid to do.

How much clearance is now between tie rod and radius arms? What are the castor numbers as derived from an alignment machine?

 

[toyota guy]

How much clearance is now between tie rod and radius arms? What are the castor numbers as derived from an alignment machine?

I did not put an alignment machine on it, I’m measuring about 3°, maybe a little less. More would have been nice but I didn’t have the room. I left about 1/16” between the tie rod and the radius arms and they do not rub when wheeling. Drives much better than before. I welded on knuckle ball gussets for extra security after the work was finished.

 

[baldilocks]

I did not put an alignment machine on it, I’m measuring about 3°, maybe a little less. More would have been nice but I didn’t have the room. I left about 1/16” between the tie rod and the radius arms and they do not rub when wheeling. Drives much better than before. I welded on knuckle ball gussets for extra security after the work was finished.

Don’t rub when wheeling at the mall maybe. Mine have 3/4” and rub when flexed out and that’s with new bushings, as they wear, contact gets worse.

 

[toyota guy]

Mine doesn’t go to the mall, it’s only purpose in life is wheeling. I have all new bushings and TRE’s and have had it totally flexed out teetering on 2 wheels several times with no rub yet. Time will tell. If contact occurs I’ll probably grind 1/16” off the radius arms in that spot or make a new tie rod with more clearance.