Driveshaft/U joints (1 Viewer)

[Degnol]

I am cleaning up a set of driveshafts and after wire wheeling them I soaked them in a 5 gal bucket of Berryman's Carb and Parts Cleaner. Then I got to thinking that if there are any rubber/neoprene dust or grease seals in there, I'm fawked and need to buy 4 new u joints.
So, my dumbass question is...
Is there anything that I gould have ruined in a u joint with the parts cleaner. I know it will dissolve rubber.


Thanks,

Sofa King

 

[John Smith]

You may have disolved away the rubber wipers that keep the dirt and grit out of the needle bearings and the grease in. You should visually be able to verify this. If they are still there then I would say the joint is fine. Grease and go.

 

[Degnol]

Thanks, I can still see what appears to be a very thin piece of rubber. If I do decide to replace the u joints, how do you get that c clip off? It is wider than any of my c clip pliers will open.

Ed

 

[John Smith]

You use a flat head screw driver and a hammer and tap them off.

 

[Degnol]

Thanks, I finally figured that out, but the first one I hit wanted to spin, so I used two screwdrivers of the same length and hit them with a rubber mallet. The rest came out as you described.

Now what, in the absence of the SST? I do have a shop press, guess that is the ticket?


Thanks,

Ed

 

[trainrech]

Use a shop press to press them out and back in. Just make sure everything is in alignment. I switched one out at Moab using one of the channel pockets on my trailer for a "bench", a brass drift, and a hammer.

 

[Degnol]

Chris, so you use a drift and hammer to get enough of the cap out to stick in a vise? I haven't figured out how to use my shop press to do that. Very awkward to hold the shaft and position everything. But I can sure whack on it. I can see where the press will come in handy to replace them, though.

Got baby yet?

Ed

 

[John Smith]

Believe it or not I have had an easier time swapping out ujoints in camp using a hammer, two sockets and a rock than I have with a vise in the garage.

 

[HawkDriver]

I always use 2 4x4 blocks (easy to carry on trail) and the socket/hammer technique. The trick is that once installed you need to unbind them just a little so that they're not too tight and don't wear out too quick. So basically place the yoke between the blocks and give one tap on the other yoke in order to loosen em, then do it to all other sides.


U-joints are fun.

 

[Degnol]

So you just whack the opposite cap to force one out? I will use a vise to install the new ones. I just don't want to screw up the yokes. They sure make it difficult, which is kinda unlike Toyota, especially on a '40 which was largely repairable in the field.

Thanks, I'll get to whacking.



Ed

 

[HawkDriver]

They're really not difficult at all, just a little tricky. Be careful with the roller bearings on the install. Grease will help keep em in place.

 

[Mace]

Buy Toyota Joints.

Other ones are way too weak..

 

[65swb45]

Believe it or not I have had an easier time swapping out ujoints in camp using a hammer, two sockets and a rock than I have with a vise in the garage.

That's because your beer is in the garage too!