Driveshaft Q.. (1 Viewer)

[Tigerstripe40]

My front driveshaft was making some noise yesterday while I Was out tooling around in the desert.

I can look through the tranny tunnel, and I can see that it's wobbling around ALOT.

The D-shaft has a BIG crease in it.

I am thinking about having this driveshaft rebuilt, but having the Driveshaft builder put in a piece of 1/4" wall tubing for the shaft.

Will this make the shaft too heavy?
Or shoudl I have them build the shaft with the stock thickness tube?

 

[71-CRUISER]

I dont think you could make a d-shaft to heavy. It is so small in diameter it has relitively no rotational mass. just look at the size of some of the square shafts out there.

 

[Pin_Head]

It is over kill and you may end up breaking something more expensive, like the nose cone of the T-case. Just get another stock one. They're cheap.

 

[woody]

.250 is silly thick... .120 should be sufficient unless you rely on that shaft as a slider...course, your front t-case nose cone will likely snap off first anyways...

I had a .250 rear....holy crap....never again.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Sleeve it, easy, cheap, do it yourself..
if it's stock tubing on the driveshaft. Cut off the bad section, use the caps, leave as much as possible that's still round, press it inside this tubing, weld, done..
Dana/Spicer tube 2.75” outside diameter .083” wall thickness

 

[Tigerstripe40]

One more thing.

I know that the toyota OEM u-joints are the best way to go.

Will the minitruck u-joints work in the '4 speed' end of my driveshaft?
Or are Mini and later Cruiser u-joints different?

thanks.

 

[Tigerstripe40]

Sleeve it, easy, cheap, do it yourself..
if it's stock tubing on the driveshaft. Cut off the bad section, use the caps, leave as much as possible that's still round, press it inside this tubing, weld, done..
Dana/Spicer tube 2.75” outside diameter .083” wall thickness

No Welder.