Driveshaft issues? (1 Viewer)

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Oct 16, 2012
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Location
Flagstaff, Arizona
Hi everyone,

My baby is aging (aren't they all...), and I am developing a bit of a wobble/vibration between 30-40 MPH. Brand new tires, balanced twice; recent font axle service all the way down to the inner axle seals (Birfs never clicked at all when they were swimming in diff soup, but now suddenly they do...), and new belts.

I can't imagine that any of these things would cause the vibration as is, so today I'm getting an alignment and inspection of the driveline/suspension/steering components (I am a 1.5-2 banana kind of guy with little experience overall). My plan is to replace control arm bushings, swaybar bushings, steering dampener, etc just because it seems like it should happen eventually anyway, and probably the driveshafts.

So here it is: I called in to Slee and was told that I could replace the U-joints in the driveshafts (which was my first option), but that the slip yokes often wear out and that, if that's the case, the best route is a new driveshaft. A new shaft will run probably about twice the cost of new u-joints and balancing - does this make sense to do?

If YES, recommendations of new driveshaft suppliers would be great; if NO, feel free to forcefully re-educate me!
 
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Could be your driveshaft but you can actually take them off and check them for play or binding.

Since the front Axle was recently re-built I might suspect that the wheel bearings were not preloaded correctly. Did you do this service yourself?
 
I didn't do it myself, and the shop I used definitely doesn't specialize in Tototas. I just shook the tires around again and got shifting and clunking, almost certainly within the hubs. I had done this previously, but got nothing - I suspect I was parked on a slight angle. The alignment shop will tell me soon if it's in the hubs or if it's tie rod ends or something like that. I bet you're right about the preload.
I replaced the wheel bearings on all 4 myself about 4 years ago and they're still nice and tight on the back :)
 
Toyota
 
If you have a center lock button, pull the fount drive shaft engage the center lock go for a spin if the vibration is gone bingo you know it the fount drive shaft
 
Really, it's not Totota? I thought it had a silent T. :p

So I have now had the new tires rebalanced twice (each time they claim the last guys must have been drunk), had the whole suspension "prybar inspected" and everything seems tight, and it's now been aligned as well. Same issue. However, the shocks just went from bad to useless, and I'm wondering if this could be the source of the problem.

I went with Doestsch Tech shocks a few years back on a friend's recommendation - don't ask me why - and I've only ever had problems with them. Even having to replace smashed bushings every 4-5 months! Kind of inexplicably ridiculous. (I just learned recently that, despite what the woman on the phone told me, none but their priciest shocks are application specific - the HD's I got are still not nearly "HD" enough for the Land Cruiser)

So as soon as it dries up outside, on go the OME shocks and steering damper, and if that doesn't fix it, pulling the driveshaft is the next option, Brosky. Thanks for the input. I don't have the diff lock button but I do hear that I can put it in low then unplug the diff lock and it'll stay :D
 
If it turns out to be the drive Shaft, As it was on mine, Tom wood's Custom Drive Shafts built me a heavy Custom Duty Double Cardan front Drive shaft the same day I order it and shipped the next day. About $400.00 shipped to my door.
 
I am developing a bit of a wobble/vibration between 30-40 MPH.
Well, is it a wobble or a vibration?
Thump, thump, thump would be tire balance or a "once around" corresponding to wheel speed.
Buzz, buzz, buzz would be driveline related as driveshafts spin 4x wheel speed.
 
So I've got the OME shocks on there, and it's a whole new truck. The vibration is much subdued, but it does still feel like it is there - now it's just "underneath" other normal road feel. I have a feeling that is indeed the driveshafts and the shocks are now keeping some of the movement from being transferred up the springs in the front. Before, I was feeling it through the floor and a bit in the steering wheel, and now it's just a bit in the floor.

Well, is it a wobble or a vibration?
Thump, thump, thump would be tire balance or a "once around" corresponding to wheel speed.
Buzz, buzz, buzz would be driveline related as driveshafts spin 4x wheel speed.

I would describe it as a mix between a wobble and a vibration - just meaning that it is fast and doesn't affect the suspension much, but it does feel like pretty powerful movement. Probably by the meaning of the words it isn't a wobble because of how fast it goes - it's definitely faster than wheel speed. 4x sounds about right, too. I have indeed had an intermittent, quiet grr/buzz since I did the lift a few years back that I attributed to the angle change at the front driveshaft's differential-side U joint, but that hasn't gotten any worse since the wobble. Greasing it never seemed to make a difference one way or another. I am pretty certain that it's the U joint, now I just have to do some shopping around before I can test that theory.

If it turns out to be the drive Shaft, As it was on mine, Tom wood's Custom Drive Shafts built me a heavy Custom Duty Double Cardan front Drive shaft the same day I order it and shipped the next day. About $400.00 shipped to my door.
That's pretty legit considering that new u-joints are going to run me at least $100, and one day the slip yoke might wear out anyway....
 
... a bit of a wobble/vibration between 30-40 MPH. ...

The "rule pf thumb" says; 30-40 MPH ish is tire/wheel, highway speed is drive line. Not definitive, but that is where I would look first.
 
The "rule pf thumb" says; 30-40 MPH ish is tire/wheel, highway speed is drive line. Not definitive, but that is where I would look first.

I have balanced and rebalanced the wheels, and tightened up the wheel bearings. The birfs are original, but the knuckles were just done down to the inner axle seal.
 
At this point I've checked all the steering and driveline components, greased what I can, replaced the shocks, and replaced the steering stabilizer, yet still it persists. I'm thinking at this point that I might just have to wait for it to get worse until I can actually diagnose it. It's gotten much better after the work I've done, but I still feel it. It's subtle though - I took it to the mechanic and they didn't perceive it at all. I have the U-joints in hand and ready to go, but the mechanic doesn't think the ones on there are worn, despite the fact that they are 20 years old. Time will tell, I suppose....
 
At this point I've checked all the steering and driveline components, greased what I can, replaced the shocks, and replaced the steering stabilizer, yet still it persists. I'm thinking at this point that I might just have to wait for it to get worse until I can actually diagnose it. It's gotten much better after the work I've done, but I still feel it. It's subtle though - I took it to the mechanic and they didn't perceive it at all. I have the U-joints in hand and ready to go, but the mechanic doesn't think the ones on there are worn, despite the fact that they are 20 years old. Time will tell, I suppose....
I just had a similar issue starting about 20mph on up. Although, I was told "its not the ujoints" I felt otherwise. I changed the front ujoint and it fixed the problem. I'm assuming you have checked for play with the tires off the ground. I say go for it.
 
I am local (Flag) and have another front driveshaft on hand. You are welcomed to bolt it in and drive it to see if it is any better. PM me if you are interested. It was balanced with new Toyota U joints 24k ago.
 
I know one thing for sure, my stock wheels love to hold dirt/mud and give me a bad vibration, check if you have mud in your tyres, and think of Marissa Tome as you read this
 

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