driveshaft bolt replacements (1 Viewer)

[snailwagon]

All right, being cheap made me think of this, since I need all of the driveshaft bolts for 1 1/2 cruisers. The driveshaft bolts from toyota are pricey, I've dished out the $4 a piece for a few of them before. why are these so expensive? Are they some type of grade that would fall between an sae grade 5 and grade 8, something that is a comprimise of strength and shearability?

Will just grade 8 shouldered hardware be fine, or is that a no no? We have a nice specialty store called Nutty Bolts near by that sells any shape and size.

 

[awp_cruiser]

I am curious about this too. Anyone?

 

[CruisinGA]

I buy Toyota driveshaft bolts, lockwashers, and nuts for my trucks. I do not know enough about hardware ratings and strengths to be comfortable buying anything else. And besides, Dan is such a nice guy to talk to.

If I was in a pinch, I would use no less than 10.9 grade metric (standard is 8.8). These are not SAE bolts. Grade 5/8 etc do not apply.

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

The bigest issue is clearance of the nuts and bolt heads from the drive shaft yokes. Regular "US Metric" bolts and nuts use larger size heads than the equivlent JIS hardware.

I tried the "US Metric" bolts, then went to the Toyota dealer and bought the fancy, yellow-plated JIS hardware.

Good luck!

Alan
Seattle

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Speaking of such, does anyone know the size and thread of the stock ds bolts? I think that they are either 10mm x 1.0mm or 11mm x 1.0. I don't have a caliper, but the pitch measures at 1.0 mm.

I bunged up a stud on the parking brake drum and need to run a die down it.

TIA, Dan

 

[Ground Up]

Depends on year. Check out this thread. It shows the different drive plates and the bolt diameters.

 

[PabloCruise]

Depends on year. Check out this thread. It shows the different drive plates and the bolt diameters.

Do you mean this thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=62110

I do believe they are a funky size. I'd stay OEM with these, JIS is diff than Euro metric...

 

[Isotel]

stay with OEM..

Junkyards are great for this sort of thing


anything elce will just get loose

 

[Mace]

One of the reasons to stick with the stock bolts is that they have a stupid long shoulder (the non threaded portion) that is designed for the flanges. You can use Grade 8 bolts, and people have used them with success but honestly, the stock bolts are not hard to come by and I prefer them to other bolts.

 

[Degnol]

One of the reasons to stick with the stock bolts is that they have a stupid long shoulder (the non threaded portion) that is designed for the flanges. You can use Grade 8 bolts, and people have used them with success but honestly, the stock bolts are not hard to come by and I prefer them to other bolts.

Right. And use some blue Loctite on them, too.



Ed

 

[haystax]

FYI -

Don't leave your driveline bolts in your drive flanges when you drop your driveline off at the shop to get lengthened. Somehow expensive OEM hardware just vanishes into thin air Stupid mistake on my part, but you would think that a driveline shop would stock driveline bolts - I used Marlin Crawler to get replacements...CDan is prolly cheaper though.

 

[peesalot]

The reason they are so expensive and that you should use Toyota are that they have the prope shoulder area that is full dia. to hold the flanges . You will notice this shoulder is there to prevent the flanges from working the threads of the grade 8 bolts everyone uses . If you disassemble any driveshaft that used grade 8 hardware you will see the thread wear because they are just a hair to small to fill the hole in flange , hence the shoulder area on the Toyota drive shaft bolts.