Drivers side door not locking... (1 Viewer)

[kreiten]

Driver's side door lock started freaking out today, hit lock on the controller and it just peeped a couple times and could hear the lock attempting to flip over, but couldn't do it. All other doors are locking except the drivers door. I can manually lock it prior to closing the door but the controller is a no go. I know the 100 guys had this issue with the door actuator, anyone replaced this on the 200 yet? Could it be something different? thanks

 

[TonyP]

Door lock actuator?
Failed Door Lock Actuator R&R

Pics aren't working in that thread but this looks the same.

Driver's Door Lock Actuator Motor Repair [step-by-step w/ pics!!] - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

 

[kreiten]

Door lock actuator?
Failed Door Lock Actuator R&R

Pics aren't working in that thread but this looks the same.

Driver's Door Lock Actuator Motor Repair [step-by-step w/ pics!!] - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

Cool thanks Tony!

 

[Skiime]

I literally had the same issue with the passenger side door last week. It was the actuator.

 

[terdrocket]

I just replaced my driver door actuator today. Pretty easy procedure. Take your time to disconnect and reconnect all plugs and cables. My fumbling through the install and forgetting to reconnect the exterior door rod extended the total install to over an hour. If I had it to do again, I am sure I could knock this out in 15 minutes.

 

[Volunteer]

My DS did the same and went out on the family vacation a few weeks ago. I ordered the set of motors on Amazon as posted here in the forum Tony posted a link above. I took my time not to break the plastic case and it all went well. When its time to do the others I'll be much more efficient at it. I also replaced the blown front speakers while I was in there.

 

[studawg]

My passenger side front went out recently, so I ordered the motors, and tore into everything and replaced.

TIP: If you go this route, and split the case actuator open, make sure all the little linkages inside are aligned properly when you put it back together. I did it once, put it all back in and it would lock then immediately unlock itself. Had to do it all over again.

 

[uclafan]

I just replaced my driver door actuator today. Pretty easy procedure. Take your time to disconnect and reconnect all plugs and cables. My fumbling through the install and forgetting to reconnect the exterior door rod extended the total install to over an hour. If I had it to do again, I am sure I could knock this out in 15 minutes.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, and these instructions were very helpful in the replacement of the passenger side actuator that went out. While the interior locks and unlock function works just fine, I am unable to open the door from the outside. There was a reference made to the exterior door rod, I'm thinking this is the issue. However, I don't remember having to take off this rod, does anyone have a picture of this and where it connects to the actuator assembly? Thanks for your help.

 

[terdrocket]

You can't see it that well, but its there in the upper door edge hanging down. It plugs into the yellow hole in the actuator.

 

[uclafan]

You can't see it that well, but its there in the upper door edge hanging down. It plugs into the yellow hole in the actuator.

Thanks @terdrocket, after taking it apart, again (much faster the second time), it was fairly obvious where the rod goes. I had to fiddle around with trying to get the rod into the hole, but eventually got it. Glad to hear that I wasn't the only person that forgot this important step, thanks again.

 

[terdrocket]

Thanks @terdrocket, after taking it apart, again (much faster the second time), it was fairly obvious where the rod goes. I had to fiddle around with trying to get the rod into the hole, but eventually got it. Glad to hear that I wasn't the only person that forgot this important step, thanks again.

Yup its like your first time, once you know where the rod goes, you quit fiddling and put it in the hole......

 

[smm3]

My passenger side front went out recently, so I ordered the motors, and tore into everything and replaced.

TIP: If you go this route, and split the case actuator open, make sure all the little linkages inside are aligned properly when you put it back together. I did it once, put it all back in and it would lock then immediately unlock itself. Had to do it all over again.

So I replaced my DS motor a week ago, and I had the same thing happen. It would unlock as soon as I locked it. This is because you had the car on. It was preventing you from locking the car with the keys inside. This doe not mean you didn't put it back together correctly......Just wanted to let people know that try this for themselves.

 

[fasteddie2015]

I just replaced my drivers door actuator (LC15), then circled back and tried the motor replacement just to see if I could do it. A few tips:

1) Asin is what Toyota uses from what I've been told. I picked up an Asin actuator assembly for around $110 on amazon. Less than half the price of the Toyota unit, and less than Dorman as well.

2) If you're replacing the motor inside the actuator, play CLOSE attention to how the pieces work and how they're stacked up and where they go. When I had my actuator open, I knocked a few parts off their posts. Most of the pieces are just stacked loose on posts. Took me about an hour to sort it all out and get everything moving right.

3) Wear disposable gloves. There's grease everywhere inside the actuator.

Now two questions:

1) What kind of grease should be used in the actuator? I used dielectric. Hopefully its not too thick.

2) How can I test the rebuilt actuator? Everything seems to move right but I'd like to apply some voltage and see how it does. I don't want to take the door apart in order to test it. I'd even consider swapping it with someone who needs to do the repair, but with no promises that I got it right.

UPDATE: I just put a 9V battery on the two big leads in the plug and was able to see the motor lock and unlock the actuator. The levers involved are easy to check by hand. This 9V setup is also good for testing most LEDs.