So ive got what sounds like some driveline noise coming from behind me. It makes a grrrr noise if i feather the throttle everytime, some times if i lightly accelerate or decel. Its a 97 lx450. It just started after had 4.88s, part time kit, rear lunch box locker, and low range t case gears installed by what i thought was a reputable toyota 4x4 shop. They couldnt find the noise and just refunded part of my money after they rebuilt my t case and it didnt fix it. Its got a ome j lift with metal tech front spacers. Im leaning towards the rear pinion angle being off. I ordered some landtank arms but i think they are longer than factory and my needs to go up and not further down. If im thinking about it correctly. Do i need adjustable upper arms? Drive shaft seems good and has been greased. They said they even tried a know good shaft from the owners land cruiser. They thought it was the low range gears in the t case
Driveline noise help (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Etxmike
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Low range gears are not in play at highway speed.
Lifting changes drive shaft geometry, diff gears change the drive shaft speed, part time increases the load on the rear drive shaft. Any/all of these can cause the noise. Usually, greasing the u-joints will cause a temporary change in the noise, confirming the problem. Changing pinion angle may help.
Lifting changes drive shaft geometry, diff gears change the drive shaft speed, part time increases the load on the rear drive shaft. Any/all of these can cause the noise. Usually, greasing the u-joints will cause a temporary change in the noise, confirming the problem. Changing pinion angle may help.
- Thread starter
- #3
Good to know on the low range gears. Its been lifted since ive got it probably a year ago. No noises except the front drive shaft(I confirmed by locking the center diff and removing the shaft). Which is why i went part time. So from what your saying its drive shaft related? I was worried about the rear diff gears not being set up correctly.
- Joined
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Could be, you changed a bunch of related stuff at once, making guessing more challenging.
- Thread starter
- #5
Gotcha, the driveshaft is greased. I will get the pinion angle dialed in and try that then try another shaft. Are the land tank lower arms gonna be enough or should i get some adjustable ones? If that doesnt fix it is there anything else i can try or just love with it?
There is a lot of reading on this subject archived here on mud not to mention the rest of the internet. Everyone’s situation seems to be unique. What works to keep a driveline happy post lift on this truck may not work on that truck or your truck.
J’s with a front spacer is basically a 4” lift unless your rig is very heavy. Most would need a front dc shaft with your lift but you went part time so it’s rather moot.
Something else to keep in mind is that the 4.88 gears caused an increase in driveline rotational speed which will also bring an impending problem to the surface.
I fought the same issue you report with your rear driveline by trying a new shaft and precise pinion adjustment with no success. “Success” here is very subjective. My tolerance for driveline vibes is low so I went to a rear dc shaft and the problem was solved.
Seems like the shop refunded you some money that they shouldn’t have because their work has zero to do with your issue.
J’s with a front spacer is basically a 4” lift unless your rig is very heavy. Most would need a front dc shaft with your lift but you went part time so it’s rather moot.
Something else to keep in mind is that the 4.88 gears caused an increase in driveline rotational speed which will also bring an impending problem to the surface.
I fought the same issue you report with your rear driveline by trying a new shaft and precise pinion adjustment with no success. “Success” here is very subjective. My tolerance for driveline vibes is low so I went to a rear dc shaft and the problem was solved.
Seems like the shop refunded you some money that they shouldn’t have because their work has zero to do with your issue.
- Thread starter
- #8
I read a bunch of old threads but most were left open ended. I didnt even think about a dc shaft. Im guessing i can just have a driveshaft shop modify mine?
I did just that. A full service driveline shop will be able to install an aftermarket double Cardan joint in size 1310 onto your existing shaft. If you plan to do any rock crawling you may opt to go with a thicker wall tube.
You can also do some research and find out how and where to obtain a Toyota DC shaft from a 4Runner or Tundra or?.. and then make it the length you need. I’m not the guy to tell you about the Toyota route. @RFB comes to mind as a member who did the Toyota DC’s recently. It’s been being done for a good while now.
I went with 1310 aftermarket DC and Spicer Life Series joints for simplicities sake and the availability of the parts used. I’ve done lots of rock crawling on 37’s with no problems.
Before spending the money on a DC shaft, as other have suggested, exhaust all other avenues: lube joints, replace joints, inspect the splined joint for slop, balance and straighten the shaft, and confirm that the companion flanges are within 1degree of parallel. Be aware that once the static slope of your driveline exceeds 6-7 degrees, getting it to run perfectly smooth becomes more and more difficult regardless of all other variables.
Yes. A good replacement joint for the pinion end is a Matsuba available at cruiseroutfitters for a good price.
Your noise kind of sounds like a transfer case output bearing or pinion bearing. Does it happen when your going downhill at highway speeds and let off the gas?
Harbor freight sells a digital angle finder.
Sounds similar to an issue I am having. It sounds like a scraping sound. I think I am going to grease the u joints and go from there. I have stock gearing and no other modifications other than the suspension.
After installing Metal Tech 30mm spacers I have gotten a lot more driveline vibration. In the front, I have Dobinsons 4" lift caster correction brackets, and in the rear, I have nothing to help with pinion angles.
I am on the fence about buying the Metal Tech adjustable upper/lower control arms. I can visually see how uppers will help the driveline angles but how do the lowers help? Pushing out the rear lowers will cause the angles to be worse correct, were making the uppers longer would help the situation, correct?
I am on the fence about buying the Metal Tech adjustable upper/lower control arms. I can visually see how uppers will help the driveline angles but how do the lowers help? Pushing out the rear lowers will cause the angles to be worse correct, were making the uppers longer would help the situation, correct?
I just put lower adjustable CA from Metal Tech I was able to get it adjustable enough to get the correct pinion angle, but now that I think about it my TC angle has changed from my swap but it may work for you too
Just ordered the bundle from Metal Tech hopefully that will solve my issues or reduce the issues in the rear.
- Thread starter
- #19
I was thinking this too but i was thinking about wrong. Heres a pic to help. Im waiting on my land tank lowers to try then ill buy uppers if needed, then ill try a dc rear shaft if needed.
Darn it. I just bought the "bundle" from Metal Tech. I guess I could cancel and just get the lowers then. But on the bright side, I will have new bushings in the control arms. Plus when the time comes it will allow me to center the axle better for larger tires too.
