I’ve been reading all about lube and where to find the zerks, driveline considerations, etc and I’m hoping to find some sound technical advice on grease type. I’ve got some DuPont molykote g4700 grease I bought on a recommendation from one of the forums here (I cannot remember which), and wanted to confirm this grease would indeed be appropriate for lubing what needs it. BITOG doesn’t have much on info that I can see and I’m hoping it is within or exceeds the recommended specs. Thanks for your insight and recommendations!
Driveline Grease type
- Thread starter gasman4u
- Start date
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There are several threads on here on this topic. Here are two I started. I think any MP grease will do.
Greasing control arms and other chassis components - questions - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/greasing-control-arms-and-other-chassis-components-questions.1246385/
Drive (propeller) shaft slip joint grease - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/drive-propeller-shaft-slip-joint-grease.1253781/
You usually want to avoid high-moly in rolling-bearing applications like our u-joint spiders, but it would work great in the slip yoke.. though none seem to be wearing out with regular lithium stuff either. In theory you could run two guns and types, but that might be approaching overkill. @kcjaz is correct that most grease seems to work great as long as it is applied often enough.
Not sure whether your g4700 is considered high-moly, but that is some research you'd need to do.
Not sure whether your g4700 is considered high-moly, but that is some research you'd need to do.
Lack of info on BITOG and hoping it is with specs are 2 red flags for me. Go get some grease that has lots of info and is clearly labeled as being within specs. I use Valvoline full synthetic.
edit: and be sure to read the @bloc posts on getting to the zerks on the front propeller shaft. They should be required reading for anyone unholstering a grease gun.
Hmmm. I have used a 3% (may have been 5%) moly on my spiders. I did this because that was recommenced for my SPC UCAs and I didn't want to run two different grease guns. Googling I found this which seems to corroborate what @bloc is saying. However, are the roller bearing in the spiders (I actually thought they were needle bearings) really a "high speed roller bearing"? I know the prop shaft spins fast compared to a ball joint but the shaft rpm is not what the spider bearings see.
Use M1 red synthetic in everything. No issues across 5 Toyota Trucks.
Pro tip - get a needle grease gun attachment. Makes teaching them off-angle very easy.
Pro tip - get a needle grease gun attachment. Makes teaching them off-angle very easy.
My understanding was if it slides, use moly. If it rolls, don't... because moly is so slick it can prevent rolling.
Realistically everything in our drivelines is so low-load by design they are probably fine with either.
Drivelines are the same as any other with a spider on both ends. I use Valvoline synthetic and lube them until I see fresh grease oozing out of all 4 spider cups. I use the same on the slip joints.
I use the same on
's Series 100 XL, as well as 2 Kubota tractors, a Honda ATV, a hay baling machine, etc., etc. Absolutely nothing magic on greasing the 100 or 200 series trucks.
I use the same on
's Series 100 XL, as well as 2 Kubota tractors, a Honda ATV, a hay baling machine, etc., etc. Absolutely nothing magic on greasing the 100 or 200 series trucks.
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During original assembly the rear middle joint on the transfer case was installed in such a way the the zerk fitting was pointed forward. Not a big deal but for the fact that the cross-member for the transmission is directly under it.
After getting the aforementioned Lock and Lube XL (THANKS!) device I noticed they make a right angle adapter which I ordered. In the meantime I was in an Advance Auto Parts looking at a battery for the farm 4 wheeler. I went to where they had grease and found a right angle attachment in stock for a bit over $7.00. I figure that I've got nothing to lose but time waiting on the Lock and Lube part so I bought it.
Here's where it got to be interesting because the fitting wouldn't clear the joint opposite of the zerk fitting. Got out the bore scope and snaked it over the transmission mount to have a look and sure enough it was making contact before it could fully engage.
I cut a 45º on the end which would allow it to clear. Put it on a new grease gun (Made In Germany) which has two settings: Pressure and Volume. I got it from my favorite hardware store: McMaster-Carr. It's nicely made. McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/1986N12/
Pushed the fitting into the very tight space and got it to fully engage. Soon there was grease coming out of all of the joints and all was good! Cleaned up the excess so as to not sling it everywhere and as this was the lone hold out from last weekend I'm done.
Thanks to all members for their input.
Next....
After getting the aforementioned Lock and Lube XL (THANKS!) device I noticed they make a right angle adapter which I ordered. In the meantime I was in an Advance Auto Parts looking at a battery for the farm 4 wheeler. I went to where they had grease and found a right angle attachment in stock for a bit over $7.00. I figure that I've got nothing to lose but time waiting on the Lock and Lube part so I bought it.
Here's where it got to be interesting because the fitting wouldn't clear the joint opposite of the zerk fitting. Got out the bore scope and snaked it over the transmission mount to have a look and sure enough it was making contact before it could fully engage.
I cut a 45º on the end which would allow it to clear. Put it on a new grease gun (Made In Germany) which has two settings: Pressure and Volume. I got it from my favorite hardware store: McMaster-Carr. It's nicely made. McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/1986N12/
Pushed the fitting into the very tight space and got it to fully engage. Soon there was grease coming out of all of the joints and all was good! Cleaned up the excess so as to not sling it everywhere and as this was the lone hold out from last weekend I'm done.
Thanks to all members for their input.
Next....
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Another option for hitting the rear of the front driveshaft with a very basic grease gun and tip.
forum.ih8mud.com
How I grease my front driveshaft
I've seen a few threads asking for advice on getting the front driveline lubed, and even a couple asking whether there are even zerks up there. Had to do my drivelines recently and figured I'd take some pictures of what I do. First off.. the equipment. No fancy grease gun or nozzle here. Just a...
forum.ih8mud.com