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Drive Train Vibration

Discussion in '70-Series Tech' started by NStimac, Jul 12, 2005.

  1. NStimac

    NStimac

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    Hey Guys,
    Was wondering if you could give me a little help. It seems a vibration has found its way into front drive train of my Cnd spec. 70. Comes about near 25-30 MPH. I might have started feeling it last winter while cruising through some snow at higher speeds ~45 MPH. I took this as a sign to rebuild/replace/repack my birf's that were leaking which I did last spring.

    Symptoms:
    Hubs Locked 4hi = Vib
    Hubs Locked 2hi = No Vib
    Hubs Unlocked 2hi = No Vib
    Hubs Unlocked 4hi = Vib

    I don't know if I've gone fast enough in low range to ever notice it. But it sure sounds like a T'case bearing to me and to top it off it looks like a little bit of oil is leaking down the front drive shaft. Plus if it were bearings in the diff. then it would vibrate when the hubs were locked even in 2hi right? What I am most confused about is why would these bearings/seal fail on the front side of the T'case or front diff. when there hardly used with respect to the rear parts. Ok so what do ya think ? I’ve never tore into a T’case or anything so I am clueless.


    -Thanks
    Noah
     
  2. David*BJ70

    David*BJ70 Looking forward to reach the end of the world

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    I don't know for your problem... but be carrefull driving your Cruiser in 4X4 without the front hubs lock.
     
  3. Red Herring

    Red Herring

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    Sounds like its from the drive line. Have you checked for play in the front axle u-joints?
     
  4. Deny

    Deny

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    I would bet my money that the U joints or the splines on the drive shaft are worn. This vibration from these worn parts could even be the cause of the worn down transfer seal. Get under the truck and grab the drive shaft and see if you can yank on the driveshaft in a non rotation motion and see if there is any play. If you put on a lift recently the yoke will be pulled apart more than normal, causing more wear on the splines, thus causing a vibration. I don't know if this is your exact problem, but I am pretty sure it is, because that is what my truck is doing, and I am just too cheap and lazy to get that front driveshaft lengthened.
    Cheers and good luck,
    Deny
     
  5. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    did you made any recently change in your TLC . ? lift .. ?

    If you disarm your rear drive shaft verify when you arm it again, do in right u-joints position .. ;)
     
  6. NStimac

    NStimac

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    Red
    "Have you checked for play in the front axle u-joints?"
    Do you mean birfields or drive shaft u-joints? I replaced seals and king pin (Knuckle) bearings last spring everything else was cleaned and repacked.

    Deny
    There is a OME lift on the truck when I bought it last year. I didn't think there were issues with this lift but I could see how splines could wear faster with the yoke pulled out more. Guessing the lift could wear the u-joint quicker too. But, why the front not the rear? Drive shaft angle? So if its a u-joint why no vibration when hubs are lock and 2hi? Maybe cause there’s no load on the joint since its just spinning the T'case gears. Hmmm I’ll have to check it for play after work.

    Thanks for the ultra fast respones
    -Noah
     
  7. Greg_B

    Greg_B

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    Have you checked the angle of the t-case front output flange to the flange on the front diff?

    Go through all the basics as has been mentioned as well...u-bolts, driveshaft u-joints, play in slip yoke, etc.

    hth's

    gb
     
  8. crushers

    crushers post ho

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    slip joints on the CND 70 series seem to wear quickly even when not used much...
    you did lock the hubs once a month and drive in 2WD for a couple miles, right? as per the instructions from the factory?
    (i know i never do...)
    move the drive shaft (with hubs unlocked and in 2 wd) up and down at the spline section... if there is movement then that is probably your culprit..

    cheers
     
  9. Deny

    Deny

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    It is wierd the front is doing it first before the back, but maybe the guy is like me and had the back driveshaft lengthened and not the front. As for it making the noise with the front unlocked, the driveshaft will still spin, so the noise will still occur. Mine actually gets louder when you let off on the gas, and there is no load.
    cheers,
    Deny
     
  10. crushers

    crushers post ho

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    actually the rear is in constant motion and the front is stabilized most of the time...
    i know it does not make sense but this seems to be the case...
     
  11. tlcruiserman

    tlcruiserman SILVER Star

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    I have had the a simular problem with most of the CND model Cruisers I have gotten, first it was with my 42 series and then with 70 series. Maybe a little different but when I let of the throttle and coast (this is in 2H, 4H, 4L) I get a rumble noise from the drive train, I have replaced the axle bearings, ring and pinions (changed gears), Drive shaft u-joints and re-balanced the shafts. Still had noise so I figured it was transfer case. Does that sound about right??

    Thanks,

    Michael
     
  12. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    If ths sound come from your t-case, in the only think for me are bearings ..
     
  13. NStimac

    NStimac

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    Ok so I looked at it last night. I gave it a good tug and sure enough it has some play. I was expecting for the play to increase as I got closer to the T'case but it didn't. In-fact I believe most of the play was occurring at the u-joint near the diff maybe a little from the upper one too, it was hard to tell with the skid plate in place. I gave the rear driveshaft a tug for comparison it was rock solid.

    Michael, Deny - yeah it is the same getting louder when coming off throttle or coasting.

    Ok, so I am leaning toward u-joints now. At least the front one should be replaced it does wiggle a bit for sure but I’ll most likely do both. What are the compatibility with the other cruisers 4x and 6x? How much should I plan on paying for a set? Also what tools are required? Doesn't look overly difficult from the FSM at least. Any Tips?


    -Thanks again guys
    Noah
     
  14. Deny

    Deny

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    I don't know about the 70's, but my 42 has the same ujoints as the 60's, and I am assuming the 70's are the same. I can't really remember changing them, but I think you will need a screw driver to pop the clips on the inside out, then a punch and a hammer, or vise to push the u-joint out. I'm sure some one who does it regularly or recently will chime in. The U-joints are pretty cheap, I think I paid around $50?cnd ea for them, it has been a while.
    Good luck,
    Deny
     
  15. silvercrusher

    silvercrusher

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  16. tlcruiserman

    tlcruiserman SILVER Star

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    the best advice I can give you is stick with Toyota U-Joints they are worh the little extra you will pay, and they will fit the best.

    Michael
     
  17. Canuck

    Canuck

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    I have this too on my 70 though in the rear. Checked it out and there is a lot of play on the rear u-joint. The vibrations are really bad when you let off the gas, especially going down hill.
     
  18. Deny

    Deny

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    Canuck,
    Be sure that it is the u-joint and not a loose pinion. Just a heads up, because I blew up my rear end before, and all I would have had to do is retighten the pinion nut, o well live and learn I guess.
     
  19. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    Sometimes a wera rear pinion joke, is other reazon ..
     
  20. Canuck

    Canuck

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    What's involved in checking the pinion nut? (never performed much work on the diffs and tranny so not sure what to look for)