Drive flange hits spindle. '92 FJ80 (1 Viewer)

[paulzak]

Odd problem. Did a quick search but didn't get any hits. I replaced the birfields some time ago with the replacement taller drive flanges.

I've gotten considerable buggering of the spindle lead threads due to interference with the drive flange. I cleaned them up and have placed 3 paper gaskets between the drive flange to and the hub to get some clearance but I'm not happy with this setup.

There was actual binding when I tightened up the cone washers.

Anyone ever see this before?

Thanks!

 

[-Spike-]

Toyota or aftermarket spindles and/or drive flanges?

If those are of the correct dimensions, the only way I can imagine this scenario is if the hub is riding too far in on the spindle. I'd be looking at the inner bearing and possibly the spindle shoulder that the inner bearing seats against. Did you replace the wheel bearings as well?

You are right to be concerned about using paper gaskets to shim the assembly, they will likely allow movement which might damage the studs and pins on the hub.

 

[sunrk]

Later version CV's are 8 mm longer than early version ones. Dunno why. Interesting in toyodiy, etc. the original part-numbers for the earlly CV's are NLA but they point to 43405-60120 as being the current replacement part. I couldn't afford a pair of those, but I found a place selling HDK (made in Japan) TO-057N's which are equivalent. They do not have ABS rings (my 80 doesn't have ABS) but do have the centre of the shaft drilled with a grease nipple in the end (which enables direct greasing of the inside of the CV). My old CV's were also HDK's but they are the later version with ABS ring. They've been pulled out during my front end rebuild job. Probably still good.

My 80 is part-time 4wd too.

 

[-Spike-]

Later version CV's are 8 mm longer than early version ones. Dunno why.

Because the drive flange on early trucks was failing, so they made it thicker, and the birf stub axle is longer to go through it. Shouldn't affect how the spindle interacts with the drive flange, as long as the new drive flange is made to the same spec as Toyota's.

 

[paulzak]

Toyota or aftermarket spindles and/or drive flanges?

If those are of the correct dimensions, the only way I can imagine this scenario is if the hub is riding too far in on the spindle. I'd be looking at the inner bearing and possibly the spindle shoulder that the inner bearing seats against. Did you replace the wheel bearings as well?

You are right to be concerned about using paper gaskets to shim the assembly, they will likely allow movement which might damage the studs and pins on the hub.

Toyota spindle and Toyota drive flange. I had the same thought about what had to be wrong for this to happen. Bearings are relatively new. Spindle appears to otherwise be in fair shape. No serious offroading. I do keep the preload on the high side but spindle lengthening seems absurd. The bearings are a Timken or SKF, can't remember specifically. The only parts it could be are the spindle shoulder, the bearings, the hub or the drive plate itself. I'm not hearing that anyone else has actually seen this so I'll start replacing parts. Spindle and bearings first. At least I now know what to look for. What a nuisance. Thanks.

 

[BILT4ME]

Toyota spindle and Toyota drive flange. I had the same thought about what had to be wrong for this to happen. Bearings are relatively new. Spindle appears to otherwise be in fair shape. No serious offroading. I do keep the preload on the high side but spindle lengthening seems absurd. The bearings are a Timken or SKF, can't remember specifically. The only parts it could be are the spindle shoulder, the bearings, the hub or the drive plate itself. I'm not hearing that anyone else has actually seen this so I'll start replacing parts. Spindle and bearings first. At least I now know what to look for. What a nuisance. Thanks.

Where did you get your bearings? Is it possible they are counterfeit? Do a little searching on the web about the bearing race and bearing part number from each manufacturer's website and see how they compare. They SHOULD be within 0.0005" of each other. It's possible that the bearings you received are counterfeit and may not actually be the correct "thickness".

I am assuming you changed the bearings in the hub, but I don't know what the LAST thing changed was. But I would start there.

 

[paulzak]

Where did you get your bearings? Is it possible they are counterfeit? Do a little searching on the web about the bearing race and bearing part number from each manufacturer's website and see how they compare. They SHOULD be within 0.0005" of each other. It's possible that the bearings you received are counterfeit and may not actually be the correct "thickness".

I am assuming you changed the bearings in the hub, but I don't know what the LAST thing changed was. But I would start there.

Certainly a possibility. I will order up some replacements from a reputable source and measure the thickness . Good idea. Thanks.

 

[paulzak]

Odd problem. Did a quick search but didn't get any hits. I replaced the birfields some time ago with the replacement taller drive flanges.

I've gotten considerable buggering of the spindle lead threads due to interference with the drive flange. I cleaned them up and have placed 3 paper gaskets between the drive flange to and the hub to get some clearance but I'm not happy with this setup.

There was actual binding when I tightened up the cone washers.

Anyone ever see this before?

Thanks!

To anyone who followed this. A new replacement hub was required to resolve this problem. This problem became so bad that there was insufficient clearance between rotor and caliper to install the inboard pad. What apparently happened was that the inside bearing race spun and moved the disk inboard. This also caused the spindle to wear on the drive flange. I guess I can't complain too much as the '92 truck just turned 275k mi.