drive belts and water pump? (1 Viewer)

[landcruiser3DP]

gents,
i need to do all three belts and i think i have found it in the FSM under CH Charging and CO Cooling? i'll be reading these two and also trying to see if i can find a link or two in the FAQ.
i've got toyota OEM belts in the garage.
anyone mind just helping me wrap my head around what is coming off and if there are any tricks or cautions or while you are in there items? i put a Aisin water pump on order at NAPA this morning.
for starters is the radiator coming off? or just the fan blades?
and what do i have there? three belts? two run the fan? one goes to the water pump? one runs the generator and the third runs the AC compressor?
i'm in the ATX and doing it outside so if i can get in and get out before it gets too cold i will be happy.
THANKS for any tips.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

more from the FSM.

 

[lumbee1]

Gates 91107 Belt Tension Tester​

I like using the Gates Belt Tension Tester.

 

[GBinAZ]

For the belts:

Changing your belts in 25 minutes

There have been a few posts lately with folks changing the 3 drive belts and including the unneccessary steps of removing the battery, the battery tray, the lower engine bay skidplate and even the fan (!?). Since I changed my belts today after a fruitless attempt to quiet them down, I...

forum.ih8mud.com

3 belts total

AC compressor = 1 belt, outside groove of crank pulley
Water pump/fan clutch = 2 belts, 2 inside grooves on crank pulley
Alternator = 2 belts, 2 inside grooves on crank pulley
Guide pulley/idler pulley = 2 belts, 2 inside grooves on crank pulley
Crank pulley = 3 belts

 

[Malleus]

You only need to remove the fan blades for the water pump/ALT pulleys, but removing the shroud is helpful, if it's already prebroken for you - if not, don't touch it, you'll only break it. Leave the fan sitting against the radiator, no need to remove it further, it'll be out of the way there.

A breaker bar on two adjacent nuts will hold the fan while you loosen each nut. Put the bar on the nut, not the pilot end of the stud. FWIW, these nuts are the most used fastener on the truck. Toyota lists them as mirror nut. They are on:
the battery hold downs
the fan blade
the thermostat housing
the EGR flange
and, surprisingly, the mirror;
possibly some other places I haven't found yet.

The ALT bracket loosens one of two ways: the nut, or Torx in the head end of the tensioner bolt, near the battery box. Both are an unreasonable PITA. I recommend pulling the battery and tray so you have room to work. You can leave them in, but you'll wish you hadn't. The bottom bolt under the ALT has to be loosened so it'll pivot, as does the top. Neither needs to come out. Unless you want to clean them. I would.

You need to loosen the A/C tensioner from under the truck. You have to remove the radiator skid plate, if you have one.

I highly recommend spending 15 minutes and thoroughly cleaning both tensioner assemblies (all parts). You will be glad you did when the bolts spin freely by hand and you don't have to spend an hour winding them up with a wrench. Especially that ALT tensioner stud.

HTH

 

[landcruiser3DP]

For the belts:

Changing your belts in 25 minutes

There have been a few posts lately with folks changing the 3 drive belts and including the unneccessary steps of removing the battery, the battery tray, the lower engine bay skidplate and even the fan (!?). Since I changed my belts today after a fruitless attempt to quiet them down, I...

forum.ih8mud.com

3 belts total

AC compressor = 1 belt, outside groove of crank pulley
Water pump/fan clutch = 2 belts, 2 inside grooves on crank pulley
Alternator = 2 belts, 2 inside grooves on crank pulley
Guide pulley/idler pulley = 2 belts, 2 inside grooves on crank pulley
Crank pulley = 3 belts

/thanks/ for that.

 

[Cruiser804]

There is a thread on here titled something like "how to change belt in under 20 minutes". Its pretty easy, I just did it today.

If you're replacing the water pump you do not need to remove the radiator or the fan shroud. You have to remove the fan and the fan clutch. Put a piece of card board in front of the radiator so you don't bang it up when you're working in there. Also, watch out for the little nipple on top DS of the radiator.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

hi @Malleus.

thanks a LOT for that. i'm probably going to do this over two days after studying up a bit. i forget the name of the guy that does the videos but i'll probably make an exception and watch some videos on this one first.

can i please just ask you a couple quick ones /before/ studying it all just to get it into my head where the tricky bits are?(!) meaning i don't know anything yet but if i ask a question or two i will definitely recognize it once i get in there.

so to recap (so i make sure i get it) from @GBinAZ i have:

1 belt on outside groove of crank pulley on AC compressor?
2 belts on 2 inside grooves on crank pulley for Water pump and on crank pulley for Fan Clutch?
2 belts on 2 inside grooves on crank pulley for Alternator?
2 belts on 2 inside grooves on crank pulley for Guide Pulley and Idler Pulley?
3 belts on Crank pulley?

does that look right? can i please ask what do i call the three belts again?

"You only need to remove the fan blades for the water pump/ALT pulleys, but removing the shroud is helpful, if it's already prebroken for you - if not, don't touch it, you'll only break it. Leave the fan sitting against the radiator, no need to remove it further, it'll be out of the way there."

> so basically the fan detaches and i push it back into the shroud to get it out of the way so i can get the belts past the fan - well the fan axle or whatever?

"A breaker bar on two adjacent nuts will hold the fan while you loosen each nut. Put the bar on the nut, not the pilot end of the stud."

i didn't quite catch this. i get a socket on a breaker bar and put it over one of the nuts? then i leverage it against one of the other nuts? or i need two sockets and two breaker bars? or i lean the handle end of the breaker bar against something? in any case i need to keep it from spinning i gather when i loosen the other nuts.

"The ALT bracket loosens one of two ways: the nut, or Torx in the head end of the tensioner bolt, near the battery box. Both are an unreasonable PITA. I recommend pulling the battery and tray so you have room to work. You can leave them in, but you'll wish you hadn't. The bottom bolt under the ALT has to be loosened so it'll pivot, as does the top. Neither needs to come out. Unless you want to clean them. I would."

so is the alt bracket removed to get the belts on? or am i "pivoting" the alternator to get the alternator belt on? i get the remove battery and battery box obviously but i will have to research a little more on removing the bottom bolt under the alternator. or why i am doing this?

"You need to loosen the A/C tensioner from under the truck. You have to remove the radiator skid plate, if you have one."

so there is an AC tensioner and a alternator tensioner? and i need to get a tension measuring thing on them to make sure i have the proper tightness i guess?

"I highly recommend spending 15 minutes and thoroughly cleaning both tensioner assemblies (all parts). You will be glad you did when the bolts spin freely by hand and you don't have to spend an hour winding them up with a wrench. Especially that ALT tensioner stud."

got it! THANKS.

 

[LandLocked93]

Dump the idler.
The belts will work through the blades. No need remove the fan.
What's the question again?

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Dump the idler.
The belts will work through the blades. No need remove the fan.
What's the question again?

idler pulley is labeled tensioner pulley in this one?
also are you saying i cut off the old ones and i can thread the new ones over the fan and over the fan axle or whatever i call it?
and what is the method for getting them over everything? am i pivoting things to get them over the crank pulleys? or am i loosening tensioners and then tightening them down? or rotating the crank pulleys like you do on a bicycle chain?
ALSO, lock bolt and pivot bolt are getting PB blaster? anything else?

 

[LandLocked93]

idler pulley is labeled tensioner pulley in this one?

Yes

also are you saying i cut off the old ones and i can thread the new ones over the fan and over the fan axle or whatever i call it?

Yes - it's a zig and zag affair around ('thusly' thru) the blades.
Or I'm a thinking of a completely diff vehicle...tho my 80 is all I bother to work on, so...

and what is the method for getting them over everything? ... am i loosening tensioners and then tightening them down?

This - to include the alt.

ALSO, lock bolt and pivot bolt are getting PB blaster? anything else?

Not that I can think of. I could get to the alt tensioner bolt thru the drivers side wheel well with a long socket and 16"s of extension. (insert length pun here)

edit:this is not a How To. It is what's worked in my experience. Follow the FSM in all cases of repair or replacement.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Yes

Yes - it's a zig and zag affair around ('thusly' thru) the blades.
Or I'm a thinking of a completely diff vehicle...tho my 80 is all I bother to work on, so...

This

Not that I can think of. I could get to the alt tensioner bolt thru the drivers side wheel well with a long socket and 16"s of extension. (insert length play here)

THANKS a lot.

 

[zapatius]

idler pulley is labeled tensioner pulley in this one?
also are you saying i cut off the old ones and i can thread the new ones over the fan and over the fan axle or whatever i call it?
and what is the method for getting them over everything? am i pivoting things to get them over the crank pulleys? or am i loosening tensioners and then tightening them down? or rotating the crank pulleys like you do on a bicycle chain?
ALSO, lock bolt and pivot bolt are getting PB blaster? anything else?

View attachment 2836794

It's a moot point if you're putting a new water pump on. If you weren't, you can do belts without removing fan.

I just use a large flat blade screw driver as counter pressure to loosen nuts on fan mount.

You're overthinking all of this. You have three belts on there. Take a picture if you have to and put the three new belts on the same way.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

what's your point about the water pump? that you don't have to remove the fan if you're taking off the water pump and putting a new one in? and you don't have to remove the fan anyway?
not sure about over thinking but i think you can only say that after you've done something to someone that hasn't.
in any case there is only one belt on there now.

 

[LandLocked93]

there is only one belt on there now.

So you're asking about the two inner belts and their route?
Don't both belts go around the crank, fan, and alt pulleys?
Or I'm missing something eh?

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Yes

Yes - it's a zig and zag affair around ('thusly' thru) the blades.
Or I'm a thinking of a completely diff vehicle...tho my 80 is all I bother to work on, so...

This - to include the alt.

Not that I can think of. I could get to the alt tensioner bolt thru the drivers side wheel well with a long socket and 16"s of extension. (insert length pun here)

edit:this is not a How To. It is what's worked in my experience. Follow the FSM in all cases of repair or replacement.

is it a good time to put in a "blue fan clutch"? i'm in texas and i had intended on buying a used one and cleaning it and putting in heavier weight fluid but if it is a good time maybe i put in a fan clutch?

 

[landcruiser3DP]

So you're asking about the two inner belts and their route?
Don't both belts go around the crank, fan, and alt pulleys?
Or I'm missing something eh?

i think this is it from from what another inmate said:
1 belt on outside groove of crank pulley on AC compressor.
2 belts on 2 inside grooves on crank pulley for Water pump and on crank pulley for Fan Clutch.
2 belts on 2 inside grooves on crank pulley for Alternator.
2 belts on 2 inside grooves on crank pulley for Guide Pulley and Idler Pulley.
3 belts on Crank pulley.
but i guess people say to pull the "tensioner pulley" on the right because it doesn't do anything or something like that?

 

[LandLocked93]

is it a good time to put in a "blue fan clutch"? i'm in texas and i had intended on buying a used one and cleaning it and putting in heavier weight fluid but if it is a good time maybe i put in a fan clutch?

Thankfully I've not had to vary from factory in that regard. Presumably, period new rigs didn't either.
Lots of threads here on it tho.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Thankfully I've not had to vary from factory in that regard. Presumably, period new rigs didn't either.
Lots of threads here on it tho.

thanks man. i think i read here guys in the south put heavier weight oil in the fan clutch and get better results. i'll search. but i think (?) it's not a bad time to put one in...?

 

[Malleus]

Take a breath Yes to all your questions, except you do not need to buy a belt tensioner adjustment gauge. Push down between two pulleys with your thumb. It should move about 1/4" or so. No rocket science here.

This is a 20 minute job to remove and reinstall 3 belts (two for the ALT, one for the A/C), plus time it takes to get the tensioners loose. That includes removing/reinstalling the battery.

Yes, you can get the belts off without removing the fan, but it's a PITA. Yes, push the fan against the radiator, if you decide to take it off. You'll need two tools for this: one to wedge against two nuts, and the socket to loosen the nut. Then work your way around. If you had planned to replace the clutch, now is the time to do it. Whether you do it or not is entirely up to you.

If neither of your tensioners can be loosened by hand after you break them loose, you will be money ahead by taking the extra time to completely remove them, clean and lubricate the threads, before reinstalling them. This way the job will be half the time, next time. Make sure you wash these areas down when you come off the trail. You'll thank yourself later.