Builds DRANGED's GX470 build/ownership thread (1 Viewer)
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Just get a new body mount bolt
Who needs skid plates? The tinfoil ones held up just fine.
You don't need boiling water and that will just remove /destroy the seasoning. Just wipe it out is all it needs between uses and maybe a light coat of oil. If stuff is stuck on brush it lightly with cold water and if properly seasoned that should be enough. Wipe dry and then some heat on the stove. Then just wipe it down lightly with with veg oil and heat on top of stove and let cool. You don't need to re-season between uses, once properly seasoned. I think olive oil has too low a smoking temp compared to others. Bacon grease also works well.
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I season mine similar to that link. Use it to cook....let it cool. Rinse with water and wipe it out. Dry it with high heat on my gas range. Let it smoke. Oil it and let it cool. It's been perfectly seasoned for over 15 years and nothing sticks to it. Olivia oil is good. Cooking Ribeyes works better. Animal fat really gets in there.
I'm going to try the flaxseed oil from the link.
I have a cast iron griddle and pan that are pretty new. My dad has a cast iron pan that has been in the family since long before me that is amazing to cook on. Mine, not so much.
I do cook bacon on mine but maybe the boiling water is ruining the seasoning.
Great link by the way!
I have a cast iron griddle and pan that are pretty new. My dad has a cast iron pan that has been in the family since long before me that is amazing to cook on. Mine, not so much.
I do cook bacon on mine but maybe the boiling water is ruining the seasoning.
Great link by the way!
Boiling water will ruin the seasoning
As Dan said, boiling water is a no-no, but dish soap is, contrary to popular belief, perfectly safe for the seasoning.
The no soap on cast iron rule came about because soap used to contain lye, and lye would eat through the seasoning. The bonds that are made by heating oils / fats to create the seasoning aren't eaten away by a light wash / scrub with modern dish soap. I'm no chemist, but I trust serious eats a good bit when it comes to all things food and cooking. See myth #4
The no soap on cast iron rule came about because soap used to contain lye, and lye would eat through the seasoning. The bonds that are made by heating oils / fats to create the seasoning aren't eaten away by a light wash / scrub with modern dish soap. I'm no chemist, but I trust serious eats a good bit when it comes to all things food and cooking. See myth #4
I just use heat to sanitize it and olive oil to seal it post cook. The animal fats go in, the olive oil keeps it in. Mine hasn't see soap, abrasives, or hot water in over 10 years.
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- #375
Is there an "awesomeness of casties" thread where this convo could really be had? 
BTW, here's round 3 of flax oil and baking in the polymerization!
8qt Dutchie, lid, and 12" fry pan: each warmed over a burner, oiled with flaxseed oil and worked in as well as soaked up the sides of pan and Dutchie, then wiped down and put in cold oven, heated with oven to 550 and will bake for one hour, then let cool in over for at least 2 hours, but realistically they'll stay there for the rest of the day.
BTW, here's round 3 of flax oil and baking in the polymerization!
8qt Dutchie, lid, and 12" fry pan: each warmed over a burner, oiled with flaxseed oil and worked in as well as soaked up the sides of pan and Dutchie, then wiped down and put in cold oven, heated with oven to 550 and will bake for one hour, then let cool in over for at least 2 hours, but realistically they'll stay there for the rest of the day.
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- #376
$16
BAM (now when. . . . )It's in a really awkward spot to try to hammer it back easily.
I cut my bolts flush so they dont extend past the nut. If i have to take them off, I'll be replacing them with a grade 8 stud with allen recess. Similar to a wheel stud.
Another thought was to mark the length where the nut sits, remove the nut, cut the shank, then slot the shank end with a thin cut off wheel, taper, then reinstall the nut. You could install and remove the shank with a screw driver and the nut would sit flush with the mount.
The factory design is just begging for the treatment you gave it! They're like little anchors.
Another thought was to mark the length where the nut sits, remove the nut, cut the shank, then slot the shank end with a thin cut off wheel, taper, then reinstall the nut. You could install and remove the shank with a screw driver and the nut would sit flush with the mount.
The factory design is just begging for the treatment you gave it! They're like little anchors.
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- #378
Rhino-rack pioneer platform length comparison.
this is a 76" pioneer platform (with optional front and side rail kit) on the Rhino-rack backbone (on a 460 I saw in town yesterday)
and here's the 86" pioneer platform (with a wind fairing) on the Rhino-rack backbone on a 470
this is a 76" pioneer platform (with optional front and side rail kit) on the Rhino-rack backbone (on a 460 I saw in town yesterday)
and here's the 86" pioneer platform (with a wind fairing) on the Rhino-rack backbone on a 470
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- #380
Fabbed crossbars for the Rhino-rack platform to mount the Rhino-rack roof box using 11/16" unistrut and it's hardware (1/4" washer plates and 3/8" camming nuts and bolts.
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