Downey e-locker conversion (1 Viewer)

Joined
Dec 31, 2009
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42
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SLO, California
 
 
So I am aware that Downey Off Road has been out of business for a few years now but does anyone know if anyone has a similar conversion. My head is spinning with locker options, right now and well to say the least I don't have 1200 to drop on one ARB let alone two. I was originally planning on aussies front and back but now I'm considering other options.

I like the idea of staying mechanical over electric, I feel like theres less points of failure and less modifications needed. I think now I would like aussies or possibly auburns (don't know much about them) in the back and an 80's e-locker with the cable locker conversion for the front?? From what I could find it's pretty much plug and play for the most part. Correct me if I wrong though.

I don't have loads of money to spend so cheaper is better, but I also want to do things right the first time and not have to redo it in the future, so a healthy in between is what I'm looking for. It sounds like selectable lockers up front is the way to go and something like selectable lockers or lsd's in the back are best. I think the simpilar things are the less chances of failure there are too.

IDk let me know what you guys think, I love this forum and I've asked my share of dumb questions, and you have all been great. So thanks in advance.
 
Joined
Oct 31, 2003
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2,311
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MT
 
 
As far as nitpicking goes with the cable conversion on the diff, it takes a a little fidgeting to get it to lock. The locking mechanism in the diff has to be lined up to engage and that only happens every 30-45 degrees of rotation. So unlike the ARB which engages almost instantly the e-locker has to have some slip happening to engage quickly. There is no detent to hold it in or out, but this has never posed a problem. It might be worth considering upgrading your birfs/axleshafts when you put in the locker, you can get long splined Longfields that should make the front end as worry free as you can get with a Toyota axle.

That being said it is a very simple system and the biggest problem I had was routing the cable.
 

ntsqd

technerd
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
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Upper So. CA
 
 
I went with ARB's but not their solenoids or compressor. I am planning to use industrial pneumatic switches to turn the lockers on and off, and use a regulated source from an engine driven OBA system. I have the ARB's (& gears, bearings, etc.), got it all from Cruiser Outfitters but I don't think that it was $1200 for each ARB unit. Just looked, Kurt's price is still what I paid, quite a bit less than $1200 per unit.
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
42
Location
SLO, California
 
 
Bret, do you have a write up on yours? that would be great. I've been looking and it's tough to find anything on cable lockers, let alone the conversion. Do you know if it requires new shafts, or can i use the old ones for the time being?
 

RockDoc

I'll take Bruce Vilanch for the block.
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
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7,073
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Isle of Lucy
 
 
You will require a new long side inner shaft that has longer spines for the locking collar (for/from a locked HJ61, or a custom shaft). You can get Longfield shafts, but IIRC, you will have to step up to a 30 spine set (i.e. get a full set with new birfs)
 
Joined
Oct 31, 2003
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2,311
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MT
 
 
I didn't do a write up. If I recall there is a thread or two that cover the locker install. Like Rocdoc said you need the long spline shaft. I went with 30 splines because I didn't want to have to deal with the drama of breaking a inner axle or birf. The locker install is very straight forward, you clearance the housing to clear the locking mechanism and bolt it up. Be sure to not unlock the diff without the axle in place (or a broomstick) or it can bring on some suck. The cable part was a bolt on affair after the electric actuator was removed.

Let me know what pics you want and I can go take a couple.
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
42
Location
SLO, California
 
 
If you want to send me some of how you hooked up the cables and maybe what you had to do to the third that would be great. I just read about the idea and was having trouble finding much in the area so I thought I'd throw it out there and see what I get. Thanks for all the help. I've read on yota tech about needing new studs, is this true for the 60's axel or is that just for the toyota trucks?
 

GLTHFJ60

Rum Runnin'
SILVER Star
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Apr 18, 2005
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Durham, NC
 
 
 
I put an 80 rear e-locker in the back of my 60. I already had PP rear shafts ( came with long spline ) and it's in a FF axle, which is a requirement. Your stock front axle should be considered full floating and will work perfectly.
 

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