Down the rabbit hole... 1995 FJ80 Progress Thread (1 Viewer)

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Yes it would be worthwhile to have the brakes bled, if nothing else to change the fluid, as it is hygroscopic and attracts water that then corrodes inside the system.

Change your fluids. If the knuckle grease and diff fluid mix, that's called Birf soup and it is time for your front axle rebuild, but it's not catastrophic. Make sure you clean out the differential vent and hose and fittings.

If you can run a screwdriver, buy and change out hoses as you can. PCV Valve and hose. Throttle body hose, vacuum hoses, intake hose (if needed)

Do the front axle all at once then, or just fill/change fluids. It won't hurt to change them again later.

If you're looking for longevity and all OEM, then go with OEM parts wherever you can.

Do the leaks on the engine all at once. Most of those require common parts to be removed.

Get your exhaust done to meet emissions.

And....This truck is and FZJ80, not an FJ80.

FZJ80 made 93-97 in USA, has the 1FZ-FE engine.
FJ80 made 91-92 in USA, has the 3FE engine.

The transmissions are different between the two ranges of 91-94, and 95-97.

91-92 have different rear axles and all brakes than the 93-97.

So, please refer to it in its correct designation. 95 FZJ80, production date MM/YY. My 96 was made 08/95
 
Thank you! FZJ80 from now and on!

Following the concept of what you laid out-

Decided to order this off cruiserparts.net to try to remain with an OEM unit and at least recycle my part.


Having it delivered to the shop where they will go ahead and replace the valve gasket, spark plug gasket, and sparks. The power steering gear will be replaced along with PCV, OEM Belts, and possible some things that comes up when its in the shop.

The specialist seems to say the major leak he sees is coming from where the valve cover gasket and the busted power steering gear but not anywhere else. The bearings and brakes are good to go. Recommends fresh fluids and leaking shocks as of now.

Then when that Phase 1 is complete- will move on to the next which will be new shocks all around (OEM) along with all OEM fluids after all flushes/replacements (Tranny, Coolant, Differential, Transfer, brakes)

Then its probably going to get a grease fill up for the time moment myself along with sourcing some exhaust leak welds. The owner told me I have 6 months old gas sitting in there so I may need to add fuel treatment and fresh gas fill up and clean the engine out when its ready to drive.

Can't decide between Falken Wildpeaks or Yokohima Geolanders... Leaning towards Falkens right now. Would be in 265s

Will update the part prices/labor prices when I get it finalized...

When I get it back from all of the repairs- will probably grab some simple green and clean the underneath of the truck completely along with an engine cleaning so I can monitor the engine/components for any further issues...
Good luck with that. I hope you get the part and it actually works. Look up their reputation on here.
 
The fill plug is on the upper right in that pic. The square head plug.

They look a bit dry.

Get a couple tubes of Valvoline Palladium and a cheap harbor freight grease gun and put about half a tube in each side then drive it and see if the look changes.

Clean off the plug with a wire brush, clean off the dirt, unscrew it and stick the grease gun nozzle in there and pump away. Depending on the gun it could be 40 pumps or 200 pumps.


Don’t forget to research how and where to grease those U joints if it hasn’t been done!

Check that spare tire too
 
Ordered this list -

Valvoline Palladium Grease
Grease Gun
LocknLube
Falkens 265/75/16 (5)
OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner
Wagner 9011s

Will be picking up VC120 from a local Autozone as well.

Exhaust Weld job has been completed. The noise seems to be gone by now.

A bit of an issue with the mechanic..... It could be the mechanic or it could be the part supplied by LandCruiserParts-

The mechanic told me the car was ready to be picked up- the steering wheel is out of the center and I needed to get an alignment along with the power steering working right when it is at least 1500 RPMs- He said it is safe to drive home.

I went and looked at the wheel- it is now off center and the power steering was so hard to turn. The mechanic said it may need some breaking in. I am not sure about that.

I drove it around- the powersteering actually did improve then randomly cuts out so I am wondering if there are any air stuck inside the system. It could be Power Steering Pump that failed or maybe the Power Steering Gear Box is a bad rebuild.

Will be returning the truck to the shop early next week after some discussion with the mechanic. He tried to pin that problem on me because I supplied the part but I told him I did that at his advice. Kind of a sticky situation right now. I am hoping it just needs more bleeding to get the power steering right.

Valve cover gasket, spark plug seals, new sparks, and new oil has been completed.

Will move on to fresh fluids and shocks up next.

When the tires gets here- will do a swap and do an alignment (Hoping to recenter the steering wheel?) along with adding grease to the Birfs and the drive train.

Am curious how the Emissions test will turn out when I get it there by end of the month.

Gotta chase them gremlins out eh?!
Very possible he did not get all the air out of the PS system.

Check your PS fluid level.
Make sure he used the CORRECT fluid. It should be Dexron 3 or 4, so it should be RED in color. If it's clear, he used the wrong fluid and needs to change it. (That is "power steering fluid" used on other cars and these don't like it)
If it has the correct fluid and the correct level, you can help bleed it by turning the wheel SLOWLY to and from lock left to lock right. If you get the front wheel off the ground, then do it with engine off and cycle both ways about 30 times.Then do it with engine running about 30 times.

Check fluid level between each 5 cycles until the level stabilizes.

Top off the fluid and test drive.

If you cannot get the front wheels off the ground find a big empty parking lot and drive slowly and steer full lock left to right in the same manner as above (may need your Dramamine for this) Again, check fluid level after every 5 cycles until it stabilizes.

Check fluid level with engine OFF or it will blow it out the top all over the engine compartment.
 
Passed Emissions today with flying colors!

I had the transmission fluid exchanged using the exchanger at a reputable shop. They cleared my differential fluids and transfer case out for fresh fluids. Coolant flushed to clean Toyota Red. Oxygen Sensor #2 was replaced and the sensor port had some extra work done due to rust in the area. That cleared out the Check Engine Light. The truck felt completely different with all fresh fluids in the system.

The vibration between 30-35 reduced greatly but its still there- will have the wheels checked for balance once again. Possibly some further alignment as the truck still pulls a bit right.

Considering asking this chain shop if they would like to issue a refund or attempt to perform adjustments as I was able to get a quote for the alignment at another shop that would probably do it perfect. Will see but alignment still needs some work.

Took it into the Emissions station and got my results back- The PO handed me an older emissions test from 2014 of the FZJ80- my current emissions results were 30% better all across the board. Am running Premium currently- will stay 90+ on the octane from now and on.

Still not satisfied with the steering wheel play- will work backwards by having alignment redone then may go back for the gear box to get the final adjustments in to reduce the play/pulling right right now.

Will monitor for any leaks if it shows up after all fluids were exchanged.

Considering buying and handling PHH right away along with the rear heater valve along with the coolant hoses around valve. Refill the coolant system after I get those replaced to just put in fresh parts before I even take it up the mountains.

Considering picking up a fresh OEM air filter - those washables ones to put in the filter. Need to try to replace the wipers but trying to find out if the windshield wipers are OEM Toyota or not.

May grab 4 shocks and tools I need maybe a buddy in exchange for dinner and brews to help me swap out the shocks all around the truck as the current ones are bleeding and seems to me to be OEM.

Am curious how the MPG is going to land at initially after I get everything completed for a full tank of gas.

Will post up pictures of everything that has been done so far on the truck next post.
I suggest you fix the worn parts before you do any alignment stuff or you'll just be throwing away money.

The only thing that is adjustable is the toe in and that's the tie rod behind the front axle. You will also adjust the drag link to straighten up the steering wheel.
Make sure you spray PB blaster on the threaded ends of the tie rods and drag link to get them soaking now.
 
The tie rod ends might be worn out too, so check those for play.

On the vibration-is it low Hz (tire balance) or high Hz (driveshafts)?

Congrats on passing emissions-that can sometimes be a big hurdle!

Check the tuna can on the air cleaner housing and empty it of dirt as well.

Look up Rising Sun, the club is local to you.

Glad to see your enthusiasm with jumping right in!
 
It seems you can feel the vibration, so I’m just curious if it’s high or low frequency.
 

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