Double Cardan Driveshaft and Slinky

Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
57
Location
San Diego
Hello All,
I have a slinky 3in lift and the expected drive line vibration up front after correcting caster 5deg with dobson plates. Currently I've been driving with the front shaft removed and all the vibrations are gone. Over the weekend I picked up a rear driveshaft off an '01 Tacoma ext cab to re-tube. When I jack the truck up by the frame so the front axle is hanging at max droop and put that shaft up to the transfer case flange, it appears the DC joint is at or slightly past maximum angle to align with the pinion flange. Have people had success with the Toyota DC joint with slinky springs and shocks? What are people running on a 4-6in lift to get enough angle out of the DC joint? I would have expected to have a few deg of "extra capacity" in the joint to account for axle wrap, etc so the shaft doesn't go into bending.
 

HDJdreams

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Rocky Mountains
I have “3 inch” Slinky Intermediates, ARB but no winch. I had to get the DC shaft and 4 inch Delta Radius Arms. Now the pinion is perfectly aligned with DC shaft.
 

Box Rocket

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The DC shaft that I have is one using a Spicer DC joint so I can't answer directly regarding the Toyota joint. But I haven't had any issues with joint binding at full droop.

Also, your radius arms won't allow axle wrap unless you only have one bolt in the front of the radius arms. With both bolts in the radius arm at the axle, the axle can't rotate and have axle wrap the same way a leaf sprung axle will.
 
Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
57
Location
San Diego
I have “3 inch” Slinky Intermediates, ARB but no winch. I had to get the DC shaft and 4 inch Delta Radius Arms. Now the pinion is perfectly aligned with DC shaft.
What DC shaft did you use? I have no doubt the DC shaft will correct the vibration as my pinion is pointed towards the DC joint so the drive line angle is about right for a DC setup, but I'm worried at max droop the DC joint does not have enough angle to stop it from maxing out and binding the joint.
 
Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
57
Location
San Diego
The DC shaft that I have is one using a Spicer DC joint so I can't answer directly regarding the Toyota joint. But I haven't had any issues with joint binding at full droop.

Also, your radius arms won't allow axle wrap unless you only have one bolt in the front of the radius arms. With both bolts in the radius arm at the axle, the axle can't rotate and have axle wrap the same way a leaf sprung axle will.
Thanks Adam, good info. How does the Spicer setup hold up as far as wear and tear goes? I'm more or less wondering if the Toyota setup works angle wise or if I need to go to something with a little more angle ability (not sure if the Spicer joint has more angle). The Spicer is rebuild-able correct? Got a PN for the joint? I might do some digging and see how the angles compare.
 

Box Rocket

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Thanks Adam, good info. How does the Spicer setup hold up as far as wear and tear goes? I'm more or less wondering if the Toyota setup works angle wise or if I need to go to something with a little more angle ability (not sure if the Spicer joint has more angle). The Spicer is rebuild-able correct? Got a PN for the joint? I might do some digging and see how the angles compare.
I had the DC shaft custom built by a local driveline shop almost a decade ago for my previous 80. I moved it to my current 80 when I got it. It probably has well over 100K miles on it with LOTS of wheeling. The ujoints can be replaced just like any other. I don't have a part number, sorry. Been way too long for my feeble mind to remember. :hillbilly:
 

NLXTACY

Wits' End
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To date, I have now 7 customers that originally went the Spicer DC option and switched to the LANDTANK DC setup instead. Those are just the customers that offered up the commentary. The ball binding wasn't one of the feedback notes FWIW.
 

Box Rocket

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To date, I have now 7 customers that originally went the Spicer DC option and switched to the LANDTANK DC setup instead. Those are just the customers that offered up the commentary. The ball binding wasn't one of the feedback notes FWIW.
I plan to do the same once my current Spicer one presents any problems. To be honest I thought I'd have needed to replace joints or something before now but it's lasted longer than I expected. But at some point it will get replaced with a Landtank DC shaft from Wits End.
 

NLXTACY

Wits' End
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I plan to do the same once my current Spicer one presents any problems. To be honest I thought I'd have needed to replace joints or something before now but it's lasted longer than I expected. But at some point it will get replaced with a Landtank DC shaft from Wits End.
As I'm sure most notice, I'm not one to say what is better or worse very often when it comes to something I sell/manufacture. There are always more than one way to skin a cat. But the joints do seem to fail far more often than an OEM joint would ever, if ever. I had one customer that replaced three joints in one year on a 4" lift. He said that although he appreciates that the Spicer joints are available everywhere, it wasn't worth the aggravation to change u-joints more often that changing his oil.
 
Joined
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San Diego
To date, I have now 7 customers that originally went the Spicer DC option and switched to the LANDTANK DC setup instead. Those are just the customers that offered up the commentary. The ball binding wasn't one of the feedback notes FWIW.
Thanks @NLXTACY , so the driveshafts you offer haven't shown any binding issues with lifts in the 4-6in range? I'm using the same taco joint so mis-alignment performance should be the same. Since my donor shaft is stock taco length right now I have to pull the shaft apart at the slip joint to get it short enough to hold in place under the truck. With that I don't have a perfect measurement, but the angle did seem to be right about on the edge of the ability of the joint so that's why I'm looking for some real world experience with the setup before having it re-tubed.
 
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Israel
4" lift just installed DC no angle at all when the front axle fully down on the lift, very quiet 100 miles no vibration and all noises disappeared

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landtank

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i thonk its important to understand that unless you are jumping the truck or rolling over the shaft won't see those angles.

Typically at least one of the front tires are on the ground and that one tire carries all the weight and compresses so at the pumpkin the changes is less than max
 
Joined
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San Diego
i thonk its important to understand that unless you are jumping the truck or rolling over the shaft won't see those angles.

Typically at least one of the front tires are on the ground and that one tire carries all the weight and compresses so at the pumpkin the changes is less than max
I agree landtank, but ideally it shouldn't be the drive line that bottoms out before the limit stops regardless of how likely it is to happen.

Below are some images of the shaft installed on the transfer case side hanging down at the max angle of the DC joint. I put some welding rod into the pilot hole on the shaft to show center. As you can see it is about centered with the pinion or just slightly below. With that I'd say its right on the line of running out of travel, especially when the axle is moving dynamically. Since it sounds like no one has experienced a binding issue with similar setups and it looks to be just slightly below I think I'm going to go with it. Thanks for the input guys!






 

landtank

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there are 2 different CV joints that toyota uses on the tocoma shafts. A large joint and a smaller joint. One might have more movement over the other but im not sure
 

Tools R Us

 
 
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i thonk its important to understand that unless you are jumping the truck or rolling over the shaft won't see those angles.
...
Or if you are going to wheel it? Like any other suspension mod, it should be checked for bind in the full range of travel. CV joints have less travel than most standard joints, and some have more than others, may require grinding for clearance, suspension travel change, limit straps, etc.

CV_angle.jpg
 

landtank

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Or if you are going to wheel it? Like any other suspension mod, it should be checked for bind in the full range of travel. CV joints have less travel than most standard joints, and some have more than others, may require grinding for clearance, suspension travel change, limit straps, etc.

View attachment 1879891
your right of course, not sure what i was thinking.
 
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