Door won’t open (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 11, 2016
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Location
Snohomish WA
So today I was in -10 to +5 Fahrenheit temps. I went to roll down my window but it wasn’t working. Come to find out, condensation froze my window to the door. I heard a couple loud “pop”s and my window came out of the rail and the regulator busted some plastic pieces inside.

I can’t get my door to open, inside latch doesn’t work, door handle doesn’t work, manual lock switch won’t even move. Window is out of the car but I can’t figure out how to open the door. Any advice?
 
I’m currently getting in and out through the passenger side and my window rail is bent so the window won’t roll up completely.
 
I’m currently getting in and out through the passenger side and my window rail is bent so the window won’t roll up completely.
You may need to remove the (4) bolts to remove the driver's seat and drag it out the rear door so you can remove the interior panel on the front door. All the mechanism for the door latch / handles are towards the rear of the door. You need to access the interior of the door and you must remove the panel to get there.
 
You may need to remove the (4) bolts to remove the driver's seat and drag it out the rear door so you can remove the interior panel on the front door. All the mechanism for the door latch / handles are towards the rear of the door. You need to access the interior of the door and you must remove the panel to get there.
Can you remove the panel with the door shut? The edges that need to be pryed are blocked by body/interior trim. Not to mention the speaker is 1/3 blocked by the dash and I can’t remove the speaker cover to get to the actual screws
 
Can you remove the panel with the door shut? The edges that need to be pryed are blocked by body/interior trim. Not to mention the speaker is 1/3 blocked by the dash and I can’t remove the speaker cover to get to the actual screws
I didn't say it would be clean or easy. I do know other folks have done it.

The clips are up behind the area where the speaker is and the panel must be pulled up to come out. There may be some carnage done when doing this. but, if the exterior handle doesn't work and the interior handle doesn't work and the door lock doesn't move, then something is broken, jammed, or disconnected and there is only one solution.

It's possible that the lower window track popped off and broke or disconnected the handle rod that goes from from to back and also disconnected the rod for the lock, thus making it so the outside handle doesn't work.

Try using your key in the door to unlock it, then using the outside door handle. Maybe you can get it to release that way.
 
I didn't say it would be clean or easy. I do know other folks have done it.

The clips are up behind the area where the speaker is and the panel must be pulled up to come out. There may be some carnage done when doing this. but, if the exterior handle doesn't work and the interior handle doesn't work and the door lock doesn't move, then something is broken, jammed, or disconnected and there is only one solution.

It's possible that the lower window track popped off and broke or disconnected the handle rod that goes from from to back and also disconnected the rod for the lock, thus making it so the outside handle doesn't work.

Try using your key in the door to unlock it, then using the outside door handle. Maybe you can get it to release
Tried using the key in the door, nothing.

It does look like the window came off track and somehow damaged stuff. Looking down where the window comes up from im pretty sure the plastic arm that holds the rod on the outer door handle is broken

Welp, time to start taking the seat out I guess.

There’s no possibility of pressing or pulling on any lever/rod through the opening at the top of the door for the window?
 
Tried using the key in the door, nothing.

It does look like the window came off track and somehow damaged stuff. Looking down where the window comes up from im pretty sure the plastic arm that holds the rod on the outer door handle is broken

Welp, time to start taking the seat out I guess.

There’s no possibility of pressing or pulling on any lever/rod through the opening at the top of the door for the window?
If you can use a three prong flexible "grabber" (pickup tool) to get hold of the rod from above, it may be worth a try to yank it forward or back to release the lock for the outside handle to finally operate.

Yes, if you can see it, I would definitely try that first.

I may even go as far as removing the passenger door panel so I can see how it is all connected so I fully understand which direction I need to yank on the parts for the maximum benefit the FIRST time. That might give you a better idea of what is actually dislocated.

 
If you can use a three prong flexible "grabber" (pickup tool) to get hold of the rod from above, it may be worth a try to yank it forward or back to release the lock for the outside handle to finally operate.

Yes, if you can see it, I would definitely try that first.

I may even go as far as removing the passenger door panel so I can see how it is all connected so I fully understand which direction I need to yank on the parts for the maximum benefit the FIRST time. That might give you a better idea of what is actually dislocated.

I was thinking about taking the passenger side apart to get a better visual.

After talking to a local shop a few minutes ago, it sounds like I was on the right track as far as what rod to mess with, seem like it’s more of a matter of just getting the right pressure/angle. I’m probably gonna go that route for a few hours before I decide to potentially cause other damage removing the panel from inside. May not have a choice though……. Maybe with less beer today 🤣
 
I had to go through an unopenable door with the front passenger door on my 80 and was able to remove the door panel with the door closed.
  • pulled the passenger front seat.
    • I think you can just unbolt it, tilt it up, unplug the electrical connector and then tilt/slide the seat out of the way without fully removing it from the 80, but whatever works as long as it's out of the way.
  • pulled the interior door panel using various trim tools and a bit of care without any damage to it or the door/interior.
    • Once all of the trim clips are popped free the door panel has to travel up to disengage the upper lip.
    • You can carefully pull the lower rear corner out to get access to the wiring connectors but I can't remember if you need to disconn. those before or after getting the top edge free.
Once the door panel is free you can get the door open to proceed with repairs. Drivers door will likely be a little tighter with steering wheel in place but should be doable.

Some of us have had a little spring break in the door latch mechanism. What happens is that one of the end loops snaps off preventing that part of the mech to return, leaving the door unopenable. You have to pull the mech. out to find/see the spring but if you find this issue in your door mech. you can simply bend the last loop of the spring up to make a new hook and then re-attach. I did that years ago and have had no issues since.
 
I had to go through an unopenable door with the front passenger door on my 80 and was able to remove the door panel with the door closed.
  • pulled the passenger front seat.
    • I think you can just unbolt it, tilt it up, unplug the electrical connector and then tilt/slide the seat out of the way without fully removing it from the 80, but whatever works as long as it's out of the way.
  • pulled the interior door panel using various trim tools and a bit of care without any damage to it or the door/interior.
    • Once all of the trim clips are popped free the door panel has to travel up to disengage the upper lip.
    • You can carefully pull the lower rear corner out to get access to the wiring connectors but I can't remember if you need to disconn. those before or after getting the top edge free.
Once the door panel is free you can get the door open to proceed with repairs. Drivers door will likely be a little tighter with steering wheel in place but should be doable.

Some of us have had a little spring break in the door latch mechanism. What happens is that one of the end loops snaps off preventing that part of the mech to return, leaving the door unopenable. You have to pull the mech. out to find/see the spring but if you find this issue in your door mech. you can simply bend the last loop of the spring up to make a new hook and then re-attach. I did that years ago and have had no issues since.
So it was tight, I removed the kick panel in order to get the control switches and aftermarket speaker out. I’ve got all the screws and stuff out, I just can’t figure out how to pop the clips around the edge in order to pull the panel up. Once I get that figured out, I’m home free essentially.

I have a clip tool but can’t figure out how to get in there
 
So it was tight, I removed the kick panel in order to get the control switches and aftermarket speaker out. I’ve got all the screws and stuff out, I just can’t figure out how to pop the clips around the edge in order to pull the panel up. Once I get that figured out, I’m home free essentially.

I have a clip tool but can’t figure out how to get in there
Use the tool that's bent 90° like a Wonderbar and hook it behind the panel and pull straight towards you or twist it so it pulls out on the opanel at a right angle to the clips. I think there are 4 along the bottom and three up front and rear.
Tool like the left side of the picture.

 
How you get the clips out will depend on the tools you have. Definitely be careful to work close to the clips to minimize damage to the door card.

Once you get the rear edge/corner popped out you can use something long and flat to push between door/card and then twist to pry the two apart.

If you break any of the clip holes on the door card you can later repair them by pushing them back into shape and applying thin super glue. I've done this proactively on all of my door cards even though they weren't broken.
 
The space is tight but I would pull the bottom of the panel free and lever from the inside. You can reach in there and pop the pins from the center of the door. I have had to do this before and I used a metal spatula (don't tell my wife) because it was long and readily available and the one I had had a slight bend that helped.
 
Thanks guys. I was actually able to get the door to open. Don’t ask me how, I feel like I did the same thing time and time before, I just pulled on the inner door handle while messing around and it popped open. Basically just pulled all the way over on the door latch rod, pushed down on the door handle rod, and pulled the inside latch. I’m wondering if a piece of plastic that broke got wedged in there somewhere

Time to investigate what’s broken now
 
Could the door automatically unlocking be because of this cut green wire?

C62444EE-5061-427A-B81C-CE2134916EC2.jpeg
 
Can you tell how that damage occurred, from a tool used to try to open the door or from a loose/broken regulator arm??
 
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Can you tell how that damage occurred, from a tool used to try to open the door or from a loose/broken regulator arm??
There’s numerous factors over the years. First my regulator went out, replaced it, adjusted it wrong. The tabs on the rail that hold the window got bent (metal softened up). Happened again and I made a bracket to stiffen it up. But the nail in the coffin was negative temps plus condensation and me trying to roll the window down before it was warmed up. Then I played with the switches too much and the window jumped off track, the regulator was going up and down putting tension on plastic pieces. Next thing you know I literally heard pieces breaking and falling apart while sitting still in a parking lot

It was probably around 0-5 (the low temp that day was -15) degrees when I tried rolling the window down. I was up snowboarding and here in Washington it’s rare to get that cold. So I just did it out of muscle memory to avoid locking my keys in the car (which I’ve done before) while it’s warming up
 
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If money is tight there's an AISIN window regulator/motor combo sold by Rockauto for only $80.


Fix the broken wire (solder and adhesive lined heat shrink tubing) and you should be good to go.
 

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