Door Jam Rustproofing and then some (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 18, 2004
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Maple Grove MN
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www.geocities.com
Hey now..

Anybody ever try Bar and Chain oil for spaying in the door jams and around underneath?

I hear it is pretty darn good for rust proofing..and that it kills the rust becuase of the phosphoric acid.. makes it turn all black..

Anyone try something like this? I'm actually about to do it myself.. What have I got to lose? I live here in the North East and I can't sleep at nights thinking about those ever materializing rust spots that seem to magically appear on some days.

This is war.
 
Hmmm ...

Well I'm no chemist but ... phosphoric acid is the same active ingredient in Navel Jelly which will change rust black.

Bar and Chain oil would be an interesting approach. More importantly what have you thought up for dispersion of the material ???

Cahil
 
Dispersion of the material?

Haven't tried it just yet.. but was thinking of either a paint spray gun using a compressor or a container with a hand pump and a spray wand.

You can buy the containers with the hand pump and spray wand at any home depot... lowes.. etc... They are usually used for either weedkiller stuff or wallpaper removal..
 
any hardware store, or lawn and garden place that sells chain saws. I know that Home Depot has it!

Zack
 
Great idea but I use the stuff every day at work and it is thick stuff, not sure you will do it with a hand pump like the ones used for lawn garden work, best bet would be a modified paint sprayer with the nozzel boared out a bit larger and run her high on the pressure end of things, may do this myself, thansk for the idea
 
on a further note..

You have to get the good stuff.. Husqvarna premium bar and chain oil is the best. Lowes has it.. Home Depot doesn't.

It's still cheap.. about 7.50 for a gallon and you can do your whole frame and doors with no problem.

I've even heard of guys drilling little holes in their dorrs and squirting the stuff in.. It dries to a film after several days, I guess.

I'm just hoping my hand pump works.. I may have to modify the sprayer by making the hole a little bigger sa like the guy said before.. the stuff is a little thicker than water (I bought a hand pump from Lowes)
 
I see no reason why it couldn't be painted on with a brush..

Just seems like it would take awhile.. and it would go on more evenly with a sprayer... but believe me.. if my plan with the sprayer falls through.. I have lots of small brushes
 
cool deal. I only have a couple of surface spots on the frame that I would like to kill, so for my purposes I think spraying would be overkill. keep us posted on the results.
 
I believe my buddy Jason paints his frame with B&C oil every fall )after a good wash and wire brushing.) I am planning to do the same with my 4runner.

A truck I looked at recently had a film of White Litheum Greese on all the door jams.

Would make for messy regualr entry and exit but the jams were mint. (this was an 86 that had been sitting for a long time, too.)
 
I found I had to use a brush to spread it evenly and thinly in the doors and under the wheel wells

The sprayer I had didn't work the way I wanted it to.

Realistically I need it to spray out in order to do the frame... I have more to figure out with this whole thing, I guess
 
bar'n chain

I use "chain and cable lube" from Napa. It comes in a spray can.

I use it to coat my frame, and any other metal parts that may be prone to rust. I also use it to lubricate my leaf springs.

You can also use "open gear lube" from Napa. This stuff is heavier and thicker, and does not penetrate as well as the Chain and Cable. I only use Open gear on flat, un-rusted metal.

JR
 

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