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door dent

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by red66toy, Oct 27, 2003.

  1. red66toy

    red66toy dorkus malorkus GOLD Star

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    I was wondering how hard it would be to fix a dent in a early style hard door. I have no experience with body work. Can I just pound it out? The dent is not so bad that I can't roll up the window but I want it to look nice. I have attached and image that I marked were the dent is( this is not my door). Thanks.
     
  2. tlcgear

    tlcgear

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    I can tell with that picture how bad the dent is so I would try pounging it out or actually buying a tool to do it and just bondo the hell out of it. I didn't body work either when I did my car and yes I screwed up some part but I got better. If you don't like how it looks just sand it off and try again.

    - Rico.
     
  3. red66toy

    red66toy dorkus malorkus GOLD Star

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    I just realized that there is really no way to get a hammer in the door and be able to swing it. So bondo is my only choice?
     
  4. tlcgear

    tlcgear

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    you can either bondo, or cut that piece out and weld a new piece on. Then grind the seams.

    - Rico.
     
  5. Degnol

    Degnol

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    WOAH!!!!
    If you look at the raised rib in the middle of the door, I'll bet you see a crease. The crease is more than likely the culprit holding the dent. You should be able to go thru the access paned with a big screwdriver or rod and hit it with a hammer right on the crease. Should pop out.

    Never beat on sheet metal without a dolly on the other side, you may stretch the metal.

    Don't fill it up with Bondo. It should be an easy fix.

    Ed Long
     
  6. red66toy

    red66toy dorkus malorkus GOLD Star

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    This may sound dumb but what is a dolly?
     
  7. IDave

    IDave

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    often dents are fixed by drilling a small hole in them and PULLing them out, rather than banging them from the inside, using what is called a dent puller, available from your friendly NAPA guys. You then just fill the hole and paint. I think the Chilton manual describes the procedure well.
     
  8. fsusteve

    fsusteve

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    There's different shapes and sizes, but basically a dolly is a sheetmetal tool used in conjunction with a body hammer (not sure of correct terminology). You tap one side of the dent with the hammer while holding the dolly on the other side. I'm no bodyman, but I believe it keeps the metal from creasing. I'm sure others know more.
     
  9. red66toy

    red66toy dorkus malorkus GOLD Star

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    Thanks for the help guys.
     
  10. Dianna

    Dianna

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    I didn't think the "drilling-holes" method was still used, well, at least it's not in this area where your car turns white from the film of salt in the winter!!! They usually spot weld some metal pullers to get the dent out... when you can't reach it from the inside.
     
  11. toddslater

    toddslater

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    Dianna's got that right...the shoot and pull dent pullers are old school...I wouldn't use one anymore. The spot weld type pullers are not cost effective for a one time (or even several time) dent pulls. If you can't attack it as Degnol points out above or by using a porta power with the tight spot wedge to push it out from the inside.....then a twist on the new style spot welded dent puller could be achieve using some small eye bolts and a mig. Tack them along the deep crease of the dent and gently pull it out relieving it and working it with the hammer and dollies. Once you get it near, use a cut off wheel to remove your little eye bolts...grind off the excess weld with 36 grit on your BMF grinder and finish floating it out with bondo.
     
  12. red66toy

    red66toy dorkus malorkus GOLD Star

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    I don't own a welder or know anyone that has one. So would I have to take it to a shop and have them do it? I can imagine they would charge a lot for nothing.
     
  13. IDave

    IDave

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    "Old school", hmm? Hey, I suppose you think carburetors and distributors and drum brakes are old school, too. Also, frames that hold up to a 5 mph bump. Well, some of us LIKE old school. That's why we drive FJ40s instead of mall heeps.

    I suspect successful drill/puller repairs were done by the millions when FJ40s were young, even in the salt belt, and for a hell of a lot less money than the current 1000 dollar deductable jobs the professionals do today in collusion with the insurance industry.

    It is still an option.
     
  14. red66toy

    red66toy dorkus malorkus GOLD Star

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    Kragen sells a slide hammer for $12 and NAPA sells one for $70. Would the $12 be fine. Do you think it will be crap?
     
  15. Degnol

    Degnol

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    Popular Topic!!!!
    OK the "Dolly" is a hand held anvil, about 2lbs in weight and several shapes. They are made of tool steel and a decent one costs about $25. The hammer is a "Pick" hammer. Ususally a flat faced head on one side and a pointy pick on the other. You hold the "dolly" on the opposite side of where you want to hit it with the hammer, effectively limiting your hammer blow, if that makes sense.
    From the picture you provided, there is VERY little hammering, beating and cajoling that has to be done to remove that dent.
    Take a 30 pack of Busch Light to a local body shop about closing time and show the dent to a dusty guy headed for his pickup (It'll be the one with the primer on it) and ask him how you would fix it. Chances are, hell fix it right before your eyes. PAY ATTENTION! You'll learn something.
    OR... I'm in Kansas City (Chiefs are 8-0...BFD) and being that 30 pack over here and I'll show you how to get it straight...you'll leave in primer.
    Fixing this dent will EMPOWER YOU!
    Seriously, Good Luck, network and be willing to schmooze and you'll get it done.
    Ed Long ;)
     
  16. toddslater

    toddslater

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    Yep old school...and yep Dave I did it that way back in the 70's....was never so happy as to use the BMF spring loaded slide hammer....just cock it ...give it a twist ..and kablam...shoot a nice hole in the subject du jour, give it a few turns to cinch up the threaded head and slide hammer away. Then when you've pulverized to no end, grab the "T" handled hook pullers and give it another go. ;) And as a matter of fact I do like carbs...my preference is multiple webers on 4 wheels and mikunis on two. :eek:

    I am convinced many a cruiser in the rust belt were straightened this way....if not it would be easy to find a rust free cruiser and CCOT et al. wouldn't sell any panels. :D

    red64toy, you are indeed in a tough spot...some of the most useful $100 to $150 tool dollars that I've spent was on a 10 ton hydraulic ram system/porto power. Pick up a Northern Tool catalogue and check them out, there is a speader included in the set that should be able to do the deed. Also pick up a hammer and dollie set...cheap. Or at this point buy another door.
     
  17. IDave

    IDave

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    Plenty lust in lust belt, not flum fix! :D

    Can he even get a hammer in there? I don't know how I'd get one in mine, of the same vintage.
     
  18. toddslater

    toddslater

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    True nuf...but IH8RUST and don't want to give that cancer on our cruisers any leeway.
     
  19. red66toy

    red66toy dorkus malorkus GOLD Star

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    I don't think the beer idea would work very well seeing as how I am only 19. I am in CA so Kansas is a little far but thanks for the offer. I don't think that there is anyway I am going to get a hammer in the door let alone be able to have a good range of motion. Well I guess I have no real good options. Either buy a new door, take it to a body guy, or buy a slide hammer kit. All lots of money. I would really like to do it myself but the kits are too expensive. Do you think a shop would give me a break if I played the poor college kid routine? ::)
    By the way that isn't my door in the pic. I just used that one as reference. Thanks.
     
  20. IDave

    IDave

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    [quote author=toddslater link=board=1;threadid=6817;start=msg56388#msg56388 date=1067401526]


    True nuf...but IH8RUST and don't want to give that cancer on our cruisers any leeway.
    [/quote]

    Ah, so tlue. Just tlying to give pool correge boy a bleak! :D