Doing the rear bearings (1 Viewer)

[CurtB]

Doing the rear bearings and seals this weekend I've been searching the forum.

Seems like an even split between buying/renting a slide hammer to remove the bearing, or, after removing both axles and the third member, running a steel pipe through from the opposite side and hammering it out.

The pipe method seems straightforward except I wasn't really planning on going that deep into the differential. What are the steps for removing enough to get a pipe through? The FSM takes an "all or nothing" approach....

 

[SteveH]

Seems like if you pulled both axles, you'd just drop the driveshaft and remove the 3rd member. But, it's heavy and awkward and adds time to the job - along with 2 gaskets, cleanup, etc. Seems like the slide hammer should work with less hassle.

 

[Godwin]

Pipe method.

1. Drain gear oil.
2. Pull diff cover.
3. Pull diff guts (block, cross pin, spider gears, etc.); have to do this anyway to pull axle shafts.
4. Pull axle shafts, assuming wheel and brake drum off.
5. Opening through the diff will now be wide enough to receive a long pipe for driving our the axle bearings.
6. Drive out axle bearings.
7. Install new stuff and reassemble.

**Note - no need to pull diff.

 

[vasellers]

watched a local mechanic remove mine with a giant puller,no way I could've gotten it out. Would have to work on it outside to have enough room to slide the pipe from one side to another.

 

[mwebfj60]

If you go the slide hammer route, make sure you find the right attachment that hooks in behind the bearing. There isn't much of a lip, and the standard set from the stores like Autozone are not the right size. Those bearings are in there tight. Hopefully someone will chime in with the right size.

When reinstalling, inspect the bearing and cage meticulously. Use a decent seal/race driver and ensure the bearing stays straight the whole way. When I did mine last, I had a bearing failure about 4 miles into the test drive....locked up the rear wheel at 55mph. We determined the cage must have had a defect or I damaged it when hammering it in. I'm very meticulous though and all seemed to go smoothly.

 

[CurtB]

Pipe method.

1. Drain gear oil.
2. Pull diff cover.
3. Pull diff guts (block, cross pin, spider gears, etc.); have to do this anyway to pull axle shafts.
4. Pull axle shafts, assuming wheel and brake drum off.
5. Opening through the diff will now be wide enough to receive a long pipe for driving our the axle bearings.
6. Drive out axle bearings.
7. Install new stuff and reassemble.

**Note - no need to pull diff.

Step 3 is what worries me. FSM says to just remove pinon shaft, spacer, and axle lock. What is involved with removing the rest of the guts?

 

[60Works]

You don't need to touch the pinion shaft, just the spiders.

I recommend getting a slide hammer. It's less likely to damage either the diff or the bearing seats. I also had to grind on the pulling attachment a little for it to fit correctly. If you borrow or rent this could cause problems.

 

[CurtB]

You don't need to touch the pinion shaft, just the spiders.

I recommend getting a slide hammer. It's less likely to damage either the diff or the bearing seats. I also had to grind on the pulling attachment a little for it to fit correctly. If you borrow or rent this could cause problems.

Anyone have the info on the puller that fits and works?

 

[60Works]

Here's what I have but there's no need to buy Snap-On for such a basic tool. Cheap HF will work.

The adapters screw onto the end of the slide. Note the grinding marks on the left adapter. I had to grind about a 1/16th" off each end to fit inside the axle housing. Be careful not to remove too much or the paddle won't fully engage the bearing race.

Good luck.

 

[Freewheel]

I went the cheap route and ended up breaking the slide hammer. The threads of the shaft were such cheap metal they sheared right out of the bearing hook. I then drilled a hole through the hook and shaft and put a pin through. Broke two pins before I got the bearing out.

So yes, it can be a bit of a struggle with a slide hammer, but it eventually worked.

 

[88red]

First time I did rear bearings I read all the pipe methods here on the forum thinking I was in for a struggle. Went to autozone, rented a slide hammer and bearing/seal driver set, and they were out in three or four swings. I put the new bearings on ice so they would go back in easily. I was really surprised by all the fuss over getting a long pipe, messing with the diff etc... etc... Stick with the slide hammer method, it was a piece of cake. I'd certainly would never want to take my rig to a shop and see a tech swinging a big ol pipe through my truck wondering if the bearing is coming out the other side.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I cut a block of 3/8" bar that fit inside the bearing from outside and twisted into position behind the bearing. I used it to beat the pipe against, but one could easily drill and tap the block and thread a bolt into it to use it as a puller...the pipe thru the diff was not bad. it's only metal...

 

[Godwin]

Variation on the pipe method. This works if the diff has been pulled and you have a bearing and seal driver set. Find the largest driver that will fit within and still clear the inside of the axle tube axle tube. Take a long 1"+ diameter wooden rod and use that to push the driver up behind the bearing. Whack on the end of the wooden rod to drive out the bearing.

Different techniques for whatever is on hand at the time. For me going to Auto/Advance/parts store to rent their tools is a pain, plus what they have may be lacking parts.

 

[stevebradford]

Wasent me but i remember someone on here built this slide hammer for doing this.

 

[CurtB]

The middle size puller from this set got it done with a slide hammer. Took about 5 hits and popped right out. No drama.
http://a.co/1zpvYx8

 

[Willard]

I did it with a good quality OTC 10lb slide hammer and what Juggernaught did on the grinding of the adapter. Worked like a charm and like CurtB said, about 5 hits and pop.

I used a HF Aluminum bearing tool to put it back in. New seals and away you go.

 

[Chocolyle]

I agree with Godwin. When I did mine I pulled the spider gears and used the pipe method, you need to drain the diff to change the bearings anyways.

Good reason to check on the a main part of the vehicle that makes you move! Plus it is really amazing to see what makes you move.

Stupid simple to come apart and then go back together. Time, maybe another 1/2 hour to 45 minutes. That a small percentage of the rest you need to do.

 

[Chocolyle]

Step 3 is what worries me. FSM says to just remove pinon shaft, spacer, and axle lock. What is involved with removing the rest of the guts?

Semi-float, pull two "C" clips, more like U clips. No tool needed. The rest pops out, take pics to put it back together, but it is really simple.

 

[Godwin]

Stupid simple to come apart and then go back together. .

Simple to go back together once you understand how to load the spider gears . Kind of a cool little puzzle and fascinating the way they work.

 

[60Works]

Make sure to get the bronze bushings back in place under each spider. Sometimes they slide down out of sight and reach, forcing you to undo and rotate to bring them up.