Doing rear brakes today - any last-minute tips? (1 Viewer)

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I've already watched this extremely helpful video and have pored over the FSM (though it doesn't seem to show how to replace rotors, I guess it assumes that everyone knows how to do that). I have a nice set of PowerStop K1155 pads and rotors with all the little sliding parts and rubbery bits. I'm not rebuilding the calipers, nor am I rebuilding the rear axle - not even bleeding the brakes (going to do that after I do the front axle). I'm just popping the tire off, taking the pads out of the caliper, then putting the caliper somewhere safe. Then, I'm taking the rotor off, lightly sanding the parking brake shoes, putting the new rotor on, and getting the pads back into the caliper and the caliper back on.

Sound about right? Anything I should look for? Maybe bad wheel studs? The only specific question I have is what I torque the actual rotor down to - I know what to torque the lug nuts to, but the FSM seems silent on proper torque for rotor bolts. I think it's 65 ft-lbs?

I know this is a super basic question, but I've never done this before - I'm sure we'll get it right, I'm not nervous, but just wanted to see if anyone had suggestions as to what I might watch out for in the process.

Thanks and sorry for cluttering the board with the basics.
 

Hornd

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  1. Make sure you grease the caliper pins with brake grease and I like to put some on the ears of the pads.
  2. Make sure everything is clean using the 2 cans of brake cleaner you bought.
  3. Remember to re-torque the wheels after 1K miles so you don't have to make a post about your wheel going into oncoming traffic.
 
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I don't know if this is "official mud" but the rear rotors are indeed indexed - note the position of the parking brake adjuster hole
or make some index marks with a sharpie so the rotor goes back on exactly as it was....

it is not a super big issue - but indeed I didn't note this and my rear rotors made this random clunking noise -
which baffled the fux out of me - tis always fun trying to root out odd noises from ones car
- I finally figured out my error....no biggie - but indeed don't make my mistake....

otherwise tis about a :banana: job - jack up - wheel off - 2 - 17mm caliper bolts

Bf
 
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When I was adjusting the parking brake yesterday with the rear wheels removed I noticed the rotor was "loose". There may normally be a small screw holding it in place (if so mine was missing) but the torque from the lug nuts is what holds everything together (no separate bolts to torque for the rotor).

Before tearing it apart (and once its apart) the tip I would offer is to clean everything up with brake cleaner. That will rinse away all of the brake dust and grime making for a cleaner working situation. Be sure to wear safety glasses and gloves when using brake cleaner (its a good idea in general). You'll also want to improvise something to hang the caliper from to take the strain off the brake line (coat hanger or bungee cord).

When it's all done be sure to follow the bedding in procedure specific to the brake pads you are using.
 
Joined
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I don't know if this is "official mud" but the rear rotors are indeed indexed - note the position of the parking brake adjuster hole
or make some index marks with a sharpie so the rotor goes back on exactly as it was....

it is not a super big issue - but indeed I didn't note this and my rear rotors made this random clunking noise -
which baffled the fux out of me - tis always fun trying to root out odd noises from ones car
- I finally figured out my error....no biggie - but indeed don't make my mistake....

otherwise tis about a :banana: job - jack up - wheel off - 2 - 17mm caliper bolts

Bf


They're new rotors, but as long as the hole in the rotor goes over the little star nut for the parking brake adjustment, have I indexed it right?
 

Beej

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make sure you get whatever tubing your using to fit snugly. If you're not using tubing and you think the brake fluid will just sort of drip into your jar or whatever, you should wear some goggles to protect your eyes, because you are wrong, it shoots out several feet when the bleeder is opened. Ask me how I know...
 

LandCruiserPhil

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Prior to adjusting the parking brake install 3 lug nuts (without the wheel) to keep the rotor tight during your adjustment. Pay attention to equal adjustment of both sides.

If you bleed your brakes many get poor results with the pump and dump method on an 80. Use a vac system like Might Vac for the best results. The bonus is it can be done without help.
 
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If you haven't bled the brakes before do a search..... it'll open a whole new can of worms in the forms of various opinions. Also start soaking the bleeder in PB blaster to make for easy removal. Here are my preferred tools for bleeding brakes:

One man bleeder (buy from the parts store for $5 or make your own)

upload_2016-8-10_8-52-41.png

:

Syringe to empty the fluid reservoir (buy from hydroponics store, these are super handy to have around)

upload_2016-8-10_8-52-2.png
 
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indeed - match the "peep" hole and don't move / spin the hub....and simply put the new rotor back on....

again (although not gospel) I do believe the hub has a v-notch scallop that should be at 12oclock -
and the rotor should be thusly oriented as such too....

again no super biggie - just take the time to note it's position....

Bf
 
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Make sure you grease the caliper pins with brake grease and I like to put some on the ears of the pads.


Will Mobil 1 synthetic grease (NGLI 2) do? Is there another kind of grease I should try instead?
 
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indeed - match the "peep" hole and don't move / spin the hub....and simply put the new rotor back on....

again (although not gospel) I do believe the hub has a v-notch scallop that should be at 12oclock -
and the rotor should be thusly oriented as such too....

again no super biggie - just take the time to note it's position....

Bf
There's nothing in the FSM about this and I've never had an issue?
 
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For adjusting the parking brake shoes, my intent is to turn the star nut until they make contact with the rotor, then back it off a quarter turn. Is that correct?
 
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There is also adjustment on the back side of the rear brake backing plate (bellcrank). The process for adjusting the parking brake is set out in the FSM.
 

Hornd

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If you haven't bled the brakes before do a search..... it'll open a whole new can of worms in the forms of various opinions. Also start soaking the bleeder in PB blaster to make for easy removal. Here are my preferred tools for bleeding brakes:

One man bleeder (buy from the parts store for $5 or make your own)

View attachment 1304481
:

Syringe to empty the fluid reservoir (buy from hydroponics store, these are super handy to have around)

View attachment 1304480

Turkey Baster works too, but it makes the Gravy taste funny.
 

richardlillard1

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Some tips:

First off, if you see gum on the street, leave it there. It's not free candy.

Second, there are, like, thirty Ray's Pizzas. They all claim to be the original. But the real one's on 11th. And if you see a sign that says "Peep Show", that doesn't mean that they're letting you look at presents before Christmas.

EDIT: Wrong advice, but still good information, imo.
 

Tedward

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Another tip about the caliper pin.
Don't over grease it. Just a coating will do. Part stores usally have a tiny packages of it near the register.
Clean/wire brush the caliper where the "ears" of the pads ride and grease that lightly as suggested before.
After you've done it you will never want to pay for that service again.
 
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Your stopping power won't be 100% till the pads bed in either. Took my truck about 3-4 days of driving to feel the improved stopping but my commute is only 5-6 miles round trip. Also bypass or eliminate your LSPV. Mine is currently in the bypass position and it made a huge difference in how well my truck stops.
 
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I can't seem to turn the star nut with the screwdriver once the rotor is on, but the pads are close to the inside of the rotor, but not in contact (I turned the star with the rotor off). When I pull the brake it locks that rotor so tight that I'm afraid officials from Fort Knox are going to ask if I have room in there for some gold.

Is that sufficient for now?
 

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