Doing exhaust work...real time if able... (1 Viewer)

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Mar 16, 2003
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615
Not sure about this so thought I'd ask...

I have the MAF ceramic headers cat back yada yada on my FJ60.

Y connector rusted out, cat all broken up and poured out the pieces, muffler to tailpipe great shape.

Got the new Y connector from MAF this week, everything taken apart and ready to reinstall without a cat, doing the welding of the flanges to the straight pipe connecting Y to muffler. Everything will remain "bolt on"


Here's my questions (1) Do I use any gasket or sealant for my flange-to-flange bolt ons? If so, what? (2) At the header to the y connector, the connection is like a bubble flare with brakcets and bolts to draw them tight into each other. Do I need to put some sort of sealant at these joints? If so, what?


So there you have it, two type of joints, two questions regarding gasket or sealant!

Thanks for any suggestions or insight:cheers:

Dave
 
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Apr 6, 2010
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header to y pipe should have some exhaust "doughnuts". Should be able to pick them up at almost any exhaust or parts store. I have a SBC engine so not sure of the parts numbers.
 

Spike Strip

Go Fun Me
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Yes, there's a gasket (donut) the 62's use w/ a CAT. Sealant will just burn off.

If you're deleting the CATs you might just be able to use a standard 2 1/2" flat gasket from the muffler shop ... ?

The donut style is for the recess in the CAT.
 
Joined
Mar 16, 2003
Messages
615
Good replies...thanks!

Will haul the Y connector into the local auto parts tomorrow and look into the doughnut gasket thing. I'm only familiar with a doughnut gasket used at the exhaust manifold to downpipe interface. I was expecting more of a ferrule type gasket at the header end to Y pipe connection??

Thanks!
 

ntsqd

technerd
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Apr 26, 2007
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Upper So. CA
Here's my questions (1) Do I use any gasket or sealant for my flange-to-flange bolt ons? If so, what?
If there is a recess then the donut gaskets are the best plan. If they are just flat faces mated together then I'd use Ultra Copper RTV. A hint to make such joints work and live longer is to carefully fit a short piece of tube into the upstream tube & flange. Weld it in place with 3/16"-1/4" of it sticking out. I still use the Ultra Copper, but having the down-stream tube "pilot" on the stub forms a labyrinth seal and the Ultra Copper isn't being worked as hard.

(2) At the header to the y connector, the connection is like a bubble flare with brakcets and bolts to draw them tight into each other. Do I need to put some sort of sealant at these joints? If so, what?
If the down-stream tube has a bubble flare like flare and the upstream tube has a simple ~45* flare then usually these don't need any sealant or gasket.
 

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