Doing brake pads - deglazing rotors? (1 Viewer)

[DangerYoshi]

Sorry if this has been discussed already, but I haven't turned up any threads on this.

This weekend I finally got a jack and some stands and while I had one of my front wheels off I saw the brake pad was looking pretty crusty/flaky so I figured it was probably time to replace them.

In 2017, the truck had a Centric brake kit installed with drilled/slotted rotors and the Centric posi-quiet ceramic pads. I just got off the phone with the local cruiser shop that installed them, and they told me not to worry about resurfacing the rotors when changing the pads, but to deglaze the rotors and then replace the pads and the included hardware.

Has anyone gone through this process? Is it just sanding down the surface?

Thanks for any help

 

[jerryb]

Google.
There are too many opinions here to take any one of them as gospel.

I do ten stops forward and reversed 50mph or so.
That's all I do.
And I use sub 20 dollar organic pads all around. I love em.

 

[DangerYoshi]

Google.
There are too many opinions here to take any one of them as gospel.

I do ten stops forward and reversed 50mph or so.
That's all I do.
And I use sub 20 dollar organic pads all around. I love em.

I have googled and I have shmoogled and I'm still bamboozled. So I asked. I am new to all of this, and did not really see much difference in resurface vs deglaze, etc. I don't know if that is just terminology or if it matters at all.

 

[jerryb]

just put new pads in and be done with it. it will work out fine. if you think they don't stop as well do a break in procedure. Even if you don't, it will be fine.
I never do much with just new pads except get them hot enough for a faint smell. There have to be a ton of brake threads here. look in the faq.

 

[TheForger]

Yeah I don’t think have to deglaze but I always do anyway because that’s what I’ve always done. I hit mine with a green scotchbrite pad in crisscrossing patterns while rotating the hub, then bed in the new brakes by getting up to 45mph and gently hitting the brake until I feel it catch and slow down to 25mph making sure to keep the braking force consistent. I usually do that 10 times before calling it good. Everyone’s got their different methods.

 

[hoser]

Deglaze = taking sand paper, emery cloth or flap disc to the rotor to remove any build-up. @jerryb is talking about "bedding" the pads.... which I also recommend. I typically don't resurface rotors unless you somehow went "metal to metal" and there is still enough rotor thickness left. I don't deglaze unless I am experiencing some kind of pulsating from the brakes.

 

[TheForger]

At a minimum make sure to remove the lip of brake residue that hardens around the outer edge of the rotor

 

[Otter]

I've been having an issue with my 04. As I'm braking to a stop, I feel a light surging. Not the brake pedal pulsating, but almost like the brakes are going on and off. Not completely off, because I'm still slowing down, but just enough to feel like braking is being reduced a minor amount. Would that be residue on the rotors that I could remove or something else maybe?

I recently replaced the rear pads and surging didn't change. Pads and rotors on the front aren't anywhere close to needing to be replaced. Rotors look fine visually, as do the pads. I just bought this truck last October. Prior to that it was very well maintained. Dealer or service every 5k regardless.

 

[DangerYoshi]

Thanks, guys. The above replies have cleared things up a lot for me

 

[jerryb]

I've been having an issue with my 04. As I'm braking to a stop, I feel a light surging. Not the brake pedal pulsating, but almost like the brakes are going on and off. Not completely off, because I'm still slowing down, but just enough to feel like braking is being reduced a minor amount. Would that be residue on the rotors that I could remove or something else maybe?

I recently replaced the rear pads and surging didn't change. Pads and rotors on the front aren't anywhere close to needing to be replaced. Rotors look fine visually, as do the pads. I just bought this truck last October. Prior to that it was very well maintained. Dealer or service every 5k regardless.

you can have a stuck piston (front) and it won't pull the car to one side but still cause that stop start feeling, pulse. Really obvious in car,s not so much in this heavy thing. Another give away is the sound you wheel makes as you spin if off the ground, and how much it's different side to side. Easy test before you take pads out and push them in to check.
The other pulse is obviously the rear slide pins. Cheap replaceable calipers and pads for the rear, fast bleed to. But really, I think all of us would head straight to the front for the pulse.