Dog, my copilot (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 18, 2018
Threads
23
Messages
167
Location
Seattle
After a bit of a break, I'm back working on my FJ40. My first build thread was here: First Thread.

I have a bunch planned and I decided that I should post my progress here and get some help before making some bad decisions on the second phase.

First, I'll update where I'm at. After spending way too much time on wiring up my sniper, I got it running. This is a chevy 4 bolt main 400 ci block. I installed the sniper efi, ignition, hyper spark coil and distributor.
I hopefully learned a bunch hooking this up. My initial start was delayed multiple time:
1. First attempt, power wire pulled out from fuel pump, so no gas
2. Sniper hand held was not completely connected, total dead
3. No enough fuel in tank for fuel pump to pick up
4. Finally started up and purr'ed
5. "Re-wired" by adding wire wrap and harness wrap, pulled hand held loose again and had to trouble shoot
6. Tried to time it, but so far off that I realized the distributor is a tooth or two off.
7. After finding TDC and resetting distro, realized that my plug wires are in the wrong order
8. Finally runs strong through RPM range, but pre ignites at higher RPMs

Now that the motor is running again, it's time to replace it :flush:. While the 400 is my fathers dream engine, the 383 stroker is mine. I stumbled onto this one:



Eagle stroker kit, sast iron heads, roller cam and hydraulic lifters and a mild cam. I don't have the build sheet on it, but my neighbor knows the guy who build it and no expense was spared. I'll move all the sniper stuff from the 400 on to the 383. Hopefully, I'll find out how to reset the sniper map table to the new engine.

Why the change? It's part of my dream machine. The 400 is still strong with compression between 175 and 210. Oil pressure is 58 at idle. I'm waiting on a buyer before I pull this engine out.

Once the engine is out, I plan to take the Th400 and transfer case to a transmission shop and ask them to take a look, fix anything wrong and reseal them up. If anyone in the PNW has a good recommendation, I'm all ears and would appreciate any help.

The wiring under the dash is a complete mess. Pieced together fuse block with wires everywhere, connected, disconnected, spliced, hanging, stuffed...it's just bad. I got a wiring kit from JTOutfitters and plan to re-wire everything. I have a weather pack kit, but my neighbor convinced me the deutch kit is the move, more waterproof and smaller connections. It came in the mail today along with seamless butt connectors. He recommending crimp, solder, then heat shrink the connections. I need a lesson.

With the engine and transmission out, I'll pull the old GM steering column and add it a flaming river push button ignition column along with the momo fighter steering wheel:

I know the enthusiasts blood pressure is getting pretty high so I'll add some more logs to the fire. Since the fuse block for the EZ wire kit with likely occupy the majority of the glove box, I'm replacing the heaters with a This AC, along with a new steering column (column shifter) and Dakota Digital cluster, vintage air gen IV system. The passenger side will be stuffed with wires and AC. I'm bailing on the OEM instrument cluster in favor of the Dakota Digital second gen unit. I'm hoping all of these components should make the wiring job a little easier.

There is so much to do, I'm over whelmed on where to start. I appreciate you reading this thread. Please drop me a note if you think I'm going the wrong way or have some advice.

Final shot of the security system.
 
After taking a nap, we decided to remove the 400, it was tough to get off the couch
Took about 6 hours of yanking and pulling, but the old engine is out, and I have a buyer coming over tomorrow to hopefully pick it up. I swapped intake manifolds, I don't know if it was worth it or not as they both seem equivalent. I'm selling everything off the old motor, water pump, alternator, power steering pump. I have a full front set on order.
The radiator looks ok, but I'll take it to a radiator shop, have it leak tested and flushed. Since I moved the motor over 1 inch from the original spot, I need to cut a new shroud.

My radiator bracket is also broke. I may try to fab a new one or just weld this one.

I still need to pull the tranny and transfer case and take it to a shop. I'll also see if I can clean up the engine bay, prepare for new wiring and potentially see if I can get some paint to match up.

 
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I've been getting some solid time to work on the FJ40. I cleaned the frame and engine when it was in the rig, but after removing it, I decided to deep clean the frame rails and apply some POR-15. Didn't come out as well as I would have liked. I probably should have use a roller instead of a paint brush. I forced myself to stop at the front rear spring perch. I'm start to develop some serious rust in the back, but once I get the engine and everything else installed....I swear I'll go back and remove the rear axle and aux tank and clean things up. Here are the finished frame rails:

I've completely stripped down my firewall removing almost everything.
The only thing left is the metal tabs that hold the wires in place. I really hate them as they have some rust and my landcruiser is too heavy to tip it over and dip the tabs in plastic dip. I really want to move to a better wire/brakeline/fuel line management system without hanging big nutserts through the firewall. I'm thinking about notchhead clamps with small nuts. Anyone have a better solution?

I have some two part rattle can epoxy primer I'll use on the firewall and then a coat of the lizard skin.

I stripped the inside too. The plans inside are more radical and I invite the purest to back out of this thread :). I don't have many toyota switches left as the PO (my dad), replaced what didn't work with schucks switches including the windshield wipers and headlights. I only have the hazard light switch and heater controls. I have a vintage air ordered, so they will be gone too. Here is the dash now:
I plan to weld up all of the round holes across the dash. This will be my first true body work so I'm looking forward to the challenge. I'm hoping with welding the holes, plus bondo, I can get the dash pretty flat. I don't know if it's worth epoxy priming, or just moving to a self etching primer or 2k(?). I have a pint of rustic green 621 and clear coat. I think I'll need to watch a few more YouTube channels to have an exact plan. Before the paint, I plan to "expand" the stereo hole to a double din size. This should be an interesting install as I think I'll need I'll need to weld in a bracket to support the double din. I'm bought the Kenwood DMX1057XR which is a 10.1 floating screen. This should fill the entire center of the dash. I'll keep the ash tray and the glove box and plan to mount the Vintage Air control right above the ash tray. I got a 2 5/8ths knock out punch from SWAG and will put a hole on each side of the dash, one where the headlight switch is and one outside of the glove box. I'll fill the hole with infinity kappa 2" mid range speakers. Aside from tweeter on the upper dash pad, I don't yet know what the rest of the stereo system will be.

I test mounted the flaming river steering column and I'm super happy with the BTH fire wall support. Dad fab'ed up an accelerator bracket attached to the transmission hump. This put the pedal right down in the corner which is not very comfortable. I bought a lokar accelerator pedal and matching brake pedal pad. The lokar was a really bad fit and it looked like I'd need to run the cable through the firewall at a 45 degree angle:
Luckily, I found a bracket for the lokar pedal on BTH.

Once I get the dash ready for paint, I'll epoxy primer the inside of the firewall and treat it to another Lizard Skin coat. I'll also fill the rest of the cabin body holds and coat everything with Lizard Skin up to the top...no doors.

I've really dumped a ton of money in parts and tools in the last couple months. I think my co pilot sold me out to the wife. Here she is looking over the credit card bill.
 
The dash is finally starting to look decent. I wanted to go with a double din stereo so I increased the single din size to fit.
After dry fitting the stereo and the Vintage Air, I found that the AC was resting against the stereo. I needed to raise the double din up. I filled the original hole and extended upward. I did run into room against the defrost but I'll need to address that when I install the AC. Here is the new hole:
Re-painting the dash was a nightmare as I had epoxy primer over the entire firewall, inside and out, along with the entire tub. Since I was on a 72 hour time limit to get the lizard skin sprayed, I boxed myself in the corner and didn't have time to 'fix' the paint on the dash. Here is the stereo dry fit in

I muscled the 383 into the engine after spraying 4 coats of Lizard skin. Super easy install.


My steering was super sloppy with the steering box my dad installed, so I made the trip to Auburn WA and traded my 3 turn box for a 4.25 turn. They assured me this is a standard 4 bolt box everyone used on Landcruisers. When I got home, it didn't mate to the scab plate my father made. I order the 4x4 Labs kit and asked a buddy of mine, or actually knows hot to weld, to come over and help me install. One of the draw backs of this kit, that I've seen on Mud, is installing the stock bumper after. Since I have an ARB bull bar bumper with my 8274 winch, it was critical that we fix this. My buddy did an excellent job fusing the two plates together:




Dad also installed a larger aluminum radiator so when I received the Ron Davis replacement. I had to re modify the radiator bracket. I wish I took more time as it was not quite level. I needed some bar clamps to get all the bolts in but it squared up pretty well once its on the radiator.

I installed the E-Stopp electric brake on the channel underneath and behind the front seats along with the button in the stock brake light position on the dash.


Finally, after a ton of debate, about separating my front brake lines, I decided to return to the stock configuration and ran only one brake line for the front axel. I think I'm ready to bleed the master cylinder and finish off the brakes.





Lack of pics of my co-pilot Shmoo have slowed down my posts. Here he is getting ready to ride
 

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