Does this video diagnose a fried A/C compressor? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Check Denso website or even Rockauto also try Partsgeek.
 
How much do you think a machine shop will charge to resurface it?

Didn't know that was such a thing. So do you think the compressor is still good except for the clutch that is attached to it?
 
Resurface an A/C clutch is something i never heard of, i'm old but maybe not that old. :bang:
 
Resurface an A/C clutch is something i never heard of, i'm old but maybe not that old. :bang:

Correct. This isn't done.

OP needs to make sure he is getting 12vdc at the clutch...otherwise the coil can't pull it into the drive plate. If there is slippage (which there is) then the Clutch Stop Sensor (on the back of the compressor) will recognize the difference in engine speed vs. compressor speed and automatically kick the clutch out after a few seconds...which is what we are seeing in the videos.

There is a systematic way to check all of these things if the OP wants to put in the time and effort. At this juncture I would be checking to see that the compressor turns (not locking up). If its good...then I'd start the troubleshooting procedures (checking for proper voltage and resistance) through the coil and clutch stop sensor.

The clutch surfaces are pretty rough and it's clear they've been hot more than once. I've seen worse still working but those are pretty bad. Heat is what kills coils.
 
troubleshooting procedures (checking for proper voltage and resistance) through the coil and clutch stop sensor.

Is that just a matter of testing with a multimeter...one probe on the positive prong on compressor connector and ground other probe to see voltage?
 
Is that just a matter of testing with a multimeter...one probe on the positive prong on compressor connector and ground other probe to see voltage?


It IS....but, there are number of reasons you might show NO voltage through the wiring system, so I wouldn't do that first.

Instead...I would have you do a 'Go-no-Go' test.

To do that you'll need to reassemble the clutch and be SURE you've got .020" air gap. Then disconnect the connector to the clutch. Run a lead from your battery (positive) to the 'lead' wire on the clutch. Use another wire to 'ground' the clutch to the chassis.

See if the clutch will engage, (there should be a very distinct 'click' when the parts pull together). IF you don't get that...then your coil is shot. IF you DO get it to pull together... then the investigation continues.
 
@BullElk Did you shop around for a magnetic clutch assm. versus a complete compressor? I looked around and i think the best you can get is a Denso unit from Rockauto there is no listing for any magnetic clutch unit with the exemption of Toyota, Denso don't even list it on their website and i didn't even see any aftermarket unit i didn't go very far on this i just looked at the popular sites.
 
@BullElk Did you shop around for a magnetic clutch assm. versus a complete compressor? I looked around and i think the best you can get is a Denso unit from Rockauto there is no listing for any magnetic clutch unit with the exemption of Toyota, Denso don't even list it on their website and i didn't even see any aftermarket unit i didn't go very far on this i just looked at the popular sites.
Looks cheaper to buy the magnetic clutch assembly. $123 vs $398 on Toyota parts deal, if I'm looking at the right part.
 
I did look some. Not many options. I also so the one's mentioned. I decided to get a used compressor with clutch. Has 100K miles on it with lifetime warranty. I may just try to use the clutch first then replace entire unit if clutch doesn't work.
 
@BullElk If you are going with the used route bench test the coil while your at it and flush the compressor if you decide to install it. If i'm not mistaken your compressor take a ND_8 or PAG 46 oil flush the compressor with at least 2-3 ounces hand spin the front of the clutch several times and then dumped it if you have a clean plastic or glass container check the oil for signs of any metal particles they tend to sit at the bottom of the compressor. Since the system is not completely empty just add about 3 ounces of oil in the compressor before you install and hand spin the front of the clutch to circulate the oil. Let us know the outcome.
 
Yes Sir, Thanks
 
@BullElk If you are going with the used route bench test the coil while your at it and flush the compressor if you decide to install it. If i'm not mistaken your compressor take a ND_8 or PAG 46 oil flush the compressor with at least 2-3 ounces hand spin the front of the clutch several times and then dumped it if you have a clean plastic or glass container check the oil for signs of any metal particles they tend to sit at the bottom of the compressor. Since the system is not completely empty just add about 3 ounces of oil in the compressor before you install and hand spin the front of the clutch to circulate the oil. Let us know the outcome.


^^^^^

Sage advice above.
 
I attempted to test connector in ohms. With multimeter dial on 200 ohms setting...Positive probe on positive prong and negative on compressor case. It read 4.2 ohms. Just like the new compressor.

Does that suggest old compressor is good?
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom