Does this bearing have to be disassembled to replace the CV? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Theraf8100
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- Thread starter
- #2
I have the truck at the shop band they say the CV spline stripped out. They are worried they're going to have to take apart this bearing to do the job. Does the bearing have to be messed with?
Don't exactly know what you are referring to in the image but Inner bearing can stay inside, when you take the flange and the spindle nut off the outer bearing will come out. I would recommend just pulling the bearings and regrease if they're in good condition, replace if not. Who knows what could've gotten in there. (I'm assuming the CV stripped because of the C-clip). Either way, not hard to do.
- Thread starter
- #4
The picture is what the mechanic gave me and said they think it has to come apart and are afraid of all the pieces in there.
If you are just replacing the CV, the only parts that will need to be removed are the ones circled in red. All the other stuff (bearing, two retainer nuts. big washer, lock washer) can stay in place.
HOWEVER, if the CV axle stripped out, then mostly likely the blue circled pieces are toast and should be replaced as well. I've never managed to replace a CV without disconnected the upper ball joint as well. It's tight and the snout is half a mile long. Some folks may have managed without disconnecting that balljoint, but I have not.
Regardless, the bearings and hub assembly can all stay together as one piece.
Edit - if separating the upper balljoint, you need to unbolt brake lines and ABS sensors or you're going to rip them apart!
HOWEVER, if the CV axle stripped out, then mostly likely the blue circled pieces are toast and should be replaced as well. I've never managed to replace a CV without disconnected the upper ball joint as well. It's tight and the snout is half a mile long. Some folks may have managed without disconnecting that balljoint, but I have not.
Regardless, the bearings and hub assembly can all stay together as one piece.
Edit - if separating the upper balljoint, you need to unbolt brake lines and ABS sensors or you're going to rip them apart!
So what I would do if you just want the simplest way possible is order a new CV, Flange, and the little paper seal for the flange. You would remove the dust cap, c-clip, flange, spindle nut and the outer bearing. Then remove the caliper and speed sensor. Remove the steering knuckle (I believe that is what it is called), disconnect the Hub from the upper and lower ball joints. The Hub will come off at that point, all the other little pieces that you are worried about will be contained in there. Replace CV and do the opposite to reassemble, slap new grease on the outer bearing.
If your bearings are fine this would work. Otherwise I'd replace. The diagram makes it look more complicated than it is imo.
Look up OTRAMM's videos on youtube as well.
If your bearings are fine this would work. Otherwise I'd replace. The diagram makes it look more complicated than it is imo.
Look up OTRAMM's videos on youtube as well.
As @krispykritter said you can leave the outer bearing in but since that is easier to access I would at least put some fresh grease on there.
Others have given good advice so this won't be necessarily helpful at this point, but.....it seems the shop isn't too familiar with the 100 series.
I'd be a little worried about having my truck worked on by a shop where the mechanic is "afraid of all the pieces" haha.
I get the wheel hub assembly can be a little daunting at first, but many on this forum have DIY'd this job with the great resources here and it honestly shouldn't be a difficult job for a quality shop/mechanic that's ever worked on a 100.
I have to say I was thinking the same thing and I would say just give it a shot yourself. You aren't that far from Chicago, but unfortunately I am not in town for a while otherwise I would offer my help.
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- #10
Yeah...I would give it a shot myself but I got rid of most my tools, and I don't really have the space to do it. Thank you all much for the replies! It will help a lot!
What's the over/under that this shop will fail at this job?
Take it elsewhere - as a complete novice you could follow the FSM and do a better job.
Seriously- they will do more damage and cost you more $$$ to fix what they screw up- tell them to button it back up and take it home- find a competent Toyota tech to help you- dealership or indi-
Seriously- they will do more damage and cost you more $$$ to fix what they screw up- tell them to button it back up and take it home- find a competent Toyota tech to help you- dealership or indi-
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Please take it to a different shop…
