Dobinson's Lift on VTX Wheels (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 16, 2020
Threads
2
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65
Location
Southern California - OC Area
Guys, I just got lifted and put on some new kicks. I waited 3 months for Dobinson's which was on backorder across North America. I also got the Dobinson's UCA's which are built with Sankei 555 ball joints. This gives you 3 degrees of forward caster giving you the clearance to avoid dreaded body mount chop. I went with Dobinson's because they have KDSS specific springs which are offset from Driver side to Passenger. I believe this compensation is the reason why I am not detecting any lean at the moment. I had to do a little plastic trimming and heat gun massaging but other than that get great clearance all around.

Wheels are VTX Wheels Stinger SL Satin Black 17x9 ET 0 offset with conical spline lug nuts
Tires are Toyo Open County AT III Load Range C 285/70/17. Proper 33's

Here are the suspension part numbers:

FRONT SHOCKS:
GS59-700 GAS STRUT SHOCK SUITS 0-2.5" LIFT

FRONT SPRINGS:
C59-314 - V8 - 2.5" LIFT, STOCK FRONT END LOAD

REAR SPRINGS :
C59-725 - 1.75", STOCK REAR END LOAD

REAR SHOCKS:
GS59-705 - TWIN TUBE, SUITS 0-2.5" LIFT, SOFTER VALVING FOR EMPTY REAR ENDS

FRONT IFS DIFF DROP KIT
DD59-527K

FRONT UPPER CONTROL ARM KIT (with ball joint press)
UCA59-002K

STRUT TOP PLATES (PAIR)
SC59-001

Ride is stock quality with bit more firmness. Tires eat potholes for lunch.

Overall very happy with how it turned out. Research pays off.

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Looks great. I have a Dobinson's lift and SPC UCA's with only 275 65 18 Toyo AT3's and it does not look right to us. Thinking about gong to larger tire to fill in some of the gap but not sure if it will rub.
 
Looks great. I have a Dobinson's lift and SPC UCA's with only 275 65 18 Toyo AT3's and it does not look right to us. Thinking about gong to larger tire to fill in some of the gap but not sure if it will rub.

I think it’s also going to depend on wheel size with and offset. If you’re looking for more tire than wheel, then I would recommend 17s. The 9” width on 0 offset is perfect in my opinion as far as clearances and looks. The SPC’s are great at giving you adjustability.
 
How are the tires when steering lock-to-lock and with compression? Or maybe a steep driveway?
 
How are the tires when steering lock-to-lock and with compression? Or maybe a steep driveway?

I have good clearance full lock to lock coming out of my sloped driveway.

front of front wheel well:
- removed plastic piece
- heat gun massaging
- zip tie to keep it forward

rear of front wheel well:
- razor knife trimming of plastic at side step

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That combo looks great!
 
Guys, I just got lifted and put on some new kicks. I waited 3 months for Dobinson's which was on backorder across North America. I also got the Dobinson's UCA's which are built with Sankei 555 ball joints. This gives you 3 degrees of forward caster giving you the clearance to avoid dreaded body mount chop. I went with Dobinson's because they have KDSS specific springs which are offset from Driver side to Passenger. I believe this compensation is the reason why I am not detecting any lean at the moment. I had to do a little plastic trimming and heat gun massaging but other than that get great clearance all around.

Wheels are VTX Wheels Stinger SL Satin Black 17x9 ET0 with conical spline lug nuts
Tires are Toyo Open County AT III Load Range C 285/70/17. Proper 33's

Ride is stock quality with bit more firmness. Tires eat potholes for lunch.

Overall very happy with how it turned out. Research pays off.

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That looks great!! I can't quite see, which shocks did you end up going with? Twin tube or IMS I'm guessing?
 
Thanks mate!

I went with twin tube for now. I know IMS is adjustable. What would be some other key differences/ advantages / disadvantages between the two?
Yeah, IMS has adjustable height on the front with the fully threaded body, so that's handy for changes in added weight later to get a different lift height.

35mm vs 50mm piston
More oil in the IMS
Better sealing system in the IMS
Stronger one piece leg and mounting points in the IMS
IFP, internal floating piston, really transforms the ride quality since the piston isn't attached to the shaft like regular shocks
Bigger piston equals better reaction to harder impacts, and also more comfortable (even though what you've got is already very comfy I'm sure)

Those are some quick points
The twin tubes really are awesome for the price and performance. Individually, only $135 or $115 each, so cheap to replace if ever needed.
Fully sealed, no openable parts
Excellent front strut lower leg design, never seen one fail
Rubber bushings (all Dobinsons shocks/struts use rubber) for better vibration dampening

There aren't any disadvantages to either, but the IMS can just perform better in different conditions than what the twin tubes can. Think of it like a 4cyl motor vs a V8.
 
Yeah, IMS has adjustable height on the front with the fully threaded body, so that's handy for changes in added weight later to get a different lift height.

35mm vs 50mm piston
More oil in the IMS
Better sealing system in the IMS
Stronger one piece leg and mounting points in the IMS
IFP, internal floating piston, really transforms the ride quality since the piston isn't attached to the shaft like regular shocks
Bigger piston equals better reaction to harder impacts, and also more comfortable (even though what you've got is already very comfy I'm sure)

Those are some quick points
The twin tubes really are awesome for the price and performance. Individually, only $135 or $115 each, so cheap to replace if ever needed.
Fully sealed, no openable parts
Excellent front strut lower leg design, never seen one fail
Rubber bushings (all Dobinsons shocks/struts use rubber) for better vibration dampening

There aren't any disadvantages to either, but the IMS can just perform better in different conditions than what the twin tubes can. Think of it like a 4cyl motor vs a V8.

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I may upgrade at a later time, but the twin tubes did fit my budget better. It’s a good entry level shock for mostly on road and some light off roading in my opinion. Should be more reliable as well with less parts.
 
Great looking rig and exactly what I want to do when I purchase my 460.!!!
I googled those wheels, they come in 0 and -25 offset. Which did you choose?
 
Great looking rig and exactly what I want to do when I purchase my 460.!!!
I googled those wheels, they come in 0 and -25 offset. Which did you choose?
I got the 0 offset. The wheel itself is flush with the fender lip. It’s the tire bulge that sticks out. I feel like -25 is possible with this set up as well if you were looking to go more aggressive.
 
I've got the same tires on AlphaEquipt wheels that are +10 offset on same Dobinsons lift and UCA; with same trimming and heat gun massage mentioned through this thread, I've got no rubbing.

Removing the running boards in favor of sliders gives quite a bit of extra room.
 
Added Magnaflow Overland Series catback exhaust. The stock hangers have quite a bit of flex. So even though you have clearance all around at install, you will hear some metal clanging as you drive. The culprit is a heatshield bolt with some extra threads hanging out (circled red in picture). Just cut off the excess threads and good to go.

Sound clip:



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When you remove the side steps, you lose the step lights along with it. Here is a diy that I came up with to install lights on alphaEquipt sliders I got.

My criteria for adding anything exterior is that it has to withstand freeway speeds and has to be able to withstand a drive thru car wash (waterproof). Also I did not want the lights to be mounted underneath the sliders because that defeats the whole purpose. Also I did not want to drill holes. I realized most sliders on the market utilize a 2" square tubing crossmembers.

So with those criteria in mind, I decided to use a 2" square U-bolt to mount an aluminum Z bar directly above the sliders. Once you have the Zbar mounted, you can mount any type of lights on it. I decided to mount 60" truck bed waterproof lighting strips. Then I cut and spliced the harness plug onto the lighting strip and connected to the stock location. Used split loom and overlap taped electrical type like how the stock harness was built.

Result is very bright and even lighting which operates just as the stock lights did. I can also have the peace of mind that it is protected by the sliders and it is waterproof. May be a little overboard for just some step lighting, but this is the way I wanted it. Cheers!

YouTube Clip



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