Dobinson Dual Swing Out Bumper - 80 Series - A+ (1 Viewer)

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izzyandsue

Izzy
SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 31, 2014
Threads
114
Messages
6,664
Location
Charlotte, NC
Website
www.tactegra.com
After some internal debate with myself, I finally decided to get the Dobinson rear bumper. I have been using my 80 hard during guiding and 4WD classes, and the rear tire needed to come up from under the truck, it was a limiting factor. But enough of that, the Dobinson bumper is outstanding. Truly outstanding piece of gear and I highly recommend it.

I will be reviewing it over the next few treads, starting with the beginning. Shoutout to JD at MidState Toyota in Asheboro, NC. I ordered it Thursday 10/18 ,as they are a Dobinson dealer, and it came in Monday 10/22! Amazing. I drove up to pick it up and it all fits inside an 80, it was extremely well packed and protected on a wooden pallet before I stuffed it in here.
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Got it home and begin to undo the packaging, sort it all out in the garage floor. The instructions are simple, and assembly was easy with a few twists I will describe. The only 2 issues I had was a bracket tab that didn't seem to fit, and no installation page for swing outs. In a matter of minutes, CrikeyMike email me the instructions and told me what to do with the tab. This was impressive response time. I found a Youtube video that has similar bumper swing out install, so would have been fine.

Before you start, I recommend an M8X1.25, M10X1.25, M12x1.25, tap to make sure the threads are clean on the frame. Then tap all the holes on the brackets to remove paint residue and clean them up. One quick correction on the part list, there is a bolt listed as M12X1.5. It is not 1.5, they are all 1.25.

Instruction page for bumper, one page and it was enough. Swing out was another page. There are 2 pages of part quantity and identification.
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One of the first things I noticed was how light the bumper was. It feels strong, fit and finish are first rate, the hardware is all there, the lights and wires are well marked and easy to get to. As good as it felt handling it, it was easy by one person due to the lightness. After removing the brackets and plastic parts of the OEM bumper, the Dobinson goes right over the OEM bumper and frame and attaches to the side rails with brackets.

This bracket goes on the side rails, and there is a spade shaped part that stuck out and wouldn't clear the body mount. CrikeyMike told me to bend it (easy to do with pliers or bench vice) as that tab is used to align the holes for the bracket. Even though that part is not on the instructions, that is all you have to do.
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Bent tab used to align bolt holes, hardware went in very easily that way.
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Make sure all the bolts are in but not tight as you will need to position the bumper and may need adjustment. There are 2 side M8 bolts that hold each bracket in place, those need to be tight as the bumper will cover them and you will not have access to them.

Once the side rail tabs are in place you may want to install the shiny plate on top of the bumper. I opted to leave it out, and decide if I want to add it later on. But I do like how it looks without it.

As you slide the bumper in place, which amazingly is easy to do by one person, it will be obvious how it goes, as the 4 center bumper holes will align with the OEM bumper. The bolts on the kit where too short for my truck so I got 10mm longer bolts to make sure I had enough thread engagement.

The 4 bolts, 8.8 grade marking easy to see, that will be on the center of the bumper:
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Now you can see how much deeper the bolts went in to the rear OEM bumper/frame. Was it necessary? Not sure, I did it for my own peace of mind.

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After the center was aligned and the bolts engaged, all that is left is to get all the bolts nice and tight.

The wiring for the lights was wound inside the bumper, nice long wires and connectors, all well marked and easy to fish out. I was heading out to the American Adventurist Appalachian Rendezvous, so decided to wire the tail/brake and license plate lights only so I can get out there.

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For the swing outs, make sure you have bearing grease handy to pack the bearings, and a 30mm socket for the top nut. Besides that, the instructions are easy to follow and the kit comes together nicely, everything fits like top notch equipment, again, great finish and design.

Truck loaded and ready to go to the National Forest for the Rendezvous.
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Tail/brake light on. They are bright and work very well.
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At Appalachian Rendezvous, I was leading and recovering groups on some private trail systems, lots of rains, lots of slick boulders, and wet slick clay made the trails, in some cases, impassable. We ended up using every piece of gear that weekend for vehicle recoveries. And had some damage.

This is the driver side recovery tab. I hit it, more than once, on boulders. This is not a Dobinson issue, it was a driver/terrain/line issue. I dragged those a few times. And one bent. The other side is scarred but didn't bend. I know the bumper took a beating for 3 days of hard trails, hitting it many times on rocks, under water, caked in mud (clay), and it still looks great!
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Another rock took a swing (and won) at the detent pin that hold the wheel carrier in place. And it still works great.

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For comparison sake, I installed the original Toyota rear recovery points (see below pic). You can see how much beefier they look. I will keep them on and try different recovery situations. The tab might be sufficient, but the Toyota just bolts to the frame and it was a simple addition.

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Driver side detent pin, these are fully adjustable so they dont drag like this one, I just hadn't had time to do it yet. They do work excellent when you are way off-camber. I tested it, they are excellent.
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The handles, these are LARGE, easy to use, adjustable, and have the safety pin attached with a cable. Couldn't ask for anything more. The handle part is coated with plastic for better grip. I found this level of attention to detail and construction to be truly outstanding.
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The swing out rests for the bumper, when closed, have this beefy plastic that is also fully adjustable to help keep the weight off the spindle. Overall, it does feel like an excellent quality built bumper with great attention to detail and high manufacturing standards.
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In the end, I strongly recommend this bumper. Now that I have all the lights wired, everything works great, has a great feel to it, looks very well manufactured. In addition, the quickness of response from Dobinsons (Mike) has been second to none.

My truck is a working vehicle, strictly for off road teaching and travel, so I was not looking for something that would be super aesthetic, but more functional. I believe I got both with this bumper. And to end it all, I did measure the height difference before and after the bumper install, and it is exactly the same, 38 inches from ground to bottom of arch well.

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Hey post up a shot of what looked like a DIY Hi-Lift support piece in the back of your truck, would you? It looks like you have a piece of wood with carriage bolts coming through the bottom as a support for your jack on muddy, tricky spots. I've been meaning to make one, too, but I was going to router out a depression in the wood in the shape of the base plate. If that sounds like a PITA - that's why I haven't done it yet.

Your bumper and rig looks great! I like the purpose built approach and look. Keep it up, and thanks for the in-depth, after use review and pics.
 
That thing should have a patent! It is, a scrap piece of 2x12, that I placed the base of the HiLift jack in the middle, traced the holes location, then drilled a couple of holes and inserted carriage bolts long enough to then go through the HiLift base when in use. Very useful in our deep muddy trails!
This is the base (up) side
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This is the down side, that will go against the ground. The rope is to recover from deep mud or sand.
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Got a few requests for how the lights look, here is the driver side, very bright lights. The brake light was not on, only tail, signal, and reverse.

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That thing should have a patent! It is, a scrap piece of 2x12, that I placed the base of the HiLift jack in the middle, traced the holes location, then drilled a couple of holes and inserted carriage bolts long enough to then go through the HiLift base when in use. Very useful in our deep muddy trails!
This is the base (up) side
View attachment 1823062

This is the down side, that will go against the ground. The rope is to recover from deep mud or sand.
View attachment 1823063

That's money. I'm going to make one, too. I like cheap, DIY, improving safety items. I can even use the rope run through it to secure it inside the rig. Thanks for taking the time to post the pics.
:cheers:
 
Thanks for the review and detailed photos Izzy, that's really great information and feedback.
 
Adding some more efficiency to the rear swingout with some rubber quick fist clamps to hang shovel and axe. There is 2 places to add the clamps, some M5x25mm bolts, large washers and capture nuts did the trick. The axe will be in the next set of holes below the shovel and does not interfere with the swingout.
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Looks pretty good. The recovery tab pic is why I prefer having the recovery point on the back face of the bumper (in line and part of the frame attachment) Recovery points on the bottom of the rear bumper take a tone of abuse and unless they are massive they'll get bent.

I think the bumper recovery points are probably better for that purpose than the factory loops. But I think it looks like a good idea to leave the loops bolted on because they'll make contact with obstacles and take the abuse and protect the bumper recovery points.
 
Why would the recovery point be located there and not on the bumper face? Seems like sacrificing ground clearance and compromising the integrity of a recovery point are no bueno.
 
That thing should have a patent! It is, a scrap piece of 2x12, that I placed the base of the HiLift jack in the middle, traced the holes location, then drilled a couple of holes and inserted carriage bolts long enough to then go through the HiLift base when in use. Very useful in our deep muddy trails!
This is the base (up) side
View attachment 1823062

This is the down side, that will go against the ground. The rope is to recover from deep mud or sand.
View attachment 1823063

The rope is a great idea! Beats the heck out of “fishing” for your base in the deep Uwharrie mud! Great hack.... now I’m off to copy it!
 
It has been 2.5 years or so, so quick update. The bumper still holding up fine, after multiple trips and wheeling events from NC to Vermont to Arizona and NM. Lots of rough terrain and abuse, still no problem. Some rust in the visible shiny latch parts that will need attention in the future, but so far it is still great value. I have used the HiLift jack on the bumper more times than I care to remember, and it is still perfect.

I did loose one of the knurled pull up knobs for the jerry can swingout, replaced it with a piece of rubber which doesn't work very well. Will need to figure out a replacement.

One recommendation for those who have it, remove the rubber end cap from the swingouts and check the interior of the channel. My spare tire one had a lot of corrosion and it was damp. The other side didn't. A simple solution was drill a weep hole on the bent area (lowest point), spray rust Krud Kutter in there, wire bursh it in, then water to remove it all and drain the gunk. Then leave it on the sun for one day. I also drilled a hole on the top of the rubber end cap to allow for ventilation for when it gets wet again, hopefully will just drain and keep it dry.

Inside the spare wheel swingout channel
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Small weep hole drilled at bend, looked like a natural sink
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Drilled hole on top of plastic end cap for ventilation, allow to drain next time it gets wet
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After KrudKutter treatment, all corrosion gone and draining
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Thanks for the write up. Can you or anyone else help on the wiring? The leads are long but aren't labeled.
 
Thanks for the write up. Can you or anyone else help on the wiring? The leads are long but aren't labeled.
Clear light:

black – ground/negative


Brown – Turn signal positive


White – Reverse light positive



Red Light:

Black – Ground / negative


White – tail light positive


Brown – Brake Light Positive
 
Nice bumper and nice writeup. From reading the instructions on the product page, they mention "Requires trimming of lower fender flare and mud flap to tuck rear bumper into.". Can you elaborate a little on what you had to do? I know this is an older post, but do you happen to have pictures of the trim?
Thanks,
Danny
 
Nice bumper and nice writeup. From reading the instructions on the product page, they mention "Requires trimming of lower fender flare and mud flap to tuck rear bumper into.". Can you elaborate a little on what you had to do? I know this is an older post, but do you happen to have pictures of the trim?
Thanks,
Danny
He's not running mud flaps so it's not an issue, but if you do run them, the edge of the bumper wing needs to tuck in behind it, so you just trim a little bit of it away to get the bumper inside. I can't find a photo of how it looks, but it's very simple. It's where I have the red circle in this photo

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