Do you have to have an oil cooler? (1 Viewer)

greenbeast

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I can't remember ever having a Oil cooler on any of my 40's. However as I build the project 78 i keep running across em and its got me wondering.
 

airon23

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I think it might have been more of a smog thing that was put in place to try anything to make things run as clean as possible. I've seen many if not most running without one.
 

greenbeast

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Well desmogged is only way i am going now. Amazing that I haven't really given it any consideration through the years and have never needed one i guess.
Thanks
 

brian

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yeap there are two different oil filter mounts, one with and one without the oil cooler.
my 2F didn't have one. 15 years ago, i couldn't live another day without having an oil cooler, so i sourced parts and had one and i was happy...didn't see a difference in anything....when i rebuilt the truck a few years ago, i decided i didn't want the oil cooler any more, so i replaced the mount, and again i was happy and again i didn't notice any change what so ever.
 
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Steamer

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I guess you could know for sure if you were able to check the oil temp with the cooler functional and then with it disconnected. You could do a temporary probe mount in the oil pan drain. It would also be nice to monitor the water & oil temp side by side while going from a cold start on up to full operating temp with & without the cooler.
 

1911

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They're not really an oil cooler, more like a an oil temp regulator, because all it does is expose a small surface area to the radiator coolant. So when you start your engine cold, it may help the oil come up to the radiator temperature faster, but after full warm-up it's only going to cool the oil down to the radiator temp of 190-210 deg F. A real oil cooler would have a bunch of fins to dump heat into the atmosphere, which due to the greater delta t can actually cool the oil more/faster than the radiator can.

The 2F "cooler" is not a big deal either way. I have one and it doesn't leak, so I'm not taking it off, but if I had a 2F without one, I wouldn't bother adding it.
 
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No oil cooler on the ‘75 I purchased 4 months ago. Aug. ‘75 build originally an Oregon truck w/ full CA smog? Spent the last 4 years in AZ now in CO and trying to get the heater(s) ready for winter. Without an oil cooler does this heater return line look correct by PO - routed back to the small hose connect at the water pump?? I’m guessing the heater return line should connect back into that nipple in the lower radiator hose - see pics. Then block off the water pump small outlet or should it be going somewhere... an oil cooler if it had one? Not to derail the topic but does that vacuum advance nipple at the dizzy need a vac line back to the carb? Supposedly all original OEM
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airon23

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No oil cooler on the ‘75 I purchased 4 months ago. Aug. ‘75 build originally an Oregon truck w/ full CA smog? Spent the last 4 years in AZ now in CO and trying to get the heater(s) ready for winter. Without an oil cooler does this heater return line look correct by PO - routed back to the small hose connect at the water pump?? I’m guessing the heater return line should connect back into that nipple in the lower radiator hose - see pics. Then block off the water pump small outlet or should it be going somewhere... an oil cooler if it had one? Not to derail the topic but does that vacuum advance nipple at the dizzy need a vac line back to the carb? Supposedly all original OEMView attachment 2417808View attachment 2417808View attachment 2417812
That looks/sounds about right. That little silver piece that is capped off in your 3rd pic is normally where it would have plugged in because the one coming from the thermostat housing would have plugged into the oil cooler.
I'm not sure how the heater hose connects to water pump exactly unless you meant the thermostat housing.
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77mustard40

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I’ve got one on my truck. I pulled it along with the oil pan when I was doing a clutch job and “while I’m there” PM. It was leaking along with the rear main seal so I cleaned it up and replaced the mounting hardware and put it back in. No issues over the last 3 years

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That looks/sounds about right. That little silver piece that is capped off in your 3rd pic is normally where it would have plugged in because the one coming from the thermostat housing would have plugged into the oil cooler.
I'm not sure how the heater hose connects to water pump exactly unless you meant the thermostat housing.
View attachment 2417854
View attachment 2417856
Thanks for the reply / photos. I don't have that type thermostat housing....prob because no oil cooler? I just have the top hose from therm housing w
IMG_20200827_113711.jpg
ith a hard turn into the water pump, the large hose from radiator into WP and below that the return hose from the heater coming in just below large radiator hose. See pics

IMG_20200827_114358.jpg
 

airon23

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Thanks for the reply / photos. I don't have that type thermostat housing....prob because no oil cooler? I just have the top hose from therm housing wView attachment 2417933ith a hard turn into the water pump, the large hose from radiator into WP and below that the return hose from the heater coming in just below large radiator hose. See pics

View attachment 2417939
Cool then yeah that seems about right like you were saying.
 
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yeap there are two different oil filter mounts, one with and one without the oil cooler.
my 2F didn't have one. 15 years ago, i couldn't live another day without having an oil cooler, so i sourced parts and had one and i was happy...didn't see a difference in anything....when i rebuilt the truck a few years ago, i decided i didn't want the oil cooler any more, so i replaced the mount, and again i was happy and again i didn't notice any change what so ever.
Hi Brian, if I recall our truck builds are very close. Sounds like you've went to and now back to no cooler. Can you show me your heater return hose routing? Don't think mine is correct coming into the water pump just below the large hose from the radiator. A pic attached

IMG_20200827_114358.jpg
 

ToyotaMatt

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i disagree ,

the oil cooler option brings Stability and a Consistent Temp. 2F block in a perfect world , Remember engine oil's first and primary mission is engine cooling , then only 2nd comes the whole lubrication topic and factors .........

its a essential added system circut i add to any 2F when ever and where ever humanly possible ..........

i am sure emissions is some waht controled by a stable all across the boards 6 cylinders 2F , for sure


but think this out a bit , here :

#1 and # 6 cylinders are surrounded by 3 coolant jackets to dissipate heat from the combustion process ............

#3 and #4 suffer the most due to the furthest away from the benefits of the cooling system

where is the oil cooler located generally , at #3 and #4 cylinders area , this is NO accident ................


just my :

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Dynosoar

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With ONLY four main bearings, keeping the oil cool is priority one. As a comparison the AMC (Jeep) straight six has seven main bearings.
Cooler is cool don't be a fool.

Dyno
 

4Cruisers

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Not to derail the topic but does that vacuum advance nipple at the dizzy need a vac line back to the carb? Supposedly all original OEM
That nipple is for vacuum retard, none of the '75 US 2Fs had vacuum advance. I can set you up with a new Toyota/NipponDenso vacuum advancer, but your OEM carburetor doesn't have an advancer port - it would have to be added.

At a minimum, I'd cap that nipple off to help keep moisture and debris out of the distributor. The best vacuum caps are the OEM ones, check out @ToyotaMatt's Post #4 here: Vacuum port caps
 
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That nipple is for vacuum retard, none of the '75 US 2Fs had vacuum advance. I can set you up with a new Toyota/NipponDenso vacuum advancer, but your OEM carburetor doesn't have an advancer port - it would have to be added.

At a minimum, I'd cap that nipple off to help keep moisture and debris out of the distributor. The best vacuum caps are the OEM ones, check out @ToyotaMatt's Post #4 here: Vacuum port caps
Thanks much
 

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