Do Speedi-sleeves work on rear axle? (1 Viewer)

[Richfj60]

Hi all, I have a 62, but putting an 80 locker rear axle out of a 94 in my truck. I bought a locked rear rear axle at the local salvage yard and am pulling apart to replace the seals, etc. They have some grooves in the axles from the seats, so I am considering putting speed-sleeves or decreasing the seal housing depth to move the seal inboard of the groove. Any other options? Has anyone used a Speed-sleeve? I found a part number, but wanted to make sure if works before I order it. Part number 99820 or 99139 is what I have seen here on mud.

 

[Richfj60]

Picture is worth a thousand words…

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

I thought you could buy 80 axle shafts. I would do that before what you propose.

 

[Grandlooser]

Before either of those Id space the seal out by like 30-.040 and just ride it on a new spot. Ill take your old ones though if your are ditching them.

 

[Godwin]

Another option. Leave the axle tube seal out, use a quality hub seal, and seal the axle flange to the hub with some silicone sealant. Then just run gear oil through out the rear axle, from hub to hub, with gear oil lubing the wheel bearings along with the diff gears and bearings.

 

[nukegoat]

Another option. Leave the axle tube seal out, use a quality hub seal, and seal the axle flange to the hub with some silicone sealant. Then just run gear oil through out the rear axle, from hub to hub, with gear oil lubing the wheel bearings along with the diff gears and bearings.

Win

 

[BILT4ME]

Picture is worth a thousand words…

View attachment 2736696

What's the spindle look like?

IDK how an axle/spindle seal could have even remotely caused that groove.

Most of those move around and end up inboard and allowing the gear oil to fill the hubs.

You can just place it in there and hope it stays. It is NOT a critical seal point unless you try to use incompatible greased and oils which is not wise.

 

[LandLocked93]

Godwin said: Another option. Leave the axle tube seal out, use a quality hub seal, and seal the axle flange to the hub with some silicone sealant. Then just run gear oil through out the rear axle, from hub to hub, with gear oil lubing the wheel bearings along with the diff gears and bearings.

Win

What?? Is this a 'trail fix'?
Or a permanent replacement of the OEM bits?

 

[Grandlooser]

What?? Is this a 'trail fix'?
Or a permanent replacement of the OEM bits?

Both

 

[Richfj60]

Thanks all for your input. The grooves are from the seals. It’s a common issue. The axles are not compromised, only issue is a potential leak. Certainly doesn’t warrant spending $500 to $800 . I didn’t see any evidence of leaks, but don’t really know. Speedi-sleeves are a common fix, but not sure if they work on the 80 axles. I am leaning towards moving the seal so that it doesn’t ride on the same groove.
I’m not building a crawler, so I’m not so tough on them.

 

[-Spike-]

Another option. Leave the axle tube seal out, use a quality hub seal, and seal the axle flange to the hub with some silicone sealant. Then just run gear oil through out the rear axle, from hub to hub, with gear oil lubing the wheel bearings along with the diff gears and bearings.

x4. I did this years ago, no regrets. I don't even use silicone, just a stock heavy paper seal on the axle end. Gotta use a quality inner hub seal, OEM works well.

@Tools R Us (RIP) convinced me to go this route, after pointing out that heavy semi trucks and trailers have been doing it this way for ages. Oil beats grease by a long shot for lubricity. A search will probably turn up a post or two from him on the subject.

 

[DivByZero]

x4. I did this years ago, no regrets. I don't even use silicone, just a stock heavy paper seal on the axle end. Gotta use a quality inner hub seal, OEM works well.

@Tools R Us (RIP) convinced me to go this route, after pointing out that heavy semi trucks and trailers have been doing it this way for ages. Oil beats grease by a long shot for lubricity. A search will probably turn up a post or two from him on the subject.

Wow, I'd never even considered this. I can see where it makes sense from some angles, but I do worry about how quickly you could toast those rear wheel bearings if an oil leak causes the oil level to drop in the rear diff housing. I'd personally use some red FIPG instead of the original gaskets for the hubs and axles, I think that'd be better if gear oil is running through there. The only thing I really worry about with this setup is a leaking rear diff pinion oil seal, you'd really need to keep an eye on that.

 

[thatcabledude]

What @Godwin said. I've never used silicone though.

If you wish, tap new seals in and if they leak, they leak. You'll be fine.

 

[jpoole]

My 80 is nearing 50k miles with just gear oil on the rear bearings with no leaks or issues. I check hub temps periodically, particularly when towing, and they don't run warm/etc. Bearing preload seems to have remained consistent as I've not had any play develop in the rear wheels. I used OE gasket and seals when I serviced the rear axle but I left the heavy grease packing and axle shaft seals out. A little grease on the bearings during assembly will protect them until the oil makes it to the hubs.

 

[DivByZero]

I've done more reading about this, and since realizing the hubs will create their own reservoir of oil even if you get an oil leak from the diff itself, I'm pretty sold on the idea of going gear oil only for the rears. I probably wouldn't do this if the stock setup was effective in keeping diff oil out of the hubs long term... but it's not, so if gear oil is going to get in there anyway, it seems like a pretty good idea, especially since it's a better lubricant for the bearings. I might actually do this when I next have cause to open the rear hubs.

I found this thread a good read:

Running rear wheel bearings in diff oil.

saw this and wanted to see what mud thinks of this? risky modification or a decent idea? Edit: I dont know if the link i posted is working. its a facebook video from Feb. 2018 by madmatt4wd. title is "Why I run my wheel bearings in oil and a heap of other tips I’ve found out." its on a 80 rear...

forum.ih8mud.com

I liked the tip about overfilling the diff by disconnecting the diff breather hose and filling from there to get a bit more oil in.

 

[-Spike-]

Wow, I'd never even considered this. I can see where it makes sense from some angles, but I do worry about how quickly you could toast those rear wheel bearings if an oil leak causes the oil level to drop in the rear diff housing. I'd personally use some red FIPG instead of the original gaskets for the hubs and axles, I think that'd be better if gear oil is running through there. The only thing I really worry about with this setup is a leaking rear diff pinion oil seal, you'd really need to keep an eye on that.

You can't use silicone (FIPG) anywhere but the outer axle flanges. The inner hubs use an oil seal, and the parts rotate against one another.

If the hub leaks, it's very obvious. A tiny bit of oil leaves a big mark on the driveway, tire, windshield of the guy behind you, etc. Plus, you should probably be more concerned about the carrier and pinion bearings, the hubs will have oil in them long after the diff runs dry.

I've done more reading about this, and since realizing the hubs will create their own reservoir of oil even if you get an oil leak from the diff itself, I'm pretty sold on the idea of going gear oil only for the rears. I probably wouldn't do this if the stock setup was effective in keeping diff oil out of the hubs long term... but it's not, so if gear oil is going to get in there anyway, it seems like a pretty good idea, especially since it's a better lubricant for the bearings. I might actually do this when I next have cause to open the rear hubs.

I found this thread a good read:

Running rear wheel bearings in diff oil.

saw this and wanted to see what mud thinks of this? risky modification or a decent idea? Edit: I dont know if the link i posted is working. its a facebook video from Feb. 2018 by madmatt4wd. title is "Why I run my wheel bearings in oil and a heap of other tips I’ve found out." its on a 80 rear...

forum.ih8mud.com

I liked the tip about overfilling the diff by disconnecting the diff breather hose and filling from there to get a bit more oil in.

I'd caution you about overfilling the diff. Toyota (and other manufacturers) put the fill plug at that location for reasons- it would have been easy to put it higher. It might affect running temps, venting, foaming, and maybe things you and I will never think of.

 

[Godwin]

When I filled the empty diff cavity and axle housing I added oil until it ran out the fill hole. I then jacked up one side of the axle, maybe a foot, don't rememeber, then the other side. The oil level at the fill hole was now low so I topped it off and it's been good since, ca. 50k miles.

 

[BILT4ME]

All of the 3/4 ton and 1 ton Chevy, Ford, and Dodge trucks all run gear oil in the rear hubs.

When I took apart my rear axle after buying it from the PO, the seal for the rear axle was floating down the middle of the shaft and the rear hubs were filled with oil. When I reassembled mine, I packed the rear hub bearings with grease that I confirmed compatibility with the gear oil because they WILL mix. The outer seal on mine wouldn't even stay in the end of the spindle tube well, even when new.

That's why I don't see how they wore a groove in the axle. It must have been well placed and dry when they installed it.

I don't see why you cannot use a speedi-sleeve on the axle shaft, but it could weep gear oil under the sleeve, but it would be minimal.