Do radiators get inefficient simply due to age? (1 Viewer)

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Yes.

Coolant looses its efficiency, as does waterpump, thermostat and radiator if not flushed periodically & will start to get internal build up, equally important the external cooling fins (both sides) should be cleaned periodically- condenser, radiator, oil cooler.

Based on your feedback of pulling trailer- and speed related temp increase, fan clutch could be slipping too much under load. If your fan clutch has never been replaced or the fan clutch oil hasnt been replaced; it might be warning that its loosing efficiency.

as always, what he said^
 
Getting back to OP. A coolant system properly maintained does not get internal deposit build-up from what I've seen. In those with deposit/scaling, that does make them inefficient. In the 50s, 60s and 70s we mixed tap water in coolant systems. Those radiator did get internal block (deposits) as did the heater core and block. We now know it was the minerals in water reacting with coolant to form deposits.

I've a 2000 >w350K miles which radiator I just replaced, internally it was fine. I actually pulled bottom and top plastic off and looked inside. The plastic was just starting to crumble so I swapped it out. History showed it had a coolant leak in water pipe hoses. I believe our plastic goes bad faster when not constantly submerged in coolant. That the top of radiator and hot heater tee (DS), which both get the most heat. They are also the plastic parts internally exposed to air, when system not properly burped. I've repeatedly found those upper plastic parts, showing more age related cracking in engine that had some coolant leak history or signs of leak.

I find this amount of build-up clogging fins very often.
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High mileage radiator exposed. Small radiator sitting on top is the transmission pre oil cooler, It sit in plastic shell that hose connect to at bottom of radiator.
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These appear to be 2 core radiators.
Not bad for 20 years and 350K miles. History indicated it wasn't well maintained in that flushes were infrequent, but always with red. It also had a coolant leak at some hoses and was reported low by Lexus.
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Sample of scaling pic from google search.
corrosion-radiator.gif


Would this be evident as a problem only when idling? My issue now is only when 75 mph and 2800+ rpm.

Could be either or both. I've seen where fan clutch is frozen (engine temps tend to stay cooler at higher RPM), others spin too freely and then with higher RPM increases air resistance fan hardly spins (runs hotter) and some so bad they wobble (vibration).

Once you've all coolant issues checked & sorted-out. Vacuum leaks checked & sorted-out (engine may run lean (hotter)), Spark plugs and coils all to spec and exhaust leaks checked & sorted-out.

If you then still have high temps and/or the P0430 come & go. I'd look to compression and fuel delivery.
 
Update..... When getting TB work done a year ago I remember the mechanic saying he replaced coolant as needed with “recycled” coolant he had in his shop , whatever that means. I recently remembered that so I drained about two gallons out of radiator and replaced with new 50/50 coolant to see how it may affect temps rising.

I just drove two hours on interstate at 75-80 mph. The highest temp got was 204.8 and stayed about 200 the entire way. 15-20 degrees cooler than before.
 

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