do i really need to burp the coolant system? (1 Viewer)

[BILT4ME]

Agreed.

And that's all burping does, get you to this point faster -- so you can worry about what else might be going on. If you prefer the patience is best method, that's cool, too, but its psychological torture for me to play that waiting game.


rc51,
If you're still worried about a HG failure or something else, they do make test kits for that, if it helps your peace of mind, since we are talking about that almost as much as the mechanical side of this fix now. Or just check under the oil cap for signs of the milkshake effect.

Do keep a close eye on temps until you've proven to yourself she's ready for that.

As I think we may have disagreed on this in the past, the "milkshake under the oil cap" proves that there is condensation, it DOES NOT offer anything related to a head gasket failure. All it shows is that the engine has not been operated long enough to burn off the moisture / condensation inside the engine block. It is NOT a diagnostic point.

 

[greentruck]

As I think we may have disagreed on this in the past, the "milkshake under the oil cap" proves that there is condensation, it DOES NOT offer anything related to a head gasket failure. All it shows is that the engine has not been operated long enough to burn off the moisture / condensation inside the engine block. It is NOT a diagnostic point.

Can't remember disagreeing with anyone on the matter.

I wasn't referring to it as a diagnostic point, but as a "maybe I should get the HG test kit moment" following my first suggestion to try that as another "peace of mind" datapoint. If you've been having overheating issues and such nastiness appears, it definitely needs further diagnosis, which I think is your point. I wouldn't pull a head because of milkshake, but I would certainly not be complacent about it if found.

Personally, I prefer the sniff test, which is also not definitive. Lots of things can leak and give you that smell, but if you're walking past the exhaust one day and all of the sudden that's the only place it seems to be stinkin' like that, it might just be another "maybe I should get the HG test kit moment." Then there are times when I'm sitting in traffic and get a big whiff. If no steam rises from under the hood, the temp stays normalish, and I get out and walk around to the exhaust at my destination and it's not smelling sweet, I'm good.

Obviously, one should be judicious in the use of barnyard mechanicking skills, but they're better clues than simply ignoring their uses.

 

[BILT4ME]

Can't remember disagreeing with anyone on the matter.

I wasn't referring to it as a diagnostic point, but as a "maybe I should get the HG test kit moment" following my first suggestion to try that as another "peace of mind" datapoint. If you've been having overheating issues and such nastiness appears, it definitely needs further diagnosis, which I think is your point. I wouldn't pull a head because of milkshake, but I would certainly not be complacent about it if found.

Personally, I prefer the sniff test, which is also not definitive. Lots of things can leak and give you that smell, but if you're walking past the exhaust one day and all of the sudden that's the only place it seems to be stinkin' like that, it might just be another "maybe I should get the HG test kit moment." Then there are times when I'm sitting in traffic and get a big whiff. If no steam rises from under the hood, the temp stays normalish, and I get out and walk around to the exhaust at my destination and it's not smelling sweet, I'm good.

Obviously, one should be judicious in the use of barnyard mechanicking skills, but they're better clues than simply ignoring their uses.

I apologize if I have mistaken you for another. I agree with your methodology of looking at the "whole" of the situation and using all your senses to determine if further diagnosis is needed.

Unfortunately, another poster advises frequently that if you have this under the cap, you have a bad head gasket, and that is not the case.

 

[LS1FJ40]

The only sweet, stinky smell coming from my 3FE powered 80 is the smell of some quality bud.

 

[NLXTACY]

I went overboard on making sure I got every air bubble possible out of my coolant system. Works great though:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-coolant-routing-delving-into-stupidity.802799/

 

[retrofive]

I went overboard on making sure I got every air bubble possible out of my coolant system. Works great:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-coolant-routing-delving-into-stupidity.802799/

Shocked I tell you, just shocked.

 

[BILT4ME]

I went overboard on making sure I got every air bubble possible out of my coolant system. Works great though:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-coolant-routing-delving-into-stupidity.802799/

If there is ever a $200 answer to a $5 problem.......ask Joey!

 

[NLXTACY]

If there is ever a $200 answer to a $5 problem.......ask Joey!

$200 and 18 hour answer

 

[tech_dog]

I just replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, and all rubber in my 94 cooling system, and now I'm overheating after about 15 minutes of driving.

I'm hoping, in order:

1) Air in the system, working this now
2) Bad thermostat not opening
3) What else?

I've got lots of heat coming from my heater, and the engine getting overheated after 15 minutes sounds consistent with a brand new thermostat not opening. It seems like a longshot for a brand new OEM thermostat to be the problem.

Any comments or guidance?

T.

 

[Irish Reiver]

I did the same back in October but I tested the thermosat before install. I had 3 OEM thermostats and none opened inside the range (84°C). They did all open albeit at over 90°C. Did you make sure to orientate the jiggle valve to 12 O'Clock. I think this is critical for bleeding air from the system.

 

[tech_dog]

Jiggle valve is at 12.

I just burped and I'm still overheating. I'm shutting down before I get to red.

I'm having a panic moment. I removed two covers for the new radiator ATF connections, but didn't see anything to remove for the coolant. Any chance there are plugs in the OEM radiator coolant connection points I missed?

T.

 

[tech_dog]

One last note, I did this job because my original radiator had a crack, but I never had issues with overheating before I did this work..

 

[bencallaway]

Got any bubbles in radiator or overflow tank? Losing any coolant? Check to see if your upper and lower radiator hoses are hot.

 

[tech_dog]

I had the same thought and just checked my hoses.

Heater is getting hot and staying hot. I believe that's confirmation that the water pump is creating pressure.
Top hose and top of radiator is getting hot.
Bottom hose isn't getting hot.

I've burped quite a few times now and I'm no longer getting any air out. I got another pint or so in, but that's it.

I think my next step is letting it cool down and check the brand new OEM thermostat, unless someone has a better idea. I hate to have to drain it again...

It sure seems like I'm not getting flow through the main hoses.

T.

 

[bencallaway]

I had the same thought and just checked my hoses.

Heater is getting hot and staying hot. I believe that's confirmation that the water pump is creating pressure.
Top hose and top of radiator is getting hot.
Bottom hose isn't getting hot.

I've burped quite a few times now and I'm no longer getting any air out. I got another pint or so in, but that's it.

I think my next step is letting it cool down and check the brand new OEM thermostat, unless someone has a better idea. I hate to have to drain it again...

It sure seems like I'm not getting flow through the main hoses.

T.

I’m sure someone smarter than me can suggest more troubleshooting methods. Check the tstat but after that I’d probably rule out HG with an exhaust gas test.

 

[tech_dog]

My 94's overheating problem is fixed. Here's a summary for the next guy:

• I had a cracked radiator, so I replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses, etc.
• After refilling I would overheat right after the truck warmed
  • Heater was hot
  • Top hose was hot
  • Bottom hose was cool
  • Engine got hot at idle and while driving
• I kept hoping it was air pockets, burped the heck out of it, no change
• I drained the system, and removed and tested the thermostat
• I replaced the thermostat, same one, refilled, and the truck ran cool

So, draining, testing the thermostat, and refilling fixed my overheating. My theories are:

When I drained the 2nd time to recheck the thermostat I got sediment with the discharge, maybe a teaspoon or so. I did my best to flush the system, but I'll bet I freed up sediment and it gathered at the thermostat, either blocking the thermostat air bleed jiggle valve or just binding and blocking the movement. I think the 2nd R&R removed the sediment and freed up the thermostat. This is my leading theory.

The thermostat was resistant to open when I first tested, but then started moving well. This could have been because of the sediment, or maybe it started out stuck and needed a bit more heat to get moving.

I wish I could know for sure...