Do I need to enter here? (1 Viewer)

[Hammer45]

So I’m here at the door to the front of the engine.

Ran fine but I’m desmogging, cleaning, checking and replacing stuff. About to head down the passenger side to do the galley plug and replace 4wd valves and clean up and replace all the heater valves and hoses. Since I am here, would you all recommend pushing forward into the timing chain area or replacing seals? It’s not leaking oil here. Engine has 204k. I appreciate your feedback. Hammer

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Could open the door more / book/ can of worms.

 

[cps432]

So I’m here at the door to the front of the engine.
View attachment 2655038Ran fine but I’m desmogging, cleaning, checking and replacing stuff. About to head down the passenger side to do the galley plug and replace 4wd valves and clean up and replace all the heater valves and hoses. Since I am here, would you all recommend pushing forward into the timing chain area or replacing seals? It’s not leaking oil here. Engine has 204k. I appreciate your feedback. Hammer

You’ve gone this far. It would be foolish not to. I’m almost certain that it’s leaking. There is no chain back there, however. It uses timing gears.

 

[Hammer45]

You’ve gone this far. It would be foolish not to. I’m almost certain that it’s leaking. There is no chain back there, however. It uses timing gears.

That is what I’m thinking. Just have no idea what comes next.

 

[cps432]

That is what I’m thinking. Just have no idea what comes next.

Download the repair manual. Sounds like you need it. CruiserManuals.com - https://www.cruisermanuals.com/

 

[tmxmotorsports]

That is what I’m thinking. Just have no idea what comes next.

Seals and head gasket side cover gasket oil pan gasket

 

[Hammer45]

Download the repair manual. Sounds like you need it. CruiserManuals.com - https://www.cruisermanuals.com/

got it. Thx!

 

[Hammer45]

Seals and head gasket side cover gasket oil pan gasket

So I wasn’t planning on pulling the head or really getting into the engine itself. First thing I did was compression check and to my amazement all were right near 148. So your recommendation would be to do the front and rear seals while I am here? I do plan on dropping the pans and doing those gaskets but doing the seals and dropping the transmission seem beyond my skill level but I am learning a lot. Did my first “weld a new nut on deep broken bolt” maneuver yesterday and felt like a hero when I got it out but I am not a real mechanic.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

JUDAS PRIEST !

that's ..well ?


degreaser solvent applied sits for 2 hours apply again let sit another 15min.

POWER WASH all off 100%

see whats you have then ?

its cant hurt and maybe well , then you focus your repair approach of the issues and not everything ?

this would be my approach for sure

 

[cps432]

So I wasn’t planning on pulling the head or really getting into the engine itself. First thing I did was compression check and to my amazement all were right near 148. So your recommendation would be to do the front and rear seals while I am here? I do plan on dropping the pans and doing those gaskets but doing the seals and dropping the transmission seem beyond my skill level but I am learning a lot. Did my first “weld a new nut on deep broken bolt” maneuver yesterday and felt like a hero when I got it out but I am not a real mechanic.

A few years ago I did what you’re doing. I replaced every gasket that didn’t require taking major components off. I did the oil pan, timing cover, side cover, front main, rear main, all hoses. New radiator etc. new oil pressure unit... I have just one very small leak from the oil pan and I have really great oil pressure now. It’s worth doing all the work. Use OEM parts anywhere you can. You’ll save yourself so much hassle and money in the long run.

 

[bcolvin]

I would do exactly what @cps432 said. It is a pain to go back into there and to have to do it later. I’m in the process of going back in.

But first degrease and clean up that whole area. The desmog should clean up your engine bay. It really would not be that satisfying to have all that gunk on the engine after you are finished. Also, if removing all the gunk does reveal a “can o worms” you were going to have to face that someday.

 

[Gretsch]

Get it done now. Any seals on these trucks are ripe for replacing if they haven't been done, regardless of if they leak now or not. You will hate yourself if you don't do it now while you have all that stuff out and leaks develop. The piece of mind you will get from knowing its been done is nice. There is the possibility of creating issues where there aren't any by doing this, but that doesn't change the fact that the seals are ready for replacement. Timing cover gasket can be tricky so study the manual on how its done. Torque on the timing cover bolts are in inch pounds not Ft. pounds and the bolts need to go back into the same holes from which they were removed. Some of those bolts need sealer and some don't. Crank pulley nut torque is insane on the 62. 253ft-lb. Have a wrench available that can do this.

Make sure you pay attention to what the manual says with regards to putting the timing cover back on. You put the cover on with the bolts finger tight, then get your pulley back on the crank and seated, and then tighten the timing cover bolts to their proper torque values. The reason for this is that with the bolts finger tight this allows the timing cover to slide into proper position around the crank pulley snout and seal properly. Many folks tighten down the cover bolts and then seat the crank pulley which can cause the crank pulley seal to be off center and leak. It can also warp your timing cover. The manual covers this however. It can be tricky to do all this at once by yourself while sealer is setting up. If I can do it you can, of that I assure you. GL and HTH.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Before you go any further, plug the holes with rags/whatever. Degrease, scrape and clean it up. You don't want any of
that crap inside the holes. Unless you're actually broken down on the side of the road, clean it up and when it goes back
together you can see leaks, omissions, problems etc

 

[Hammer45]

A few years ago I did what you’re doing. I replaced every gasket that didn’t require taking major components off. I did the oil pan, timing cover, side cover, front main, rear main, all hoses. New radiator etc. new oil pressure unit... I have just one very small leak from the oil pan and I have really great oil pressure now. It’s worth doing all the work. Use OEM parts anywhere you can. You’ll save yourself so much hassle and money in the long run.

Hey thanks for the input. I’ll go your route.

 

[Hammer45]

Get it done now. Any seals on these trucks are ripe for replacing if they haven't been done, regardless of if they leak now or not. You will hate yourself if you don't do it now while you have all that stuff out and leaks develop. The piece of mind you will get from knowing its been done is nice. There is the possibility of creating issues where there aren't any by doing this, but that doesn't change the fact that the seals are ready for replacement. Timing cover gasket can be tricky so study the manual on how its done. Torque on the timing cover bolts are in inch pounds not Ft. pounds and the bolts need to go back into the same holes from which they were removed. Some of those bolts need sealer and some don't. Crank pulley nut torque is insane on the 62. 253ft-lb. Have a wrench available that can do this.

Make sure you pay attention to what the manual says with regards to putting the timing cover back on. You put the cover on with the bolts finger tight, then get your pulley back on the crank and seated, and then tighten the timing cover bolts to their proper torque values. The reason for this is that with the bolts finger tight this allows the timing cover to slide into proper position around the crank pulley snout and seal properly. Many folks tighten down the cover bolts and then seat the crank pulley which can cause the crank pulley seal to be off center and leak. It can also warp your timing cover. The manual covers this however. It can be tricky to do all this at once by yourself while sealer is setting up. If can do it you can, of that I assure you. GL and HTH.

Thanks for the thorough reply. I’ll push on in.

 

[Hammer45]

Before you go any further, plug the holes with rags/whatever. Degrease, scrape and clean it up. You don't want any of
that crap inside the holes. Unless you're actually broken down on the side of the road, clean it up and when it goes back
together you can see leaks, omissions, problems etc

Spent 2 days with a pressure washer in the yard under, over and back and now that I’ve pulled stuff away from the engine, it looks like I never even tried to clean it. The greasy dirt is seriously 1/4 inch thick everywhere. Probably a pretty good rust preventer at this stage. Thanks

 

[Hammer45]

JUDAS PRIEST !

that's ..well ?


degreaser solvent applied sits for 2 hours apply again let sit another 15min.

POWER WASH all off 100%

see whats you have then ?

its cant hurt and maybe well , then you focus your repair approach of the issues and not everything ?

this would be my approach for sure

Guess I’m not that hip cuz I don’t get the reference. Does that mean I’m clueless? If it does, then I’m in full agreement.... I can read somewhat. I can watch YouTube. And as of yesterday, I can weld. I feel like Steve Martin in The Jerk when he learned to snap his fingers. “If I can do this, I can do anything!”

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Guess I’m not that hip cuz I don’t get the reference. Does that mean I’m clueless? If it does, then I’m in full agreement....

no no ,

i was not being snarky

your not clueless

i was referring to the amount of fossilized sludge and oil ridden dirt on the block face , that's the result of years or decades of a constant moderate oil sea-page and leaks , driving on dusty road every day that's all

i would consider the de-greaser soaking for hours approach the power wash hard core 100%

it will yield and smoke out the pinpoint oil leaks for you

the amount of stuff is simply " JUDAS PRIEST "

matt

 

[micruz60]

Easy-off oven cleaner can be helpful with cleaning off the "JudasPriest" of gunk, just don't leave it on too long, wear PPE.

Cheers

 

[Hammer45]

no no ,

i was not being snarky

your not clueless

i was referring to the amount of fossilized sludge and oil ridden dirt on the block face , that's the result of years or decades of a constant moderate oil sea-page and leaks , driving on dusty road every day that's all

i would consider the de-greaser soaking for hours approach the power wash hard core 100%

it will yield and smoke out the pinpoint oil leaks for you

the amount of stuff is simply " JUDAS PRIEST "

matt

Ahhhh. Had to urbandictionary that. Feel like I’m talking to my college kids up in here. Thought we was all 50 yr olds with time and money! Or something like that. BTW, I ALREADY used 10 cans of the heavy duty gunk degreaser prior to the 3000 psi pressure washer.

wire brush time I suspect. For the truck not my face.