Do I need to adjust valves after having my head resurfaced? (1 Viewer)

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Hi, I just had 6 thousands taken off my head. Bolted it all back together. Is it necessary to re-adjust my valves now? Since the head is slightly lower I'm wondering if it will affect how it runs.

I'm still learning how to work on engines. Thanks. (May 1973 F Engine)
 

Steamer

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For sure. I assume you removed the rocker assembly before removing the head. And if you did, you should have loosened all the adjusters first and then they would be all loose when bolted back on so the rocker assembly bolt & stud torque would be accurate. I check/adjust the valves anytime I have the valve cover off.
"This" thread has some info you might find helpful.
 

bkfj40

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0.08” to 0.1” @brian?
 

brian

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0.08” to 0.1” @brian?

I did 00.03..in hindsight after getting it back together and feeling the results...should have gone for nearly the full monty...00.08-00.1...as my results were pretty impressive just at 30.
 

middlecalf

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And check bolt lengths after.
 

middlecalf

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Yeah. They need to reach torque (95 ft-lbs) before bottoming out. If a lot of material is removed, they may reach bottom before enough compression keeps head gasket, et al, in place.
 
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Yeah. They need to reach torque (95 ft-lbs) before bottoming out. If a lot of material is removed, they may reach bottom before enough compression keeps head gasket, et al, in place.
How would I know if they hit the bottom? And what could I even do about this?
 

middlecalf

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Measurements of everything before putting the head and gasket in place. Mine‘s close, I need to do some more accurate measurements. Not fully compressed head gasket is one of the theories still on my plate for my coolant-in-oil issue (there’s no obvious failure in the head gasket - possibly one small area - so it’s possible the gasket simply wasn’t sealing sufficiently due to lack of full necessary compression from bolts bottomed out). I don’t have any history on my motor, so can only work from facts I have in hand like bolt length (incl washer), installed length (bottomed out), gasket thickness and head thickness.
 
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Steamer

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Thought I’d mention this.
With my head still in the shop and cleaning up the block, I recently chased the threads in the block with “THIS TAP”. The tap spun in easily quite a way with little to no resistance. Then for another 3 or maybe 4 turns, I had drag that felt like I was cleaning out existing threads that were there but had not been used. They felt crusty & corroded up. So, I’m thinking that on my F.5 anyway, that I have some wiggle room if my head gets a little machining. I’ll have to do some measuring when I get the head back to be sure.
 

EWheeler

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Thought I’d mention this.
With my head still in the shop and cleaning up the block, I recently chased the threads in the block with “THIS TAP”. The tap spun in easily quite a way with little to no resistance. Then for another 3 or maybe 4 turns, I had drag that felt like I was cleaning out existing threads that were there but had not been used. They felt crusty & corroded up. So, I’m thinking that on my F.5 anyway, that I have some wiggle room if my head gets a little machining. I’ll have to do some measuring when I get the head back to be sure.
I have to say, you're one of the top sources of engine tech on this website. I always appreciate and save the wisdom you share. Thanks for taking the time to make the posts you do and share the tools you use.
 

Steamer

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I have to say, you're one of the top sources of engine tech on this website. I always appreciate and save the wisdom you share. Thanks for taking the time to make the posts you do and share the tools you use.
You’re welcome and thank you. I prefer to think I’m just another wheeler struggling to learn about my rig and being retired gives me time to share some things I’ve figured out or experienced along the way. I appreciate the real gurus here who take time out of their busy life working or running businesses to share their knowledge with us.
 
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To check bolt length you can use a harbor freight mic and use the skinny end of slider to measure the hole depth then compare to bolt, shortem away if needed and if you do shorten run a nut onto bolt first so it will help dress the threads where cut when removed.
 
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Measurements of everything before putting the head and gasket in place. Mine‘s close, I need to do some more accurate measurements. Not fully compressed head gasket is one of the theories still on my plate for my coolant-in-oil issue (there’s no obvious failure in the head gasket - possibly one small area - so it’s possible the gasket simply wasn’t sealing sufficiently due to lack of full necessary compression from bolts bottomed out). I don’t have any history on my motor, so can only work from facts I have in hand like bolt length (incl washer), installed length (bottomed out), gasket thickness and head thickness.
You can just throw a washer under the head bolts? 🤔
 

middlecalf

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There should be a washer under the head bolt head, and its thickness should be included in the total bolt length (reduces the length).
 

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