trdcorolla
SILVER Star
Nice, did you replace the upper and lower rear arms or just the lower?
Do I need aftermarket parts? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ClassyJalopy
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- #22
I replaced both the rear (lower and upper control arms). They were original and in poor shape:
I’ve got the OEM replacements and plan to replace all four this weekend.
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- #25
Few tips I got from this forum:
Keep the truck on it wheels when working on Rear CAs. Take the spare off to give you easier access to the rear mounts of the upper control arms. The nuts are the ones you want to loosen and then tighten and torque upon assembly, the bolts have ridges that catch on to the mounting brackets and don't really move (an excellent design IMO).
Do one arm at a time, otherwise it would be a nightmare to get the axle to align with the frame!
Finally, I had trouble lining up the holes with the new arms and each time I had to raise the axle housing slightly on my jack to make them align. 3 out of 4 times I raised the SAME SIDE as the arm I was working on, the last one required raising the OPPOSITE SIDE!
I installed the axle side first on each arm and then raised axle slightly to align the frame side (frame side is easier to reach)
It took me about 2 hours at a leisurely pace. Good luck!
Keep the truck on it wheels when working on Rear CAs. Take the spare off to give you easier access to the rear mounts of the upper control arms. The nuts are the ones you want to loosen and then tighten and torque upon assembly, the bolts have ridges that catch on to the mounting brackets and don't really move (an excellent design IMO).
Do one arm at a time, otherwise it would be a nightmare to get the axle to align with the frame!
Finally, I had trouble lining up the holes with the new arms and each time I had to raise the axle housing slightly on my jack to make them align. 3 out of 4 times I raised the SAME SIDE as the arm I was working on, the last one required raising the OPPOSITE SIDE!
I installed the axle side first on each arm and then raised axle slightly to align the frame side (frame side is easier to reach)
It took me about 2 hours at a leisurely pace. Good luck!
I reduced clunking in mine by replacing the 3 front diff bushings. Soon I plan to replace rear coils from arms, new extended sway links, and everything suspension wise will be replaced on mine.
Side note, I replaced my front upper control as with SPC because the ball joints were worn. And I wanted flexibility to replace just ball joint on the uca going forward. SPC is a decent product, seems less a bargain now they are $700+.
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- #27
Good to know. BTW, I just replace the ball joints on both upper and lower control arm. $120 for 555 brand ones. I hear great things about SPC and other adjustable UCAs but fail to justify the price
I should have held on to my OEM arms and messed with replacing the ball joints and bushings to have spares. I was paying $500 for those SPC and I've bought several. Not sure if I will for $750 going forward.
Great advice. Thanks a bunch!
Replacement of those rear CA's is definitely something I want to do, or at least swap out the bushings. I think it will take out a slight clunk I've got. Glad to hear how it went for you.
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Change of plans this weekend. I have been anxious to get my wiring project at least started so I put the rear UCAs and LCAs project on hold. See “what did you do to your 100 Series this week” for wiring post.
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As is being talked about elsewhere in the 100 forums, if you replace the front UCAs, not bad to throw this bracket in at the same time OME FK27. Moab disaster turned best experience. Grandpas Garage!!!! BUY THE BRACKET! and they're only $27
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