Jim, Are stiffer springs better for the big cap dizzy ? I have a bunch of large cap dizz’s in a box and always wondered. I understand if you don’t want to comment. Thanks for above info.
Dizzy Teq (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Dizzy
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I don't like to say "use a 3in/lb at 2oz preload for primary" because it's not the correct answer for every install.
- Thread starter
- #23
So, back in the lab.
The centrifugal weights that 4Cruisers has for F engine appear different from the ones from my '75. This the image that 4Cruisers sent me:
Here are the 2F '75 smog spec. weights, on my bench (below). Also, I stopped by the Hillman Hardware at the store, and I found a few options for bushings. These are not 'nylon spacers,' rather, 'bushings,' for a #8 screw, they come in black, and white. I pressed these into the weights, then drilled the inner diameter to size. First, using a #18 drill, then a #17, then a #16, then a #15, then a #14. I held the bushing on its larger diameter with curved pliers, lightly, so it wouldn't squeeze, but it wouldn't spin. I should have cleaned the weights with acetone so the bushing wouldn't slip in the weight.
Then I chopped off the ends with an x-acto. I'm thinking that these parts would be subject to at least a cleaning, inspection, and lube, as part of a more involved tune-up. The amount of junk that was in these two distributors was quite astonishing. But here are the weights, refreshed and able to spin smooth on their spindles.
Also pictured are some #8 screw spacers that I thought I would consider for the cam governor pin.
I'm really thinking that testing the advance at lower and higher rpms with a light would be warranted. As the actual springs have probably lost some of their pull after 45 years?
FYI, in the Hillman drawers, you can find a 3/16" e-clip, they call it an, 'external retaining ring,' that might be good if the e-clip has been lost in the shop or whatever.
I had a hard time getting the order online for the distributor cam grease, and I didn't stop at AutoZone, yet. I'm thinking the chassis grease for parts under the breaker plate, and the cam spindle. However, there is a serious temperature-viscosity issue with the cleaned up bearings on the breaker plate, if an advance or retard unit is sensitive to vacuum, then would it be sensitive to what it is pulling on? Essentially, if the plate is assembled with axle grease, and pulled on in the cold, it is slow, and when I rinse the assembly in gasoline, it is silk smooth.
The centrifugal weights that 4Cruisers has for F engine appear different from the ones from my '75. This the image that 4Cruisers sent me:
Here are the 2F '75 smog spec. weights, on my bench (below). Also, I stopped by the Hillman Hardware at the store, and I found a few options for bushings. These are not 'nylon spacers,' rather, 'bushings,' for a #8 screw, they come in black, and white. I pressed these into the weights, then drilled the inner diameter to size. First, using a #18 drill, then a #17, then a #16, then a #15, then a #14. I held the bushing on its larger diameter with curved pliers, lightly, so it wouldn't squeeze, but it wouldn't spin. I should have cleaned the weights with acetone so the bushing wouldn't slip in the weight.
Then I chopped off the ends with an x-acto. I'm thinking that these parts would be subject to at least a cleaning, inspection, and lube, as part of a more involved tune-up. The amount of junk that was in these two distributors was quite astonishing. But here are the weights, refreshed and able to spin smooth on their spindles.
Also pictured are some #8 screw spacers that I thought I would consider for the cam governor pin.
I'm really thinking that testing the advance at lower and higher rpms with a light would be warranted. As the actual springs have probably lost some of their pull after 45 years?
FYI, in the Hillman drawers, you can find a 3/16" e-clip, they call it an, 'external retaining ring,' that might be good if the e-clip has been lost in the shop or whatever.
I had a hard time getting the order online for the distributor cam grease, and I didn't stop at AutoZone, yet. I'm thinking the chassis grease for parts under the breaker plate, and the cam spindle. However, there is a serious temperature-viscosity issue with the cleaned up bearings on the breaker plate, if an advance or retard unit is sensitive to vacuum, then would it be sensitive to what it is pulling on? Essentially, if the plate is assembled with axle grease, and pulled on in the cold, it is slow, and when I rinse the assembly in gasoline, it is silk smooth.
- Thread starter
- #25
So, I installed everything that I have for the decent one of my 61020s.
Cleaned, new Hillman bushings, clean environment, new grease.
Fresh grease pack on the breaker plate bearings. Rust removal and a bit of Boeshield on the homemade breaker plate grounding strap and attachment screws. Fresh points (with plastic cover) and terminal wire with boot from 4Cruisers. I still need the points grease from Autozone.
New points shield (PO tossed it), new spare capacitor and wire clip (in the event of igniter failure), rotor, and cap - all from 4Cruisers. One of the nice things about the 61020 is that I can have the capacitor mounted externally on the diaphragm screw without modifying the wire. Also, my 61080 didn't come with a boot over the wire on the housing? Also, the 61080 is kinda in the way of a large diameter oil filter, and it isn't quite a stock look for the truck. That, and I still don't know the advance curve for the 61080, so I don't know if it is working for me, or against me.
If I wanted to make this really nice, I willget the vacuum advancer. And, of course, when I install it, I will check it for dwell, and centrifugal advance numbers that more or less jive with the numbers posted earlier in this thread.
Cleaned, new Hillman bushings, clean environment, new grease.
Fresh grease pack on the breaker plate bearings. Rust removal and a bit of Boeshield on the homemade breaker plate grounding strap and attachment screws. Fresh points (with plastic cover) and terminal wire with boot from 4Cruisers. I still need the points grease from Autozone.
New points shield (PO tossed it), new spare capacitor and wire clip (in the event of igniter failure), rotor, and cap - all from 4Cruisers. One of the nice things about the 61020 is that I can have the capacitor mounted externally on the diaphragm screw without modifying the wire. Also, my 61080 didn't come with a boot over the wire on the housing? Also, the 61080 is kinda in the way of a large diameter oil filter, and it isn't quite a stock look for the truck. That, and I still don't know the advance curve for the 61080, so I don't know if it is working for me, or against me.
If I wanted to make this really nice, I willget the vacuum advancer. And, of course, when I install it, I will check it for dwell, and centrifugal advance numbers that more or less jive with the numbers posted earlier in this thread.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Howdy! It has been a little over a year since ToolsRUs passed, and I am finally going thru the shop sorting out all of the Land Cruiser parts that he had accumulated. So far I have cleaned up and identified 4 carbs, 3 igniter/coils, and 1 dizzy. I have another dizzy that I am confused about. the PN 19100-61101. All my searching has found that PN with pix of small round bottom caps and single diaphrams. But the one I have is a small cap with a square bottom and a double diaphram. I have never seen one quite like it. Any help identifying this cutie would be appreciated. I can get pix to post if needed. Thanks, John
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That is a 1979-80 Fed 2F dissy. Dual vac advance, electronic pickup, small screwdown cap.
