Dizzy & Coil Help !! (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 8, 2004
Threads
49
Messages
248
Location
Bonita, Tx
Bought an FJ-60 coil & dizzy (semi transitorized I believe don't know what year) to upgrade the 72 F on my FJ-55. Can't get it wired up right. The starter engages when the key is in the ON position prior to START. I have a BY that is hot in the ON position, a BW, and a B. Previous set up was conventional type. The BY & BW where hooked to the + on the old coil and the B was on the neg.
Then the hot wire from the neg attached to the old dizzy. I know it's simple, but I afraid I'm going to fry my coil & ignitor. It's getting dark and I'm running low on beer. :bang::bang: Need some relief from the peanut gallery.
DSC02247.JPG
 
The black wire with white stripe is only hot in the start position and it goes to the starter solenoid pull in coil.

You may have a black wire with a yellow stripe from the starter solenoid (that now looks like a white stripe because of age). This is the old ballast resistor bypass wire and you can remove it as it is not used on the later electronic ignitions after about '81. The larger black wire with yellow stripe that is hot when the key is on is the power feed to the ignitor and coil.
PS: The outer vacuum connection on the distributor is the advance side. You have the retard side hooked up now.
HTH
 
The black wire with white stripe is only hot in the start position and it goes to the starter solenoid pull in coil. Previous set up only had one wire (other than main from batt) running to the starter and it was to the flat connector on the outboard side of the solenoid.

You may have a black wire with a yellow stripe from the starter solenoid (that now looks like a white stripe because of age). This is the old ballast resistor bypass wire and you can remove it as it is not used on the later electronic ignitions after about '81. The larger black wire with yellow stripe that is hot when the key is on is the power feed to the ignitor and coil. Where does this hook to ?
PS: The outer vacuum connection on the distributor is the advance side. You have the retard side hooked up now. Thanks.
HTH

Thanks Pin Head....Mike
 
Previous set up only had one wire (other than main from batt) running to the starter and it was to the flat connector on the outboard side of the solenoid.

So where does the black wire with the yellow stripe connect to ?

Thanks...Mike
 
The large black wire with yellow stripe connects to the coil + post. Obviously, the FJ60 had plugs that fit into the green connectors, but you don't have the matching plug. You can either remove or tape the connectors out of the way.
 
Got that part fixed. Am getting good blue spark through the coil wire, but only a weak yellow spark at the plug wires. So weak that the engine won't even try to bust off. Timing is dead on. :bang: Thanks Pin.
 
If you get the engine running, it will eat itself for lunch. :eek:

The pic shows a 78 2F distributor w/ a '~72 "sardine can" clamp. The 74-earlier clamps are thicker/taller. The machined off clamp area on the 75-later dissys is shorter, a rare instance of backward IN-compatibilty on Cruiser. Using that clamp prevents the distributor from going all the way down and hitting it's shoulder on the top of the block. This results in dangerously insufficient oil pump engagement and eventual destruction of the dissy due to thrust wear.

Get a dissy clamp from a 75-80 2F and it will work fine.

On the weak spark issue, ensure there is a solid +12V to power the ignitor, and a good ground connection between the ignitor and the engine block (through the mounting foot, fender, fender to batt, batt.-frame grd cable, frame-engine grd. cable).
 
Jim..........how will the grounding issue effect good spark coming out of the dizzy ? Spark through coil wire is great, it's the spark being distributed that is weak and yellow. Thanks....Mike
 
Jim......any ideas what might cause the weak spark ? :bang:

Thanks....Mike
 
Besides the grounds and other connection, bad plug wires, dist cap and rotor could explain what you described.
 
New cap, rotor, and wires on the way. Hopefully that does the trick. Thanks for the help guys. :cheers:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom