Dizzy 180 degres out...move plugs wires or must remove and rephase? (1 Viewer)

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This is such a dumb question, and its designed to avoid work so its the worst of all but here it goes anyway...
My rebuilt motor has a DUI distributor and started right up but runs rough for the ~60 seconds altogether I have had it going. Clearly some misfires and not "happy." I suspect the distributor may be 180 degrees out of phase. I say that because 1. I did that with another maker's flat-6 motor once and it ran the same way 2. when I assembled the motor I thought I was sure I checked the phasing right, validating cylinder #1 was at TDC and verified the valve positions and the timing BB, but when I went to build oil pressure without spark I couldnt find the BB again until I re-positioned the distributor 180 degrees from where I first had it.

Now, I know some of you will say "pull the valve cover and check at TDC if #1 really is lined up with cap #1 and btdc of the BB. To you, I say "because I had to seal the cover to fix a leak and I really dont want to have to scrape it all off again and re-install.

So, is there an easy fix here by just moving the #1 plug on the distributor to #6, etc...or some other combination? Or do I really have to pull the distributor, rotate and go looking for the BB again?

Thanks!
 
Can you verify tdc by pulling #1's spark plug and seeing if the piston is truly at the top?
 
Swap the wires to verify 180 out. Then redo Dizzy or leave it like I did for two years. :rolleyes::beer:
 
Simple way is to stuff some toilet paper in #1 spark plug hole. w/coil wire disonnected, bump starter with remote trigger. On compression stroke, TP will pop out and sound like a "toy cork gun" Now with rig in 4th gear rock back and forth til you find 7° bb or 0° line on flywheel.

Note: if you have enough "runway" you can skip the remote trigger and just push rig until TP pops.
 
Yeah, thats the ticket. Whats the right swap order?

Pull #6 plug wire off plug, put on #1.
Keep working that way forward, 5 to 2, 4 and 3.
 
Can you verify tdc by pulling #1's spark plug and seeing if the piston is truly at the top?
Its at the top at both points...maybe blow some air into the #1 at TDC...if air comes out the head valves it would be at TDC but on the exhaust stroke. If it holds compression then its on compression stroke? Still, I would then be resetting the distributor and i really want to know if I can just juggle the wires on the dizzy and be on with it.

Then again I probably could have done it in the time of this typing, but I can do this at the work desk!
 
If the dist is truly 180* out and the plug wires are installed in thier proper order. Don't move any wires, just time it using #6 plug wire. Cylder 1 and 6 move in unison, ones on the exhuast stroke the other is on the compression stroke, the bb or TDC mark should be seen with either cyldr at the top of thier stroke. If not then something is not right.
 
I struggled with the same problem for a week. Checked TDC, Checked Compression of Valve #1, Problem ended up being, as I seated the distributor it rotated and was one tooth off. Something that small made it struggle to start and backfire.
 
Thanks everyone. I moves the wires around as described above but that wasnt the cure. Just noisy backfiring. I found the ignition timing off when I checked again. Did a compression test on each cylinder and confirmed timing again. Lets see what happens when I fire her up in the morning.

Here is another thread where I adjusted the fuel bowl level also. Lowering Fuel Bowl Level
 
Thanks everyone. I moves the wires around as described above but that wasnt the cure. Just noisy backfiring. I found the ignition timing off when I checked again. Did a compression test on each cylinder and confirmed timing again. Lets see what happens when I fire her up in the morning.

Here is another thread where I adjusted the fuel bowl level also. Lowering Fuel Bowl Level


i have a question, i did not see brought up here unless i missed something🤔


@thebigredrocker was giving good tech on how to find TDC on # 1 cyl

per the FSM , prior to installing your Dizzy back in your engine

why are you Not making the Repair / Correction By the BOOK / FSM

easy to follow step by step instructions ? so your end job / product results

are simply correct ?





i honestly think pulling it , , setting to TDC #1 , then carefully following the FSM step by step's will be faster in the long run hands down as well too !


i am going to take a leap here , and to be clear im not being critical in any way
just trying to help in a fact based TOYOTA by the book way , a Option you should consider ....in my opinion



but i will assume you do not have a factory TOYOTA 2F Engine FSM shop
manual ?


Well Now u Do ! :) :wrench:

i did not see your year land cruiser posted ?

so this is a 1/75 - 7/80 2F engine FSM manual , the step by steps

should in basic theory work on a older F engine 12/74 and earlier , i am almost certain ...........


good luck


:wrench:
C4F97077-451F-4B17-B1E7-C6113737FDB0.jpeg
714FD910-634C-45AA-A87B-6E4AB2A56DCD.jpeg
0C7CF0AB-C13E-4578-8E7E-65F4FBFAB99E.jpeg
 
Hi
i have a question, i did not see brought up here unless i missed something🤔


@thebigredrocker was giving good tech on how to find TDC on # 1 cyl

per the FSM , prior to installing your Dizzy back in your engine

why are you Not making the Repair / Correction By the BOOK / FSM

easy to follow step by step instructions ? so your end job / product results

are simply correct ?





i honestly think pulling it , , setting to TDC #1 , then carefully following the FSM step by step's will be faster in the long run hands down as well too !


i am going to take a leap here , and to be clear im not being critical in any way
just trying to help in a fact based TOYOTA by the book way , a Option you should consider ....in my opinion



but i will assume you do not have a factory TOYOTA 2F Engine FSM shop
manual ?


Well Now u Do ! :) :wrench:

i did not see your year land cruiser posted ?

so this is a 1/75 - 7/80 2F engine FSM manual , the step by steps

should in basic theory work on a older F engine 12/74 and earlier , i am almost certain ...........


good luck


:wrench:View attachment 2239122View attachment 2239123View attachment 2239124
Thanks for replying, to answer your question;
- I was away from the truck for a few days and wanted to have good advice on hand when I had a moment to try again I was productive and methodical from the outset.
- I did follow the 1F manual (mine is a 1F and as noted in the original post using a DUI distributor.)
- Having followed the manual, I was still having problems so I asked for a quick-and-dirty diagnostic check to see if I had committed a common mistake of having the distributor 180 degrees out.
- The Manual above relies on observation of the rocker arm #1, which I explained in my first post is not readily accessible. Or I should say I was asking for a quick way to check without having to remove and reinstall thh valvecover which I had just gotten to stop leaking...
- Prior respondents did provide the helpful wire-swapping order, that did very much help me eliminate timing phase as the issue. I have something else going on and may need help in another thread.
John

20200319_102019.jpg
 
Hi

Thanks for replying, to answer your question;
- I was away from the truck for a few days and wanted to have good advice on hand when I had a moment to try again I was productive and methodical from the outset.
- I did follow the 1F manual (mine is a 1F and as noted in the original post using a DUI distributor.)
- Having followed the manual, I was still having problems so I asked for a quick-and-dirty diagnostic check to see if I had committed a common mistake of having the distributor 180 degrees out.
- The Manual above relies on observation of the rocker arm #1, which I explained in my first post is not readily accessible. Or I should say I was asking for a quick way to check without having to remove and reinstall thh valvecover which I had just gotten to stop leaking...
- Prior respondents did provide the helpful wire-swapping order, that did very much help me eliminate timing phase as the issue. I have something else going on and may need help in another thread.
John

View attachment 2243027


- another easy full proof method i use to confirm TDC no. 1 is install a compression tester tool in #1 cyl

- when it begins to build pressure on gauge you know this is the correct stroke you are looking for ..........

good luck with your repairs , :)

kindly matt
 

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