DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (1 Viewer)

[hoser]

This is the constant torque/tension clamp I am talking about. The OE clamp is also a CT design. The one pictured go for about $5-6/ea though. Here is some additional info...

"Virtually all rubber hose compresses "cold flow" after installation of a clamping device, resulting in an almost immediate torque loss that can exceed 80% of installation torque. Similarly, virtually all metal connections expand as a system heats up, and then contracts as the system cools. Conventional worm-gear, T-Bolt, and other clamps are passive, in that expansion and contraction of components cannot be compensated for without retightening or loosening the clamps. This Breeze clamping system is an "active" clamp mechanism, which monitors and then compensates for the temperature changes by actually changing diameter through a unique worm-gear Belleville assembly."

http://www.breezeclamps.com/ct.htm

 

[paflytyer]

I think you guys are right. I felt at the time that my hoses were in good enough shape to wait until the next T change. But now I wish I would have just swapped them out too. For the few extra dollars you will spend on the hoses, you might as well change them. I don't think it's necessary at your first 90k, but it's not a bad idea either. Although, it will certainly add to the time/work because you're going to lose more coolant.
This is a situation where draining a gallon or so from the petcock into a clean container and replacing it when you're done would make sense.

I'm sure the stainless steel T's and those Breeze Clamps would really bullet proof the system, but the OEM plastic and OEM clamps lasted me 100k without failing too. As long as you change them every 100k or less, I think you're fine with the $15 in OEM parts instead of $150 in aftermarket.

 

[r2m]

Roger that.

When I get around to changing out the other Tee fitting with brass and lengthening the the hoses I'll definitely be getting some of these and replace what I have.

Thanks for the tip hoser!

 

[Layonnn]

Mine just busted as i pulled into the driveway grrr.

 

[Kigiin]

This https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/466198-t-fitting-heater-hose.html and this... (no issues with the brass - I understand brass and aluminum have been in coolant systems for the past 50 years).

 

[hks3sgte]

Just happened to the '02 LX with 166k miles. It ended up breaking on one side of the T but when I was changing it, all three sides turned out to be broken. Like rotten inside the hose. Now I'm worried about my '04 going through the same thing.


Untitled by hks3sgte, on Flickr

 

[Interpol]

Great thread!! I just noticed mine leaking and will be replacing this week.

 

[neoworm]

Has anyone got the part numbers for the hoses that connect to these fittings? I got the first half from the parts diagram in the other thread but it's not helping me. Thanks.

 

[SWUtah]

Just wondering there are no threads on the need to replace these hoses and plastic T's or about anyone having a hose failure that stranded them. I've searched this forum and other 100 forums. I know when I owned my 1995 FZJ80 that there was a hose failure that was common between the engine and the fire wall but you got a heads up because it started as a slow leak. How common is it in high mileage 100's?

 

[paflytyer]

Just wondering there are no threads on the need to replace these hoses and plastic T's or about anyone having a hose failure that stranded them. I've searched this forum and other 100 forums. I know when I owned my 1995 FZJ80 that there was a hose failure that was common between the engine and the fire wall but you got a heads up because it started as a slow leak. How common is it in high mileage 100's?

I haven't seen any threads on the hoses themselves actually failing, but those pipe T's have failed on people before. Even this thread has examples of that. I think it's just a matter of no one posting that theirs failed when they were far from home on the trail. It's bound to happen though.

 

[neoworm]

They're rubber hoses. Eventually they should be replaced.

 

[paflytyer]

They're rubber hoses. Eventually they should be replaced.

Yeah, I agree. I didn't change mine for the 90k service, but I will for the next one.

 

[cboyd]

Just wondering there are no threads on the need to replace these hoses and plastic T's or about anyone having a hose failure that stranded them. I've searched this forum and other 100 forums. I know when I owned my 1995 FZJ80 that there was a hose failure that was common between the engine and the fire wall but you got a heads up because it started as a slow leak. How common is it in high mileage 100's?

Given I'm planning installing a Helton, I'm assuming this would be the time to change out these T's and the hoses? Does anyone know if you end up using completely different hoses for that application, or do you basically replace these with a different type of T.

The Helton is on my list, but if its a recommended 90k interval item, I might move that up in my timeline! I'm at 187k.

 

[Phx99Cruiser]

I saw this thread a couple of months ago and purchased the OEM t-fittings and six little heater hoses that directly connect to them online. Long story short, with the holidays and hunting weekends I never got around to crawling back there an changing them all out (looked like a PITA anyway).

Couple weeks back a banging-like sound developed from the front of the engine bay. I took my LC into Murph (fellow LC owner and member here) at Camelback Toyota here in Phoenix to diagnose and repair. While there, I had them R&R the T's and hoses - in addition to the six there were another 2 or 4 (can't remember) way in the back that they also changed-out. Murph and Camelback Service have a great reputation and I know they did a great job at a fair price. The T's were not broken or cracked yet, but one was very brittle - I have no doubt I'd have problems in the near future. In the next twelve-eighteen months or so when it's time for the T-belt and water pump, etc. I'll have them replace the little rubber bypass hoses in front, as well.

Wheeling into some remote areas hunting and exploring I don't want some little part that's been overlooked stranding me. After all, I change-out the upper and lower radiator hoses every few years, why not these every twelve+ or so? For me, having this done was just added insurance, and the additional $100 or so for all of those specialty hoses was a drop in the bucket when you consider you only do this once every 12-15 years or so. Here in Phoenix with the dry air and high temps I feel this was a good investment in preventative care.

Just wanted to share - nothing more.

 

[SWUtah]

I saw this thread a couple of months ago and purchased the OEM t-fittings and six little heater hoses that directly connect to them online. Long story short, with the holidays and hunting weekends I never got around to crawling back there an changing them all out (looked like a PITA anyway).

Couple weeks back a banging-like sound developed from the front of the engine bay. I took my LC into Murph (fellow LC owner and member here) at Camelback Toyota here in Phoenix to diagnose and repair. While there, I had them R&R the T's and hoses - in addition to the six there were another 2 or 4 (can't remember) way in the back that they also changed-out. Murph and Camelback Service have a great reputation and I know they did a great job at a fair price. The T's were not broken or cracked yet, but one was very brittle - I have no doubt I'd have problems in the near future. In the next twelve-eighteen months or so when it's time for the T-belt and water pump, etc. I'll have them replace the little rubber bypass hoses in front, as well.

Wheeling into some remote areas hunting and exploring I don't want some little part that's been overlooked stranding me. After all, I change-out the upper and lower radiator hoses every few years, why not these every twelve+ or so? For me, having this done was just added insurance, and the additional $100 or so for all of those specialty hoses was a drop in the bucket when you consider you only do this once every 12-15 years or so. Here in Phoenix with the dry air and high temps I feel this was a good investment in preventative care.

Just wanted to share - nothing more.

How many miles and how old is your 100? Has it always been in AZ?

 

[paflytyer]

Given I'm planning installing a Helton, I'm assuming this would be the time to change out these T's and the hoses? Does anyone know if you end up using completely different hoses for that application, or do you basically replace these with a different type of T.

The Helton is on my list, but if its a recommended 90k interval item, I might move that up in my timeline! I'm at 187k.

Getting in touch with Kurt from Cruiser Outfitters might be your best bet for Q's about the Helton and these T's. I think they've done a lot of those heat exchanger installs. http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/helton.html

 

[paflytyer]

I saw this thread a couple of months ago and purchased the OEM t-fittings and six little heater hoses that directly connect to them online.

Do you have the Part numbers for the hoses?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Given I'm planning installing a Helton, I'm assuming this would be the time to change out these T's and the hoses? Does anyone know if you end up using completely different hoses for that application, or do you basically replace these with a different type of T.

Our kits do include two new 5/8" (or 3/4") brass t-fittings. Traditionally they are used to tee into the hot side of your heater circuit and again into the cold side of the circuit. However, I went right from the hot side of the motor, into the Helton and then back out into the factory plastic tee. I put new factory plastic tee's in when I did the install, if we wouldn't have been out of stock on the brass ones, I would have gone brass.

 

[GaFJC]

Do you have the Part numbers for the hoses?

I just ordered mine ('00) from Sam at Lowe:

87248-60460 $7.87 ea Heater “T” x2

 

[paflytyer]

I just ordered mine ('00) from Sam at Lowe:

87248-60460 $7.87 ea Heater “T” x2

That's the part # for the Pipe T's, not the hoses.