cruiserpatch
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DIY Factory Nakamichi Head Unit 3.5mm Aux Install '98-02 (I think this is the same unit through 2002 but could be wrong).
I really enjoy the factory look of my head unit in my '99 LX470 but have been frustrated by the low sound quality of my $2 FM radio adapter.
I decided to figure out a way to install a stereo 3.5mm (AKA Auxiliary cable) input bypassing the over-the-air waves.
I found a company in California who will do this for $60 plus shipping (which I am sure is expensive right now). I know we mudders can do better
I might consider doing this for others if interested. PM me and we can work it out.
This mod uses the AM radio input contacts, bypassing the radio. This means that when a device is plugged in, playing music, and the unit is on the AM radio function, the user's audio from the 3.5mm cable takes precedence. When unplugged, the radio reverts back to AM audio. Both systems operate harmoniously and can therefore be used to full functionality.
I will post pictures and steps in the thread below.
I removed the side brackets from the unit so that it would rest easily on the bench. Not required but if you want to, Phillips head sriver or 8mm socket
(Skip to step three (3) if you know how to remove the head unit and/or trim facia)
Tools/materials I found useful and/or are required:
Flathead(s)
Phillips Head Driver(s)
Wire cutters/crimpers/strippers
22-18 AWG wire - I chose a very firm wire so that I could mold it to fit the shape I wanted for the install (three colours is cool but unnecessary)
Heatshrink (varying sizes)
Heat gun or hairdryer (not pictured)
Soldering iron or gun (not pictured)
Alligator clips and/or magic arm (not owned, ergo not pictured)
3.5mm stereo (three distinct bands) female or male jack (I chose female, the male pictured is leftover from the job)
One (1) small crimp connector, screw type (red is close size for 22-18 guage wire)
1. Remove wood grain or other center facia trim -
I don't have pictures for this because it has been covered more times than an old plaster wall. That said, use trim removal tools or if you like, a flathead screwdriver (be careful not to scuff the dash). There are four points of secuirty on the sides of the trim (2 each side).
2. Remove radio -
Once the trim is out of the way, remove the radio using a Phillips head screwdriver (4x screws).
Once the screws are out, pull the unit away from the dash and disconnect the singular harness from the unit. There are also two (2) antenna cables that plug into the back of the unit. Remove these.
3. Void Warranties -
Cut the yellow seal tapes if they have not already been cut away. Mine had been "remanufactured" (the CD player was removed to prevent ER3 or whatever the famous error was) so the seals were already broken.
For this mod one must only extract two (2) screws from the unit. On the back of the unit the farthest left screw and the second screw from the right must be removed in order to open the top panel.
A nice large tip driver is best for these screws. Some significant pressure may be required.
4. Remove top panel -
Pry up on the top panel to remove it. Be gentle but don't be afraid to use a bit of muscle. I think I used a flathead to pry it open the first time.
The wires protruding from the back are not factory. We will get there. I stupidly took photos after the job was done.
Continued in next post...
I really enjoy the factory look of my head unit in my '99 LX470 but have been frustrated by the low sound quality of my $2 FM radio adapter.
I decided to figure out a way to install a stereo 3.5mm (AKA Auxiliary cable) input bypassing the over-the-air waves.
I found a company in California who will do this for $60 plus shipping (which I am sure is expensive right now). I know we mudders can do better
I might consider doing this for others if interested. PM me and we can work it out.
This mod uses the AM radio input contacts, bypassing the radio. This means that when a device is plugged in, playing music, and the unit is on the AM radio function, the user's audio from the 3.5mm cable takes precedence. When unplugged, the radio reverts back to AM audio. Both systems operate harmoniously and can therefore be used to full functionality.
I will post pictures and steps in the thread below.
I removed the side brackets from the unit so that it would rest easily on the bench. Not required but if you want to, Phillips head sriver or 8mm socket
(Skip to step three (3) if you know how to remove the head unit and/or trim facia)
Tools/materials I found useful and/or are required:
Flathead(s)
Phillips Head Driver(s)
Wire cutters/crimpers/strippers
22-18 AWG wire - I chose a very firm wire so that I could mold it to fit the shape I wanted for the install (three colours is cool but unnecessary)
Heatshrink (varying sizes)
Heat gun or hairdryer (not pictured)
Soldering iron or gun (not pictured)
Alligator clips and/or magic arm (not owned, ergo not pictured)
3.5mm stereo (three distinct bands) female or male jack (I chose female, the male pictured is leftover from the job)
One (1) small crimp connector, screw type (red is close size for 22-18 guage wire)
1. Remove wood grain or other center facia trim -
I don't have pictures for this because it has been covered more times than an old plaster wall. That said, use trim removal tools or if you like, a flathead screwdriver (be careful not to scuff the dash). There are four points of secuirty on the sides of the trim (2 each side).
2. Remove radio -
Once the trim is out of the way, remove the radio using a Phillips head screwdriver (4x screws).
Once the screws are out, pull the unit away from the dash and disconnect the singular harness from the unit. There are also two (2) antenna cables that plug into the back of the unit. Remove these.
3. Void Warranties -
Cut the yellow seal tapes if they have not already been cut away. Mine had been "remanufactured" (the CD player was removed to prevent ER3 or whatever the famous error was) so the seals were already broken.
For this mod one must only extract two (2) screws from the unit. On the back of the unit the farthest left screw and the second screw from the right must be removed in order to open the top panel.
A nice large tip driver is best for these screws. Some significant pressure may be required.
4. Remove top panel -
Pry up on the top panel to remove it. Be gentle but don't be afraid to use a bit of muscle. I think I used a flathead to pry it open the first time.
The wires protruding from the back are not factory. We will get there. I stupidly took photos after the job was done.
Continued in next post...
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