DIY Fuel Pump Replace

Joined
Apr 27, 2011
Messages
7,520
Location
San Diego
Replaced a fuel pump recently as part of resolving an idle fuel pressure issue. Diagnostic thread here:

Didn't find much documentation on this site so here's my attempt for future reference.

Couple strategies to do this. From above through the cabin access hatch, or below via dropping the tank. Having done this, dropping the tank is the way to go. Avoids cutting the body to enlarge the access hole. Then inevitable fight with the tight retention ring. Quicker and easier, albeit messier and working in a more uncomfortable position. Roughly a 2-4 hr operation, or 3 out of 5 banana job. Run fuel down ~0 mile range, leaving about 3-4 gallons to make dropping easier.

Parts (please check for year compatibility)​

23220-50271 Fuel Pump ~$290
77169-02050 Fuel Pump Assembly o-ring ~$7

Options:
83320-60580 Fuel level Sender ~$140
77020-60342 Fuel Pump Assembly ~$451 (Recommend for incrementally more, just replace the whole assembly which includes fuel level sender which has been known to go out on occasion)
77144-04010 Fuel Pump Retainer Ring ~$42

References:​



Tools:​

  1. Tall jack stands (6-ton)
  2. 12 and 14mm socket
  3. Fuel pump lid/ring removal tool. Or hammer and dull chisel/metal bar
  4. Shop vac or air compressor
  5. Floor jack

Steps:​

  1. Discharge fuel pressure
    1. Remove C/OPN Relay in engine bay relay block
    2. Crank over engine to bleed off pressure
  2. Remove Fuel Tank skid
    1. 5x 14mm bolts
  3. Prepare Fuel Tank for Removal (reference video)
    1. Remove 2x forward lines: fuel pump feed and return line alongside tank. Held together by plastic retainers that pops out easily by hand or gentle pressure with a flat blade
    2. 1660014477510.png
      1660014649242.png
    3. Remove 3x rearward lines: large diameter tank fill (10mm hose clamp), fill breather (pop up brown retainer, and squeeze side button fuel connector) , evap canister breather (pop up green clip). Remove from body retainers
      1660014745702.png
  4. Drop tank - supported by floor jack, transmission jack, or the like. Not very heavy, but needs to be supported to control drop to undo fuel tank harness
    1. Remove two straps. 2x 12mm bolts. Remove retaining clip and pin. Remove straps
    2. Drop tank ~10". Reach up and around tank, right behind trailer arm link on frame, to unclip harness (reference video)
    3. Drop tank completely out. Guide rearward lines.
      1660015055421.png
  5. Clean top of fuel tank before opening pump assembly. Recommend a shop vac with brush head
  6. Remove 2x lines from pump assembly cover. Cover ports.
  7. Open pump assembly
    1. Mark retaining ring position. (You'll need to tighten back or almost back to this position)
    2. Use fancy ring removal tool. Or old school hammer to gently tap tap, reposition 180* tap tap, repeat. Gentle taps and potentially hundreds of taps so as not to break ring. It'll only give a mm at a time, and need to turn ~180 degrees for it to loosen up enough to turn. Don't count on it turning full circles with any tap. Patience.
      1660015101942.png
    3. Note 4 safety catches that needs to be depressed when opening
  8. Solve jigsaw puzzle to disassemble housing.
 
Last edited:

grinchy

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Feb 17, 2018
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A note on the evap line clips (green vertical clips) - only loosen to halfway. If you push the clip further one of the legs will break. I was unable to find just the clip available for resale.
 

CharlieS

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Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
6,081
Excellent write up. I've only been in there from the top, but wonder if it might be worthwhile to go in via to top to disconnect wire harness and lines that are accessible there?

Also, the tool for removing those locking rings isn't super expensive. I have one from when I rode bmw adventure bikes; they use the same arrangement. I think the tool was under $20. The hammer and chisel does the job, but the tool spreads the force well and reduces the likelihood of breaking fins on the lock ring.

image.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 27, 2011
Messages
7,520
Location
San Diego
Excellent write up. I've only been in there from the top, but wonder if it might be worthwhile to go in via to top to disconnect wire harness and lines that are accessible there?

Also, the tool for removing those locking rings isn't super expensive. I have one from when I rode bmw adventure bikes; they use the same arrangement. I think the tool was under $20. The hammer and chisel does the job, but the tool spreads the force well and reduces the likelihood of breaking fins on the lock ring.

View attachment 3082316

Curious how long it takes to remove the interior pieces to get at the access cover?

The time to do that is what discouraged me. From the bottom, it's 7 bolts, 5 lines, and 1 plug, all readily reachable. 30 minutes if I were to do it again.

There's no need to remove the fuel lines from the access hatch prior to dropping the tank. The fuel line pigtails come down with the tank. Unclipping the harness plug blind wasn't too bad either thanks to the reference video. Ample slack and space to reach in to squeeze the plug release from below.

For the tool, I would recommend it's worth the $20, easily found on Amazon. I thought I could get away without it having done fuel pumps on a couple other cars before (this access ring is on TIGHT). At the same time, I hate single use tools and figure I could cobble or fabricate something together. To your point, the single fins on the ring can be brittle so it would be important to spread the torque load with a proper tool.
 

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