DIY body lift
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Body lifts are for Jeeps.
And that's all I need to say on that subject.
~John
Dont you like that big gap and exposed chassis look?
I thought it was all the rage in North America
http://128.83.80.193/scarysteering/index.html
Dont you like that big gap and exposed chassis look?
I thought it was all the rage in North America
Scary Steering!
holly wacks that is really bad haha
a mate of mine put 3' body lift in his 73 it looks abosolute sh1t with that big gap, looks like you could dive through it and the headlights are inline with the bullbar etc
If you want the sh1t look and cheap spacing blocks go to a boat shop and get some rubber block things they use as rollers on the boat trailers
you would be best of getting springs and shackles even just shackles make the look change
What size tyres are you running mate??
I would have to disagree with the all the hating on body lifts 
It actually suit my needs very well. However 3inch is a bit excessive, 2inch is more acceptable.
-It gave me room for my 35inch tyres
-It let me use a custom spring pack to give me much better suspension travel than an off the shelf 2inch lift
-It only cost about $150 versus $1000-$1500 for a suspension lift
-It raised my sills, quarter panels and fuel tank (now the fuel tank is level with the rear shackles) for much better departure angle
-The gap between the crossmember/radiator allows me to run my PTO winch shaft above the crossmember for a much higher PTO winch (havent actually done this yet although it looks like this is the case)
-I have a lower COG than the equivilant 2inch suspension lift which is all the more important on a SWB
The only downsides i can see would be the "ugliness" of the gap between the chassis. Because i dont run a bullbar this is hardly noticable, and in the rear I used a piece of garden edging to hide the gap between the body and chassis, and the side steps are lifted up with the body.
Here is a picture once fitted with a 2inch body lift.
And the advantages of running a combination of soft stock leaf packs
However there are also many advantages to a suspension lift which might suit your needs better, but i certainly would not go a SPOA and a body lift.
It actually suit my needs very well. However 3inch is a bit excessive, 2inch is more acceptable.
-It gave me room for my 35inch tyres
-It let me use a custom spring pack to give me much better suspension travel than an off the shelf 2inch lift
-It only cost about $150 versus $1000-$1500 for a suspension lift
-It raised my sills, quarter panels and fuel tank (now the fuel tank is level with the rear shackles) for much better departure angle
-The gap between the crossmember/radiator allows me to run my PTO winch shaft above the crossmember for a much higher PTO winch (havent actually done this yet although it looks like this is the case)
-I have a lower COG than the equivilant 2inch suspension lift which is all the more important on a SWB
The only downsides i can see would be the "ugliness" of the gap between the chassis. Because i dont run a bullbar this is hardly noticable, and in the rear I used a piece of garden edging to hide the gap between the body and chassis, and the side steps are lifted up with the body.
Here is a picture once fitted with a 2inch body lift.
And the advantages of running a combination of soft stock leaf packs
However there are also many advantages to a suspension lift which might suit your needs better, but i certainly would not go a SPOA and a body lift.
If you don't raise the bars to match the body lift, of course it is going to look stupid.
Look at this image
http://www.amu.net.au/skin/frontend/default/default/images/body%20lift%20blocks.jpg
If you get the top right block in a 3inch version, you remove the factory rubber spacer and you get a 2inch lift.
If you use either the top left, or bottom right version and put a 3inch block then it will give a 3inch lift, as you put this block directly onto the factory block. I dont think the bottom left version is applicable for our trucks.
The factory rubber spacers allows the body to flex and move slightly over the chassis so IMO it is best left in. Removing the rubber spacer will make the body too rigid to the chassis and you have more chance of damaging body mounts.
http://www.amu.net.au/skin/frontend/default/default/images/body%20lift%20blocks.jpg
If you get the top right block in a 3inch version, you remove the factory rubber spacer and you get a 2inch lift.
If you use either the top left, or bottom right version and put a 3inch block then it will give a 3inch lift, as you put this block directly onto the factory block. I dont think the bottom left version is applicable for our trucks.
The factory rubber spacers allows the body to flex and move slightly over the chassis so IMO it is best left in. Removing the rubber spacer will make the body too rigid to the chassis and you have more chance of damaging body mounts.
careful is what i will say...
a small body lift can actually look nice and practical and cheap
but
thsi also means longer bolts going through the block. the longer bolts will have more leverage placed upon them when cornering, accelerating, stopping, sidehilling. you need to keep an eye on the bolts for loosening and stress. if you feel that floating feeling, stop immediately and check out why. your brakes and steering can be affected.
the one truck i did we welded the blocks to the frame and used the factory mounts and bolts to reattached the body.
just saying, common sense needs to come into play.
as for how much lift? you still will need the rubber mounts so what ever blocks you use will be the lift you get.
a small body lift can actually look nice and practical and cheap
but
thsi also means longer bolts going through the block. the longer bolts will have more leverage placed upon them when cornering, accelerating, stopping, sidehilling. you need to keep an eye on the bolts for loosening and stress. if you feel that floating feeling, stop immediately and check out why. your brakes and steering can be affected.
the one truck i did we welded the blocks to the frame and used the factory mounts and bolts to reattached the body.
just saying, common sense needs to come into play.
as for how much lift? you still will need the rubber mounts so what ever blocks you use will be the lift you get.
If you don't raise the bars to match the body lift, of course it is going to look stupid.
Sorry simon ..What i should have said is if you body lift 3"s then you will also have to customise some plates or brakets etc to lift your front bar other wise itll look like snot
Yes, it is more than just chucking in some blocks to do it properly.
Mods are required to front/rear bars, sliders if on chassis, radiator hose, brake lines, steering shaft, gear/transfer levers/boots, etc.
Mods are required to front/rear bars, sliders if on chassis, radiator hose, brake lines, steering shaft, gear/transfer levers/boots, etc.
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you also end up with shifter interference, steering column issues, brake line mods, drop the clutch line, electrical harness will be tight in places with a 3".
Bruce (Lowenbrau) did a 1" lift (i beleive) and it looked good.
Bruce (Lowenbrau) did a 1" lift (i beleive) and it looked good.
Marks 4WD Adapters recommend welding a washer onto the body to reinforce it, preventing cracks in the mount...
Body Lift Kits
Do you put the rubber mounts above or below the body lift blocks?
Also, if you have a turbo, turbo pipes/connections to air box will need to be modified.