Distributor Re Install (1 Viewer)

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Sep 4, 2019
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Location
NJ
I tore the head off the bolt that clamps down the dizzy after setting the timing, pulled out the dizzy and was able to drill out bolt successfully. After putting the dizzy back in and re timing, it wasn't accelerating well. So I took the dizzy out again and decided to try to setup from scratch.

These are the steps I took are the correct? Also Dizzy is an DUI HEI.

took dizzy out
took number 1 spark plug out
put car in 4th and jacked 1 rear tire
rotated rear tire to set BB to 7 degrees BTDC and made sure that there was compression on cylinder 1
put dizzy back making sure it was flush and that it would turn oil pump and tightened
put dizzy cap back on and where ever the rotor was pointing I connected spark plug 1
then in clock wise connected spark plugs 5,3,6,2,and 4
started car and set timing and idle

after i took it for a spin, it felt low on power/acceleration

when setting the timing I couldn't advance it as far as I wanted to because a coolant pipe was in the way.

Can someone please confirm that the steps above are correct, I would like to do it again but inserting it in a position that the vacuum doesn't hit the coolant pipe when trying to advance/set timing. Am I correct that it doesn't matter in which position the dizzy goes in as long as it seats with the oil pump and when i put the cap back on I line up spark plug 1 on the cap with with where the rotor is pointing?

Thanks!!!
 
I tore the head off the bolt that clamps down the dizzy after setting the timing, pulled out the dizzy and was able to drill out bolt successfully. After putting the dizzy back in and re timing, it wasn't accelerating well. So I took the dizzy out again and decided to try to setup from scratch.

These are the steps I took are the correct? Also Dizzy is an DUI HEI.

took dizzy out
took number 1 spark plug out
put car in 4th and jacked 1 rear tire
rotated rear tire to set BB to 7 degrees BTDC and made sure that there was compression on cylinder 1
put dizzy back making sure it was flush and that it would turn oil pump and tightened
put dizzy cap back on and where ever the rotor was pointing I connected spark plug 1
then in clock wise connected spark plugs 5,3,6,2,and 4
started car and set timing and idle

after i took it for a spin, it felt low on power/acceleration

when setting the timing I couldn't advance it as far as I wanted to because a coolant pipe was in the way.

Can someone please confirm that the steps above are correct, I would like to do it again but inserting it in a position that the vacuum doesn't hit the coolant pipe when trying to advance/set timing. Am I correct that it doesn't matter in which position the dizzy goes in as long as it seats with the oil pump and when i put the cap back on I line up spark plug 1 on the cap with with where the rotor is pointing?

Thanks!!!
If you think you need more advance pull the dizzy back out and set it back one more tooth
 
Distributor (stock or HEI) should be installed at TDC on the compression stroke. This is the line on the flywheel. Not the BB.

HTH
 
Be sure that your at TDC on the compression stroke to start with. Rockers at #1 should be loose, you can feel for them through the oil cap on the valve cover.
 
When you set the timing (using a timing light?) did you remove and plug the vacuum advance tubes? After you set the timing, did you reconnect the vacuum advance tubes to the correct positions?
 
re installed dizzy again using TDC not BB, wouldn't start, assuming I was on an exhaust stroke and not compression stroke, instead of removing dizzy and setting to TDC I moved that spark plug wires 360 around the dizzy, it started on first try, no misfires, but does not seem to be accelerating as good as before, when i moved the plugs 360, would the engine run with out missfires if i was off by 1 plug when move them? trying to determine if poor performance / acceleration is because of dizzy or if it is something else like carb related.

Am I safe to assume that if the engine runs with out missfires dizzy is installed correctly and I need to set timing properly?

Should I set timing to 7 degrees or should i do it based on vacuum, what vacuum do you guys have at 7 degrees of timing?
 
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you should set your timing with a timing light to 7 degrees BTDC (the BB) or perhaps use a vacuum gauge measuring manifold vacuum at idle. I don't know how you would use compression to adjust timing.
 
Sorry I meant vacuum not compression... How much vacuum do your engines have at 7 degrees?
 
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Sorry I meant vacuum not compression... How much vacuum do your engines have at 7 degrees?

At sea level on a healthy engine you should be pulling 21” or so. I would set your timing to the BB with a timing light and then adjust the carb for proper vacuum reading. (Granted you may or may not achieve 21” depending on elevation and engine health.) The lean drop method in the FSM is the desired method for tuning a stock carb.
 
Vac should be 15" -21" with a steady needle (at idle) in a healthy motor. HEI dissy will have just one vac line. Plug when adjusting.

How long since last valve adj?

If engine is desmogged, you can advance timing gradually till it pings, then back off a couple degrees. Most end up at 10* TDC
 
i set timing back to 7 degrees and took it out for a spin, at idle it wanted to shutoff, had to pull choke out some to drive back at which point the engine felt full of power, i know i need to re do lean drop method, but i am thinking i have a vacuum leak related to carb rebuild, will have to do lean drop, then put smoke machine on to see if there are any vacuum leaks
 

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