Dissent offroad modular roof rack install (1 Viewer)

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benc

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Jul 14, 2014
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Hi guys,
I'm going to atempt to put together some install instructions for the roof rack.
Unfortunately I'm pretty light on pics so more pics to come.
I have not taken any pick of removing the factory rack but there are plenty of threads on that.

Tools needed.
6" 1/4" drive ect,
1/4" drive swivel,
1/4" drive ratchet
1/4" drive x 1/2" socket
1/4" drive x 7/16 socket
12 millimeter socket
Clear rtv silicone
Assortment of screwdrivers
Optional, Recommend tools,
Cordless impact with 1/2" socket.

Step #1
Unpack and layout the rack and all hardware.
The base rack will include,
1 front fairing,
1 rear fairing.
3 left side skirt,
3right side skirt.
8 side skirt stiffener plates (6hole)
2 front load bar spacers. (4hole)
2 rear faring spacers (1hole)
6 nut plates
8 roof mount base plates
8 roof mount upper plate
5 load bars.

Hardware
16 Ss m8 roof bolts with bonded washers

16 Ss 1/4 20 nylocks with washers

90 5/16x3/4" bolts with washers

1 front fairing weather strip

Step #2
Remove factory rack and roof gutter trim along with the spacers and front roof bolts.
(The new rack will bolt up to 8 mouting points on the roof.)

#3
Clean the gutters thoroughly, clean the old adhesive around the mounting bolts on the roof.
It is also recommend that you wash and apply a good coat of wax to the roof before installation of the new rack.

#4
Apply sealant and install base roof mounts.
For this step you want to apply a generous amount of silicone the the roof and completely fill the bolt holes, lay a 1/8"X 1/4" bead between the holes and foil the holes to the point where there is about 1/4" of sealant sticking up.
image.jpeg

Next, install the base roof mounts with the studs facing inward, (note, the front 2 mounts have a slightly smaller bolt pattern than the rest)
image.jpeg

Press firmly onto silicone until it comes through the holes about 1/4", then install the m8 bolts with supplied washers.
image.jpeg

Now you can tighten the roof bolts, these should be tightened up to the point that the stainless washer starts to bend inward into the rubber washer.
Don't be to worried about the rubber washer as this is only there for a little extra added protection, the silicone will be doing most of the work.
Now repeat on all 8 mounts.

#5
Install top roof mounts and load bars.
Place the top roof mout bracket onto the pressed in studs, install 2 1/4" stainless washers and 1/4" stainless nylocks, do not tighten at this time.
image.jpeg

Next install the load bars over the brackets, get them close to centered and install the bolts into the side of the load bars but do not tighten at this time.

image.jpeg
 
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image.jpeg


#6
Install the skirting stiffeners to the side skirts as shown in the pics. You will install the lower bolts only and get them finger tight, there are 4 six hole stiffeners per side and 1 four hole spacer, the 4 hole spacer will get installed with the front load bar and will not be installed at this time, note that the fist logo is at the rear of the rack, also note that the center side skirts are left and right so they will only fit in one direction.
image.jpeg

image.jpeg


#7 installing the skirtings.
Now you can install the skirtings to the load bars, again, get all bolts started but do not tighten untill rack is fully assembled!
With side skirting on you can now install the front load bar with the 4 hole spacers, then install the weather strip to the front fairing and install both front and rear fairings.
While all bolts are clearanced, due to manufacturing tolerances some of the bolts may take a little extra effort to get started. It is very important that care is taken not to cross thread the bolts as the nuts are pressed into the aluminum.
If this does for any reason happen contact me and I'll walk you through the repair process.

#8 alignment.
Now with the entire rack assembled and all bolts finger tight we will move on to alignment.
I am still trying to figure out the easiest way to do this so this step may change in the future.
So far this has worked the best.

Using 4 of the nut plates as spacers place them under the second from the back load bar like shown.
image.jpeg
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Now your going to work from that seam forward making sure the seam goes together straight snugging up the center bolts first,
image.jpeg

Then the bottom bolts,
image.jpeg

And now the top bolts.
You want these tight enough that the parts don't move around but not completely tightend yet.
The cuts are perfectly straight so as long as the seam is lined up propperly the rack will straighten it's self out.
Now that the rack is straight, spacers are in place you want to check the rack for center and ajust accordingly.
Once the rack is centered you can start tightening the roof brackets.
Using the 6" ext with swivel firmly press down the front of the rack against the front of the cab with the weather strip installed and tighten the 1/4" nylocks. Now move to the second from the back where the spacers are, check that it's still touching the spacers and tighten the 1/4" nylocks, do this on both sides.
Now make sure everything looks straight and snug up all bolts.
Once snug do one final walk around double checking for alignment, open the rear hatch slowly and make sure all clears.
The rack should measure about 2 3/4" from the top of the rear window to bottom of the skirting on center of the rear grab handle.
image.jpeg


It should also measure about 3" from the top of the front door to the bottom of the rack center of the front grab handle.
image.jpeg

Once desired alignment is achieved all 5/16 bolts can be tightened to aprox 10fp and all 1/4" to aprox 5fp.


I hope this covers everything and please feel free to chime in if I missed anything.
Thanks!
Ben
 
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So w the spacers that sit above the roof ribs, do they actually sit on the ribs? Mine have been removed, so im wondering if it would produce noise when contacting the roof...
 

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