Any pics or help on how to get that connector undone? I have big hands and just can't seem to get it apart in the limited space that the connector is jammed into.
Thanks
Thanks
Disconnecting main wiring harness from behind glove box (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Miguelon
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What model? On a 93 you can drop the ECU and there are 4 connectors to unplug. Dropping the ECU makes it easier.
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- #4
IMG_4022[1] by Michael Harrison, on Flickr
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- #5
IMG_4024[1] by Michael Harrison, on Flickr
Last edited:
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- #6
That one is the bugger. I just don't have the room to look at the other side.
It is a 97 LX if that matters.
It is a 97 LX if that matters.
Sometimes they are counterintuitive as to how they actually come apart. But most of the time, you need compress a tab while you try to slide the connector apart. I agree, it's very hard to do in such a confined space.
The engine harness should have 3 connectors on the part that goes through the firewall.
The engine harness should have 3 connectors on the part that goes through the firewall.
In your picture you linked, the push tab is on the RH side of the big connector.
Sometimes you just gotta pull on the wires while you press the tab.
Sometimes you just gotta pull on the wires while you press the tab.
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- #9
Alright. I don't have it off but I made progress. I mashed on the button with my left (strong side) thumb and it moved a bit. Very tricky. The male end is towards the firewall so I can mash it but can't get a grip to pull the male side connector out. I think I can just pull the harness from the engine compartment while mashing the button. (The hood is off and I am a big dude so that is actually possible.)
I will feel rather silly if that is all it was. I was nearly to the point of hitting it with garden shears and calling it a day. (jk, jk)
I will feel rather silly if that is all it was. I was nearly to the point of hitting it with garden shears and calling it a day. (jk, jk)
bloc
SILVER Star
The trick is to depress the tab BEFORE pulling on the plug. This way the catch clears and doesn't dig in and then keep the button/tab from being pressed. This is important enough that sometimes if the catch doesn't clear you are better off pushing the plug back together and starting over.
From this side it may be easier to use a jewelers screwdriver to pry the detent down then pull on the plug.
From this side it may be easier to use a jewelers screwdriver to pry the detent down then pull on the plug.
Are you doing this because you're pulling your engine?
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- #12
Yes. I am pulling the motor. The headgasket is leaking as well as a rear main seal. Given the difficulties of both of them, it is best to just pull the motor and get to them at the same time.
sbman
Supporting Vendor
I had the same trouble getting that connector off. I ended up just pulling on wires while the tab was held down. After a good bit of struggling it came off.
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- #14
Thanks. That was the help I needed. I was timid about reefing on the connector but it all worked.
Harness is out by Michael Harrison, on Flickr
Harness is out by Michael Harrison, on Flickr
- Thread starter
- #15
BTW, gotta love those frozen exhaust studs that turn into exhaust bolts over time.
The other end of that harness goes back over the top of the transmission to a connector on the passenger side, then continues on to both of your O2 sensors. There are also two connectors that continue on along the driver's side of the transmission, but they can be disconnected (you still have to fight them of course!).
The transmission connector has a tab. Push on the tab with a long screwdriver while you pull down on the harness. There is no way to get both hands up in there.
If you can afford it, buy a new harness for your rebuild. It will save you a ton of time and effort. It's pricey, but very nice to know your harness is brand new.
The transmission connector has a tab. Push on the tab with a long screwdriver while you pull down on the harness. There is no way to get both hands up in there.
If you can afford it, buy a new harness for your rebuild. It will save you a ton of time and effort. It's pricey, but very nice to know your harness is brand new.
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- #17
I will consider a new harness. This one looks like it is in great shape but it is 18 years old and has 315k on the clock.
