Disc conversion and Bigger Tires (1 Viewer)

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It's a 74 40, just got done upgrading to OME 2.5 lift this weekend. A couple of questions.
1. Rims are oem 15" getting ready to do an axle swap to convert to disc and matching up the rotors to see if i will need to upgrade to a 1976 rims
The rotor is from a 76 40 and the caliper is from a 94 4runner
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2. Also will be replacing the tires after the disc conversion to 33" but noticed this, which made me think it might rub against the steering linkage or leaf? What yall think?

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Other than that suspension upgrade went smoothly, Is the shackle angle or no angle good?

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Typically, you should run later model stk 40 welded rims to run stk 40 disc brakes in the frt. Drum brake rims are assembled with rivets, the rivet heads interfere with the caliper. You might be able to alter the riveted wheels so they fit. There are wheel stops on the frt and rear of the axle that can be adjusted so the tires dont contact the steering rod or springs. Vertical shackles will typically offer a rougher ride.
 
Typically, you should run later model stk 40 welded rims to run stk 40 disc brakes in the frt. Drum brake rims are assembled with rivets, the rivet heads interfere with the caliper. You might be able to alter the riveted wheels so they fit. There are wheel stops on the frt and rear of the axle that can be adjusted so the tires dont contact the steering rod or springs. Vertical shackles will typically offer a rougher ride.
Thank you for the input, i didnt noticed rivets but will take a closer look.
Regarding turn radius, i will need to look into the knuckle stopper bolt, thank you i learn something new from this forum every time i do a project.
Will need to research more on how to get better angle on the suspension shackle, for whats its worth it was a night and day diff compared to the orig suspension.
 
Your springs are new and will settle/relax slightly as they age. That will change the shackle angle as well. As stated, no rivets in the rims means they may work. When adjusting the wheel stop bolts make sure to set both sides.
 
Your springs are new and will settle/relax slightly as they age. That will change the shackle angle as well. As stated, no rivets in the rims means they may work. When adjusting the wheel stop bolts make sure to set both sides.
Yes, adjust left and right and frt and back on the frt axle.
 
Well looks promising on the rims its faint but i think i read 11/77, correct me if im just seeing things or hoping too much. I did find last night that theres a Toyota dealer that sells orig 77 rims for $94.00 that was going to be my next move, this saved me $500

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Stock late 40 calipers will fit under the later (currently available) stock 15" wheels, but the 4Runner calipers are said to need grinding on the outside to fit. Haven't tried the 4Runner calipers myself, but I'd like to some day.
 
way not just use 40/60 series calipers?....they have more than enough stopping power, but so do the drums.
You know i am debating whether to do exactly what you stated. Im more concerned in doing the knuckle swap, because i need to replace the axle shaft seal asap. This brings a question, the knuckle im swapping it with is from a 60 series, will a 40 caliper mount to a 60 knuckle?
 
You know i am debating whether to do exactly what you stated. Im more concerned in doing the knuckle swap, because i need to replace the axle shaft seal asap. This brings a question, the knuckle im swapping it with is from a 60 series, will a 40 caliper mount to a 60 knuckle?
Yes.
 
way not just use 40/60 series calipers?....they have more than enough stopping power, but so do the drums.
No, they don't. Not really. And four wheel drum brakes are a constant maintenance chore and rarely stop straight when you really stand on them. 4Runner calipers are too easy an upgrade not to do on any of the pre-fj80 Cruisers that you own.
 
i have never felt underbraked in any well maintained drum braked cruiser, and i dont see how 4runner calipers are an upgade when the oe calipers can effortlessly lock up the fronts as is....on mildly modified street driven cruisers....larger then 33's are off my radar.
 
i have never felt underbraked in any well maintained drum braked cruiser, and i dont see how 4runner calipers are an upgade when the oe calipers can effortlessly lock up the fronts as is....on mildly modified street driven cruisers....larger then 33's are off my radar.
We just exist in different worlds I guess. I don't think I have ever had a customer bring in a rig with well maintained drum brakes. :confused: And I am asking the brakes on my 40 to stop 40 inch boggers on the street and 45 inch ag ties on the trails. ;)

You don't even want to talk about how ineffective drum brakes are right after a decent immersion. Or about for much longer after a decent immersion they can refuse to do anything at all at extremely cold temps.

I specifically remember the brakes on my '62 fading away to nothing coming down a long steep fire road somewhere in the Canadian Rockies a few years ago as they overheated and whined and cried about it. No brakes, an auto tranny and a steep winding road does not add up to fun! :(

While my case may be a bit beyond average parmeters, 33 and 35 inch tires are pretty standard on '40s . Even if the actual stopping performance of the factory drums with little tires does not bother you, an upgrade to 4Runner calipers costs virtually nothing in the budget of Cruiser Ownership. The cost of a rear disc conversion is often cheaper than the one time cost of returning a neglected braking system to correct standards. After the fact routine brake service and maintenance is simple and cheap for the rest of the life of the rig. And the routine maintenance and service is an order of magnitude less than with the factory brakes.

I sure as hell won't fault anyone who wants to keep their Cruiser as OEM as possible and who is willing to do the extra work to make it function at high levels. There is major appeal to a "as close to original as possible beauty queen" as well as a "beat to hell with stories to tell battle scared survivor". But there is no legitimate argument in my mind that the simple and cheap commonly done brake upgrades are not worth doing if OEM is not your primary goal. :)


Mark...
 
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We just exist in different worlds I guess. I don't think I have ever had a customer bring in a rig with well maintained drum brakes. :confused: And I am asking the brakes on my 40 to stop 40 inch boggers on the street and 45 inch ag ties on the trails. ;)




Mark...
clearly in different worlds
 
I think both points are clearly presented, but anything I buy that has drums gets converted. All other break components are inspected and updated as well.

OME 2.5 lift - great choice really makes a difference. I run the same setup with bilstein shocks.
 
Thats what great about this forum, pros/cons are discussed without sugar coating or biases.
I really want to go with the 4runner caliper for the availability of pads as i dont know how long before inventory of older 40s parts will last. But hesitant due to the grinding of the caliper body that i just learned about. Choices....choices...
 
Thats what great about this forum, pros/cons are discussed without sugar coating or biases.
I really want to go with the 4runner caliper for the availability of pads as i dont know how long before inventory of older 40s parts will last. But hesitant due to the grinding of the caliper body that i just learned about. Choices....choices...
It just barely qualifies as "grinding". Put a flap wheel on your angle grinder and gently round off a couple of angles and you are done.

Mark...
 
Some run a thin wheel spacer, which is what I did for years— now putting FJ60 rims on and will no longer need the spacers. Again pros and cons for you, some people won’t run wheel spacers.
 

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