Builds Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap (1 Viewer)

[Dubbinchris]

Always following as most of what you’re doing is in my future.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I think I’m cruising at +/-2,100 on 35s and 8% overdrive. I would run it with the 4.10 and stock gears first.

Yes I agree, makes sense to drive for a while before tearing into the case.

 

[Ronny Grady]

I’m interested to hear your review of the Harrops. Will you use the stock locker dial?

 

[Dirty Koala]

I’m interested to hear your review of the Harrops. Will you use the stock locker dial?

Yes I have a factory dial switch that I will be wiring in.

 

[thegogglesdonothing]

Yes I agree, makes sense to drive for a while before tearing into the case.

So I'm on 4.10s and stock t-case, but have been considering just regearing down to 3.54 - Marks out of OZ sells a kit I've been eyeing. I'm certain my 15-17mpg is down to the engine spinning too fast, so my options seemed to be 37" tires and 3.54 diff gears. What's the t-case reduction gear you've got?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

So I'm on 4.10s and stock t-case, but have been considering just regearing down to 3.54 - Marks out of OZ sells a kit I've been eyeing. I'm certain my 15-17mpg is down to the engine spinning too fast, so my options seemed to be 37" tires and 3.54 diff gears. What's the t-case reduction gear you've got?

Thats the same MPG I am getting but I also drive 70-75 everywhere I go. Once you get above the 2,000 rpm mark I think mileage goes to s***.

 

[thegogglesdonothing]

Oh yeah, I happily cruise 75-80mph on the highway, and a lot of my miles are done that way. Downhill off a big mountain pass and with a tailwind, I've seen 18mpg!

 

[Dirty Koala]

So I'm on 4.10s and stock t-case, but have been considering just regearing down to 3.54 - Marks out of OZ sells a kit I've been eyeing. I'm certain my 15-17mpg is down to the engine spinning too fast, so my options seemed to be 37" tires and 3.54 diff gears. What's the t-case reduction gear you've got?

I have the terrain tamer 10% overdrive high range gears for the HF2AV. I also have the Marlin 3.1 low range gears to get installed.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I have been chugging away at the front end an hour here and an hour there the past 2 weeks. Finally got it buttoned up last night.

Fresh 3rd from Zuk @gearinstalls.com loaded with cryo treated 4.10 gears and a Harrop locker.
Here is a link to Zuk's detailed build thread of my diffs

Stripped the knuckles and hubs completely...figured I would replace everything while I was in there...Wheel bearings, trunions bearings, seals, studs and hardware.

New axle seal driven in with one of @NLXTACY's offset seal drivers. Great little tool.

One of the drivers side trunion bearings was toast. Good thing I have a decent supply of rebuild kits accumlated from @orangefj45, @cruiseroutfit and @beno

New knuckle studs and hardware all around.

New Hub studs and hardware all around too.

 

[Dirty Koala]

About 200lb of Slinky Stage 4 goodies showed up today from @AutoCraft Aus and @dockbox, hoping to get most of it installed next weekend.

 

[Box Rocket]

Speaking from experience you may need to enlist some help (mechanical or otherwise) to help compress the shocks when you install them. I definitely wasn't burly enough on my own and had @treerootCO do it and it's was a challenge for him as well, and the truck was on a lift at the IH8MUD HQ. Can't imagine trying to do it get the shocks compresses while lying on your back under the truck. Floor jack may be the answer. Some series pressure in those puppies.
IMG_7947 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

 

[Dirty Koala]

Speaking from experience you may need to enlist some help (mechanical or otherwise) to help compress the shocks when you install them. I definitely wasn't burly enough on my own and had @treerootCO do it and it's was a challenge for him as well, and the truck was on a lift at the IH8MUD HQ. Can't imagine trying to do it get the shocks compresses while lying on your back under the truck. Floor jack may be the answer. Some series pressure in those puppies.
IMG_7947 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Yes that is the part I am not looking forward to. When I installed King 3.0's on my ram I was able to droop the axle axle far enough that i didn't need to compress the shocks...no sure If I am going to be able to do that again. In any case I have jacks and a buddy to help out.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Spent a bunch of time this weekend working on the truck.

I replaced all of my steering linkage components. The tie rod and relay rod are beefy DOM from Slee with 4 new OEM TRE's.

It was fun figuring out how to align the toe. I went with the 4 pieces of aluminum angle and a micrometer approach. I think I got it dialed in with just a tad more toe than factory spec which apparently is good with the larger tires.

I then turned my attention to an oil leak. I replaced the turbo oil return gasket...no pictures, but it was a pretty simple process once you figure out how to contort your body to get the bolt closest to the block.

Now onto the fun stuff! Since the Cummins requires two batteries wired in parallel for starting duties I had to re-think my battery management strategy.

My plan was to put a 3rd battery (Group 31 Deep Cycle AGM) in the rear. My custom drawers have a sub/battery box built into them. I went with a Duracell Platinum as the dimensions were perfect for my enclosure and it is a 105aH battery.

With a quarter panel mount on hand from @NLXTACY I got to work wiring up the core of my components.

• Blue Seas ML-ACR w/ remote switch
• REDARC BCDC1225D
• 2 x Blue Seas 40a Midi fuses (for the BCDC)
• 12 circuit Blue Seas fuse block (will be used for fridge, USB outlets, Aux Camp lighting etc.)
• 100 amp Blue Seas circuit breaker for fuse block
• A couple power posts for connecting house bank and start bank to panel.
• ARB Twin Compressor.
• 2 x Blue Seas 200a Mega fuses mounted close to batteries.
• All primary cable is 1/0 AWG and appropriately sheathed.
• Fuse block is 4 AWG
• REDARC is 8 AWG

I still need to mount the panel in the cruiser and run the wires for both the ARB switch and ML-ACR switch to the dash.

 

[OGBeno]

Wow.



Nice Morgan.

 

[NLXTACY]

Hell yeah!

 

[Dirty Koala]

I am sure someone is going to look at this setup and ask the question "Why are you running both a Blue Seas ML-ACR and a REDARC BCDC1225D?"

The answer is because nothing on the market does everything that I want.

My functionality wishlist:

• Be able to change two battery banks of different battery types with charging profiles specific for those battery types. (I run lead acid for starting and AGM for House)
• Be able to charge all battery banks via solar.
• Be able to link both battery banks on the fly to allow self jump starting.
• Self jump starting needs to be rated for 400+ amps (the Cummins draws 400-475 when cranking)

The BCDC1225D handles charging of the house bank of different battery type via alternator or solar power very well, whereas the ML-ACR doesn't handle battery banks of different types..its either connect or disconnect. The ML-ACR also has no solar controller.

The BCDC1225D can't be used to charge the primary bank nor can it be used to jump start yourself, this is where the ML-ACR comes into play. The ML-ACR is rated for 500a continuous load.

The way I have them configured, I will leave the ML-ACR in the off/disconnected state under normal conditions to allow the BCDC which is much more intelligent to charge the house bank.

If I want to jump start myself, I will connect the ML-ACR until the engine is running and then disconnect it again.

If I want to charge the primary bank using solar, I will connect the ML-ACR once the solar charge on the house bank has reached 13+ volts.

The other added benefit, but likely never will be need, is this adds a layer of redundancy, if the BCDC fails, I can use the ML-ACR as it is wired to change the house bank...it just won't do as good of a job of managing multiple battery types and it can't handle solar input.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Had a light 9 hour power session in the shop last night with one of my mates.

We got the Slinky Stage 4 suspension installed along with Blackhawk HD rear sway bar and upper/lower control arms from @AutoCraft Aus. Also replaced the front sway bar bushings with new OEM. Even though we were in an 8 lift shop...we did the suspension on the floor...didn't feel comfortable picking the truck up behind the radius arm mounts with the cummins up front.

Also got a bunch of electrical work done.

Installed the Quarter panel mount from @NLXTACY. I had to remove my drawer side wing to get enough room to work...folks at the shop where impressed with this product.

I ran +/- 1/0 AWG cables from the mount up the passenger side and out the firewall grommet to start battery #2. This cable is protected by a 200amp blue seas mega fuse.

I also re-did the positive and negative cables that link start battery 1 & 2 in paralell with 1/0 AWG...no pics of the cable work yet.

 

[fireball]

Looks good Morgan! Where will the connection be for the air hose? Do you have any concerns with heat from the compressor in that mounting location?

 

[Dirty Koala]

Looks good Morgan! Where will the connection be for the air hose? Do you have any concerns with heat from the compressor in that mounting location?

I have an air tank that will mount under the truck in the spare tire location and will be running lines to front and rear bumpers...I haven't got that far yet. I am not too concerned with heat...I will likely open the cover door when I am running the pump to get some extra air flow. If it becomes a problem i will install an Aux pusher fan and vent.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Buttoned up the slinky stage 4 install alobg with black hawk upper/lower control arms and HD rear sway bar...the ride feels very controlled even with all the extra weight I am carrying...the truck is no light weight either. Much more pleasant ride than with the OME comp springs and clapped out shocks. I cant wait to get some miles on this setup.

Dont mind the loose nut, this was an in progress shot before everything was tightened up.

Anti-rotation pins are a nice touch once you figure out how to install them.

Had three oil leak to address which became a major pain in the arse.

1. Turbo oil return gasket...this was easy.
2. Unused Cummins oil pressure sensor on side of block was leaking. I wanted to put my Isspro oil pressure sending unit in there but isspro designed it so you can't use a socket to install and the location makes using a wrench impossible...so 1/8" NPT pipe plug sealed it up.
3. Now the fun begins. The Vacuum Pump/Power Steering pump seals were leaking. Had to remove the pipe to get access from underneath and had to remove the P/S pump and Vacuum pump seperately. Replaced all three seals and put it back together. Start it up and its leaking still. Pull it apart again and determine that the inner seal in the vacuum pump is getting unseated while installing the P/S pump in the truck. Can't install it as one unit due to lack of space so had to get creative...installed not one but two inner seals together...this prevented the seal from getting pushed out of the way during install....no more leaks.

Finished up with an oil & filter change and replaced the oil pan drain plug with a valve for easier oil changes.