Builds Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap (4 Viewers)

[Dirty Koala]

Good progress!

Thanks. I had really hoped to get a lot more done this weekend...running out of weekends between now and GSMTR.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I drill holes in the wrong spot, like you did, all the time.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Thanks. I had really hoped to get a lot more done this weekend...running out of weekends between now and GSMTR.

How much time you have left?

I learned last go round never to set or plan anything when doing a swap. Causes more issues than it needs. Just makes the whole process more stressful.

 

[Dirty Koala]

How much time you have left?

I learned last go round never to set or plan anything when doing a swap. Causes more issues than it needs. Just makes the whole process more stressful.

I had planned to leave for GSMTR on 5/16 or 5/17. So about a month left. I was hoping to be wrapping up around now, would have been nice to have had a month of local shake down runs before a long distance trip.

I just went back out to the garage and got my cross member bolted up in place, glad to have that project completed.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I had planned to leave for GSMTR on 5/16 or 5/17. So about a month left. I was hoping to be wrapping up around now, would have been nice to have had a month of local shake down runs before a long distance trip.

I just went back out to the garage and got my cross member bolted up in place, glad to have that project completed.

Ah yeah, deffinantly want a month and at least 500miles of shake off parts on it before a long distance trip. How long of a trip is it?

My goal is on the road around mid May. That will then give me 2 months shake off parts time to make sure it's solid. Before a decently remote trip.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Ah yeah, deffinantly want a month and at least 500miles of shake off parts on it before a long distance trip. How long of a trip is it?

My goal is on the road around mid May. That will then give me 2 months shake off parts time to make sure it's solid. Before a decently remote trip.

I am in NJ, and GSMTR is down in TN, so it's a fairly decent hike. If I am not ready, then I just will have to skip it...but that would be a bummer.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I am in NJ, and GSMTR is down in TN, so it's a fairly decent hike. If I am not ready, then I just will have to skip it...but that would be a bummer.

Had to google maps that..... Yep decent trip.

I would highly recommend error on the side of caution.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Today I wanted to tackle my steering box and PS pump clearance issues, so I got busy making a couple of spacers. I made a 3/8" spacer to move the steering box outboard and a 1/4" spacer for the drivers side motor mount.

In preparation for making the steering box spacer I picked up some M12 Grade 10.9 110mm bolts, 10mm longer than the stock 100mm bolts.

This motor mount spacer lifts the motor .25" up, creating the needed clearance for the PS hose.

I went down to my localish hydraulic shop to get 2 PS hoses made up. I ended up using 4000psi high temp (300 degrees) hose.
After putting both spacers in my clearance issues are all fixed.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Taking a break from the diesel conversion on my 97, I spent an afternoon working on my 92. I needed to replace the dead alternator that I had been putting off for a while.

I pulled the air pump and then the dead alternator out...who designed this? that was a PIA.

I then compared the old and new alternator...well that's a problem. Looks like the new one is the 90amp, whereas the old is the 80amp. After a few choice words to myself, I decided to modify the new alternator and make it fit.

I pulled out the grinder and my dremel. Took some material off the rear tab on the alternator so that it will fit. Normally the alternator tabs go on the outside of the block mount, now the front tab is on the outside, but the rear tab is on the inside. Worked out nicely.

Got it all buttoned up, with a steady 14.6V charging the battery...what a pain.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

You have been working on the Cummins too much. Accessories come off so easy. Single drive belt with self tensioner helps too.

 

[Dirty Koala]

You have been working on the Cummins too much. Accessories come off so easy. Single drive belt with self tensioner helps too.

Your right about that. I was staring at that 3FE for 20 mins trying to figure out a way to pull the alternator without pulling the air pump and all the hoses, just can't be done. Oh well, on the brightside I now have a 90amp 3fe

 

[Dirty Koala]

The stock dodge shifter was far too tall, and was hitting the dash or steering wheel (1st gear only) before getting into gear.

I had three objectives, reshape they bend, shorten the throw and lower the bend.

I started out by removing about 5" of the upper shaft, this was the easy part.

Welded back together.

I thought lowering the bend would be much the same, I was wrong. This shaft has a rubber isolator core inside the bottom section. I cut this out completely and welded back together with a short section of DOM that I had left over from my cross member mods.

I was moving pretty fast at this point, and didn't grab any pics of the cleaned up and painted shaft.

With the shaft now installed in the trans, the throw is nice and short, there is about 2.5" clearance between the dash and shifter when in 1st, 3rd & 5th. Also the placement feels very comfortable from the drivers seat.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

The stock dodge shifter was far too tall, and was hitting the dash or steering wheel (1st gear only) before getting into gear.

I had three objectives, reshape they bend, shorten the throw and lower the bend.

I started out by removing about 5" of the upper shaft, this was the easy part.
View attachment 1247412

Welded back together.
View attachment 1247426

I thought lowering the bend would be much the same, I was wrong. This shaft has a rubber isolator core inside the bottom section. I cut this out completely and welded back together with a short section of DOM that I had left over from my cross member mods.
View attachment 1247427

I was moving pretty fast at this point, and didn't grab any pics of the cleaned up and painted shaft.

With the shaft now installed in the trans, the throw is nice and short, there is about 2.5" clearance between the dash and shifter when in 1st, 3rd & 5th. Also the placement feels very comfortable from the drivers seat.
View attachment 1247429

View attachment 1247433

Looks good. I have been debating taking an inch or two out of mine to lower it. What year is the shifter? I thought they were all two piece with the shaft threading into the base?

 

[Dirty Koala]

My motor and trans are from a 97 3500 dually. 1998.5 is when they started using the bolt on shifter cover. You have the newer top, which I have decided, would have been a lot easier than modifying the old style...but I used what I had and it worked out.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I put my accessories and turbo back on, the wastegate to shock tower clearance is tight but not a problem.

I then pulled out the intercooler plumbing and couldn't for the life of me figure out what goes where...I feel like I got tge wrong parts or not all of the parts...will see what Dustin says...if he responds.

Can anyone make sense of this?

 

[gdctaco]

Ya, The longest one goes on the drivers side of the motor, straight from the whole in the cross member/intercooler, the bend and tab bolt onto the engine mount.
The second longest one goes on the longest one to the grid heater/air intake.
the short one goes from the turbo to the crossmember/intercooler.
You might have a problem at the turbo boost elbow they are different sizes on different years, I had to get a 3" to 2.5" reducer for my '96.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Ya, The longest one goes on the drivers side of the motor, straight from the whole in the cross member/intercooler, the bend and tab bolt onto the engine mount.
The second longest one goes on the longest one to the grid heater/air intake.
the short one goes from the turbo to the crossmember/intercooler.
You might have a problem at the turbo boost elbow they are different sizes on different years, I had to get a 3" to 2.5" reducer for my '96.

Thanks for the input. I can see how the short passenger side fits. I will need to clock my compressor outlet down and get a boost elbow. I still can't see how the drivers side pipes fit...I don't suppose you have any pics of yours do you?

 

[Jvoight]

I absolutely remember feeling the same... stare at it long enough and it'll start to make sense... i'll try to share some pics of mine soon

 

[gdctaco]

I tried to get a pic but photobucket sucks.
you should have another piece that bolts to the grid heater an elbow on a square flange.
the longest run of the longest pipe runs along the oil pan gasket seam from the timing cover gasket to the motor mount, the 90 bend goes under the engine mount and bolts to it. the other piece couples to it with a bent hose coupler runs straight up from there and bends just above the fuel filter, short straight connector there to the piece that mounts to the engine.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I tried to get a pic but photobucket sucks.
you should have another piece that bolts to the grid heater an elbow on a square flange.
the longest run of the longest pipe runs along the oil pan gasket seam from the timing cover gasket to the motor mount, the 90 bend goes under the engine mount and bolts to it. the other piece couples to it with a bent hose coupler runs straight up from there and bends just above the fuel filter, short straight connector there to the piece that mounts to the engine.

I sort of figured it out, but the two mounting tabs on the longest pipe do not come close to the engine mount. One bumps against the pan and the other floats around the side of the block.