so about 3 days ago I ran into the problem of having a dirty fuel filter (I am refering to the stock fuel filter on the 3B) and I didn't have access to a new one. The VO run from the tank to a flat plate heat exchanger, HIH, and then to a 3 port valve directly before the primer pump. Obviously my VO is not spick and span clean as I am talking about dirty fuel filters but one of those fancy racor heated filters is just not in the budget right now. So my question is wether or not anyone out there knows how one can clean the stock filter so I can run my truck on VO again, and not sputter and suck in air as oppose to fuel. Does anyone know of an economic reusable filter one can pick up strictly for vegetable oil? thanks!
AltFuel dirty filters
- Thread starter kris_maier
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For a cheap WVO filter, you can get a filter head from Princess Auto for about $12, and the hydraulic filters that fit are about $8 ea. They filter to 25 micron. The filters last about 2-3000 km before changing, depending on how clean the WVO is. I don't know of any filters that can be cleaned and reused. NAPA also supplies these filters, and I can get the part # if you want it.
For a stock filter, I found an oil filter that fits perfectly on my 2H. I know some will say that's very risky to use an oil filter because they have a bypass, and also they don't filter as fine as a fuel filter. However, I buy the NAPA Gold filters which are a high quality filter which filters to 20 microns, and has a "full filter" medium (like a sponge) instead of flat medium (like an air filter). I change the filter about every 1000 km. The oil filter is part # 1348. I buy them for about $6 ea (garage price).
I also use a clear inline prefilter before the WVO filter to catch any larger particles (the same kind used on the older Mercedes diesels).
I've been using this filter setup for over 10000 and have had very little trouble and filter changes are easy. Whenever I have trouble with air, I know my filters are starting to plug up. (or I switched over too early). I also have a vacuum gauge in the WVO line to tell me if the WVO filter is restricted. I always carry an extra filter of eah kind just in case.
For a stock filter, I found an oil filter that fits perfectly on my 2H. I know some will say that's very risky to use an oil filter because they have a bypass, and also they don't filter as fine as a fuel filter. However, I buy the NAPA Gold filters which are a high quality filter which filters to 20 microns, and has a "full filter" medium (like a sponge) instead of flat medium (like an air filter). I change the filter about every 1000 km. The oil filter is part # 1348. I buy them for about $6 ea (garage price).
I also use a clear inline prefilter before the WVO filter to catch any larger particles (the same kind used on the older Mercedes diesels).
I've been using this filter setup for over 10000 and have had very little trouble and filter changes are easy. Whenever I have trouble with air, I know my filters are starting to plug up. (or I switched over too early). I also have a vacuum gauge in the WVO line to tell me if the WVO filter is restricted. I always carry an extra filter of eah kind just in case.
slightly used racor FS!
Hi Kris,
I have a used racor filter with mounting apparatus and a brand new element that is 'extra' for me now and just sitting in my garage. I used this set up sucessfully for about 4k kms and decided to tinker a bit with my set up and went a different way which included a smaller filter set up to make room for a sedimentator. Which is to say there's lots of life left in the slightly used element. The mounting unit and 2 elemnts cost me I believe 160. if I remember correctly.
PM me if you're interested in working out a price we can both live with.
best
Aaron
Hi Kris,
I have a used racor filter with mounting apparatus and a brand new element that is 'extra' for me now and just sitting in my garage. I used this set up sucessfully for about 4k kms and decided to tinker a bit with my set up and went a different way which included a smaller filter set up to make room for a sedimentator. Which is to say there's lots of life left in the slightly used element. The mounting unit and 2 elemnts cost me I believe 160. if I remember correctly.
PM me if you're interested in working out a price we can both live with.
best
Aaron
I am not sure what amount or what percentage of bio-diesel you are running in your vehicle but are you aware that bio-diesel by nature is somewhat of a "solvent." The fact that it is a solvent means it will clean a lot of the "goop" out of your fuel system which of course goes into the fuel filter. The good news is that this cleaning process is usually complete after burning the second tank or so and at that point you should have a normal fuel filter life. ( assuming you are burning a good quality fuel.)
Hope that helps.........1978HJ45
Hope that helps.........1978HJ45
I think if you were running a WVO set up, the best thing to do is have a really good pre filter setup. I think you would go through filters a less.
gotta agree with "forealboreal " improve your prefilter system and at a minimum use the princess auto water block filter . i have a couple of non heated raycor filters sitting around from a marine swap so if your interested i can cut a deal . filters for them are about 5 bucks and are sold @ most marine stores . just wrap a heater hose around it and voila heated . are you running a second tank for your veggie ? if so i can make you a not fox fuel pre heater for your tank ?? lots of cheap options .
start with de watering and filtering the oil and as fine as you can before you get it in your tank . as for the oem filter i buy mine @ partsource for 5 bucks ! not worth cleaning it just change it .
there are many ways of doing this stuff on the cheap the hard part is knowing when it is wiser to spend your money !
example i have down and dirty manual ball valves under my hood so i have to pull over and stop ,switch tanks and proceed and the same long before i stop to purge . where as a 3 way solenoid valve is not crazy expensive and very convenient . however a year later and i still run my manual valve . not smart !
just my 2 cents
mike ,moose
start with de watering and filtering the oil and as fine as you can before you get it in your tank . as for the oem filter i buy mine @ partsource for 5 bucks ! not worth cleaning it just change it .
there are many ways of doing this stuff on the cheap the hard part is knowing when it is wiser to spend your money !
example i have down and dirty manual ball valves under my hood so i have to pull over and stop ,switch tanks and proceed and the same long before i stop to purge . where as a 3 way solenoid valve is not crazy expensive and very convenient . however a year later and i still run my manual valve . not smart !
just my 2 cents
mike ,moose
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